front axle relaocation on ln106 lux

[Luv to 4B]

i have a 4" lifted lux and find at full stuff my 33's scrub on the guard where the mud flap screws into the guard on the front. To stop this and in order to put 35's on without a body lift i want to move the front axle forward, so question time.

1) There is no room left between the drag link and the spring U bolt so snake plates are out. Therefore should i drill through the spring pack and make a new centre bolt hole or drill through the spring perch to move axle forward.

2) did people cut and shorten the drag link or did not need to.

My tale shaft has already been extended and i expect having to shorten the torque rod. Any suggestions would be welcome.

[STUMPY]

it gets tricky to move the diff forward with the factory steering setup. i wouldn't cut and weld the drag link because it is cast. if you cant justify going to cross over steering i would just do a body lift. by moving the diff forward the way it is now, you would have to buy an adjustable draglink ($300) and an adjustable torque rod or cut and shorten your one. i personally wouldn't do this because you still have the dodgy steering set-up. i would do a body lift to clear the rubber, then save for cross over steer. cross over is heap better. you can move the diff forward, without effecting the steering, can afford to run more flex with snapping the j-arm.
my 2cents

cheers joel

[Slayer]

just did this yesterday, took about 3 hours total.. i got an ajustable drag link so that made the steerin easy..
without an ajustable draglink you will end up with out of centre steering the wheels will move left as u move the diff closer to the pitman.. i put a wanted add in about 3 weeks ago and got my drag link for 90 bucks.. try your luck..

i cut sleeved and wewelded the diff locator to the right size, and i just re drilled the spring perches to move the diff forward.. i went 30mm

only thing other thingi didnt realise untill it came up, u have to re drill the rubber bumpstops that sit on top so they go in the right place again and its all sweet

i found just taking the shackles off the rear of the leaf was enough to twist it outa the way and get a drill in there.

as for the front shaft i already had mine extended, but now its to short again damnit.. a 25 mm sapacer from snake will fix this...

imho redrilling the springpack is prob a better idea in the long run, but im satisfied with the perches thing, everythin still looks normal sept my shocks take a bit of an angle now.

drillin the spring pack will be alot more time consuming and the heat can harm the springs..

anyways give the perches thing a go u can always change it bak if your not happy

[Da Lux]

ive got my centre pin hole on tha main leaf forward an inch and the spring perch drilled back 16mm, seems fine. i am gettin x ova, but i ordered it over 3 months ago and its still not here, and ive got the ajd. drag link and diff locator that u will need, but tha last guy i know that ordered x ova had to wait 7 months so dont wait for me

[+dj_hansen+]

drillin the spring pack will be alot more time consuming and the heat can harm the springs..

Ever tried drilling spring steel? not a wise option if you dont have much knowledge/skills on machining etc, as you will/can also destroy allot of drill bits in the process...

[My Lil Lux]

I've got standard lux rears in front and have moved front mounts forward also about 2", Snake adjustable draglink is still not short enough for this which is why I've gone X-Over, If you have to do it on a budget check out this X-over arm, http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... category=4 Got mine today, ordered on friday and was here next business day, looks pretty good.
My Snake draglink will be available soon, but it has been bent, as has everything else from them.

Body lift will be much cheaper, or get the grinder to the guards

[80UTE]

it gets tricky to move the diff forward with the factory steering setup. i wouldn't cut and weld the drag link because it is cast. if you cant justify going to cross over steering i would just do a body lift. by moving the diff forward the way it is now, you would have to buy an adjustable draglink ($300) and an adjustable torque rod or cut and shorten your one. i personally wouldn't do this because you still have the dodgy steering set-up. i would do a body lift to clear the rubber, then save for cross over steer. cross over is heap better. you can move the diff forward, without effecting the steering, can afford to run more flex with snapping the j-arm.
my 2cents

cheers joel

Ive cut and modified hilux drag links with no problems as the made from Forged steel not cast so they can be modded. Ive also made up adjustable one using 75 series cruser drag link ends and some drilled and tapped 4140 solid bar with the 21x1.5 LH and RH treads so it adjustable as well. There is a few options available with out going to x-over.

Wally

[benno_from_brizvegas]

welded steering components are bad, mmmmkay?

I run 33's with stock springs and no rubbing, diff 30 mm forward...

Draglink was modded at an engineering shop, they cut and threaded it, and threaded some high grade steel to suit and fitted lock nuts... it's all good. (touch wood/head)

for a 4 inch lift though, the superior arm *might* be short enough. I don't really know how you'd go with a straight draglink on a 4 inch lifted lux.