CIG lockers

Post by **munga** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 1:18 pm

re: CIG locker in the front with an open diff in the back.

I know tis an old question, and ive read all the pages for and against it (sit down search nazi!), but i want to hear from anyone whos fitted a welded front and is running an open rear on their daily driver.

would this be a better setup than a welded rear/open front arrangement (i have a nt tintop on 28s)?

am i opening myself up for cv busting hell with a locked front/open rear?

is it awfully heavy or just inconveniently heavy to steer (remember im on 215/75 muddies)?
i do a bit of mud, dirt trails and a bit of rocky hillclimbing stuff (nothing hardcore, 50% chicken tracks) as you would find at rover pk etc. not interested in beachwork.

Post by **muppet_man67** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 1:28 pm

on a shorty zook I dont think a front locker would be as effective as a rear. when clibing up steep tracks there tends not to be much weight over the front wheels.

Post by **MY45** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 2:58 pm

munga wrote:re: CIG locker in the front with an open diff in the back.

I know tis an old question, and ive read all the pages for and against it (sit down search nazi!), but i want to hear from anyone whos fitted a welded front and is running an open rear on their daily driver.

would this be a better setup than a welded rear/open front arrangement (i have a nt tintop on 28s)?

am i opening myself up for cv busting hell with a locked front/open rear?

is it awfully heavy or just inconveniently heavy to steer (remember im on 215/75 muddies)?
i do a bit of mud, dirt trails and a bit of rocky hillclimbing stuff (nothing hardcore, 50% chicken tracks) as you would find at rover pk etc. not interested in beachwork.

Munga this way u will bust cv's as they will be put under alot more stress and not have any stress removed by the rear as it will be open...just weld the rear and be happy, then if u want more weld the front

Post by **CHOPZUKI** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:44 pm

ive got a complete cig locked front diff in my shed doin nothing

$100 if anyones interested, if you dont like it use it for spares

Post by **nicbeer** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:17 pm

What ratio is the centre.

cheers

Post by **CHOPZUKI** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:22 pm

Post by **RB zook** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:42 pm

the front locker will get you furter most times provided you have the strength in the front diff

weld the rear first

Post by **Toj0** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 9:50 am

I ran this setup prior to my Toy diff swap, for two years on my coily. Never broke a CV, axle r&p. Was very happy with it and was competing in Logan challenge etc. Used to just lock it and leave it when out on the tracks, didn't have an issue with the greater turning circle. I was running 30's at the time.

I always had a spare open centre if I ever got anoyed with the setup, but never put it back in. My 2c.

I did eventually fit an air locker to the rear as well for the comp stuff but I think you'll be very happy with only a front.

Post by **munga** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 10:19 am

I've added a poll for the lazy ppl.

Post by **roc box** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 12:23 pm

ive still got the 1ltr diffs in mine,both are welded have only broken 2 cvs in 2 years running 32s.i dont baby it,i think the zook cvs are a little bit stronger than everyone gives them credit for.in my opinion if i had to choose one to lock it would be the front,having seen rbs zook with front only locked it worked quite well,if it were mine id lock both

just my opinions hope it helps

Post by **munga** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 1:28 pm

well i bought another front centre, and a rear. if i weld them both up, i might have to try each setup, then both together, and see for myself. my main concern was the steering effort and the cv's.
nobodys mentiond steering effort so either youre all gorillas or its not an issue.
and coily drivers are saying theres no issue with cv's unless youre a twit.
if i end up locking the rear, maybe for a daily driver a rear lockrite might be cheaper than a rear cig locker...(tyres tyres tyres) or maybe i should weld the rear and buy a set of 4 used road tyres with the money id have spent on a lockrite... soft springs + rain + rear cig = phear!
2 welded diffs could be a pita if im carrying 2 centres around every weekend away... decisions decisions. damn now im gunna need a box for 20kg of centres..
thanks for your input guys

Post by **MY45** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 3:56 pm

munga wrote:well i bought another front centre, and a rear. if i weld them both up, i might have to try each setup, then both together, and see for myself. my main concern was the steering effort and the cv's.
nobodys mentiond steering effort so either youre all gorillas or its not an issue.
and coily drivers are saying theres no issue with cv's unless youre a twit.
if i end up locking the rear, maybe for a daily driver a rear lockrite might be cheaper than a rear cig locker...(tyres tyres tyres) or maybe i should weld the rear and buy a set of 4 used road tyres with the money id have spent on a lockrite... soft springs + rain + rear cig = phear!
2 welded diffs could be a pita if im carrying 2 centres around every weekend away... decisions decisions. damn now im gunna need a box for 20kg of centres..
thanks for your input guys

Its all crap about having locked in the rain.....dont drive like a dick, stomping it around corners or round-abouts and its fine. Just like you dont flog a lifted 4b around corners as much as a std one

Post by **droopypete** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 4:18 pm

I drove for years with a welded rear, rain hail or shine, it is very predictable what it will do, there are no suprizes,
tyre wear on a light car like a zook is bugger all, and you can only notice it at low speeds.
Go the welded rear while you save for an air locker.
Peter.

Post by **germo** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 4:51 pm

had a welded front in my stocker, with 30's. found it made offroad so much easier and comfortable, due to the fact I could now crawl things and not have to jump ruts and the like, because of the fact that it only took 2 wheel to be off the ground or not enough wieght on them to be stopped. does this make sense?

steering was a bit heavier, but it more than doubed the placed I could get.

but I found learning to 4wd in a stocker and open diffs was awesome, because I had to learn to place the car to get it where I wanted to be, rather than just expecting it (modified rig) to go up something.

with that experience and now a modded car I just think it makes people better drivers.

my 2c
enjoy ashley

oh and just weld it all up, then get lockers.

Post by **JrZook** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:54 pm

How much will it kill ur turning radius?? Zuks are great cause of the small area is takes. Suppose really depends on what the general sorta driving is done. Cig front betta for on road as the front is disingauged no extra wear on tyres, cig rear for offroad since most of the weight is on the rear tyres thus more effective.

Post by **RB zook** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 9:32 pm

JrZook wrote:How much will it kill ur turning radius?? Zuks are great cause of the small area is takes. Suppose really depends on what the general sorta driving is done. Cig front betta for on road as the front is disingauged no extra wear on tyres, cig rear for offroad since most of the weight is on the rear tyres thus more effective.

i find that being locked only in the front is far more effective than being rear locked only

i ran both configgurations for some time and id say 95% of the time the front worked better for me.

now both welded

the turning radious isnt greatly affected its just you cant turn the steering wheel as quick from lock to lock

Post by **crow** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 9:27 am

RB zook wrote:
i find that being locked only in the front is far more effective than being rear locked only

agreed!

seems poeple that haven't had a front welded or locker are voting against it.

Post by **alien** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 9:59 am

i voted on front locked... my way of viewing it is to try pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill, then try pulling it up a hill... and like others said - in 2wd youd never notice it was there.

Post by **droopypete** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 2:10 pm

alien wrote:i voted on front locked... my way of viewing it is to try pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill, then try pulling it up a hill... and like others said - in 2wd youd never notice it was there.

I am unsure what you are trying to say

let me try and translate what you are saying,

if you are pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill,
then the driving wheels (you) are at the back.

if you are pulling a wheelbarrow up a hill then the driving wheels (you) are at the front.

are you saying that it is easier to pull a barrow up a hill than to push it?
Peter

Post by **Tiny** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 2:13 pm

droopypete wrote:
alien wrote:i voted on front locked... my way of viewing it is to try pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill, then try pulling it up a hill... and like others said - in 2wd youd never notice it was there.
I am unsure what you are trying to say

let me try and translate what you are saying,

if you are pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill,
then the driving wheels (you) are at the back.

if you are pulling a wheelbarrow up a hill then the driving wheels (you) are at the front.

are you saying that it is easier to pull a barrow up a hill than to push it?
Peter

I think so, but your feet have less grip pulling as when you puch you have the weight on the rear keeping beter contact and therefore more traction......it also help if you have size 17 boots like me .....or 37" tyres

Post by **Guy** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 2:19 pm

droopypete wrote:
alien wrote:i voted on front locked... my way of viewing it is to try pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill, then try pulling it up a hill... and like others said - in 2wd youd never notice it was there.
I am unsure what you are trying to say

let me try and translate what you are saying,

if you are pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill,
then the driving wheels (you) are at the back.

if you are pulling a wheelbarrow up a hill then the driving wheels (you) are at the front.

are you saying that it is easier to pull a barrow up a hill than to push it?
Peter

I read it as easier to pull other than push ...

Post by **Tiny** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 2:21 pm

love_mud wrote:
droopypete wrote:
alien wrote:i voted on front locked... my way of viewing it is to try pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill, then try pulling it up a hill... and like others said - in 2wd youd never notice it was there.
I am unsure what you are trying to say

let me try and translate what you are saying,

if you are pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill,
then the driving wheels (you) are at the back.

if you are pulling a wheelbarrow up a hill then the driving wheels (you) are at the front.

are you saying that it is easier to pull a barrow up a hill than to push it?
Peter
I read it as easier to pull other than push ...

yes but IMO less traction

Post by **Guy** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:05 pm

Tiny wrote:
love_mud wrote:
droopypete wrote:
alien wrote:i voted on front locked... my way of viewing it is to try pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill, then try pulling it up a hill... and like others said - in 2wd youd never notice it was there.
I am unsure what you are trying to say

let me try and translate what you are saying,

if you are pushing a wheelbarrow up a hill,
then the driving wheels (you) are at the back.

if you are pulling a wheelbarrow up a hill then the driving wheels (you) are at the front.

are you saying that it is easier to pull a barrow up a hill than to push it?
Peter
I read it as easier to pull other than push ...
yes but IMO less traction

I agree as well I would go a rear locker before a front ..(spool\auto locker rear airlocker front) but thats not how I read alien's post ..

Post by **Toj0** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:11 pm

Agreed, when going up a hill there is more weight on the rear, and therefore a locker in the rear is probably better in that situation. Thankfully my zook goes anywhere, not just up hills. Overall, taking into consideration, mud, sand lots of rock and hills, I think (my opinion only) that the pulling from the front is better than the push I get from a rear locker (given the choise of only 1, i'd go front). As an added bonus, it's not there when I'm in 2wd.

Oh - and it deffinately helps to pull you over the lip when your rear start to slip.

Post by **roc box** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:24 pm

i found after i locked the front it settled the car more ie less tendacy to want to hoist the front diagonally.

Post by **zookwithdreams** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:42 pm

I'm a little confused i think ppl are saying that a welded front only effects the driving/handling when it is in 4wd so there would be no differance on the road when it is being used as a daily driver but when you lock the hubs in offroad you get the advantage

welding the back would effect the onroad handeling and tyre life (possibly negligible) and according to people who seem to have both done at differant stages would only differ slightly to the advantage it would give offroad possibly worse

don't know if all my assumptions are correct and i am considering everything but if so i think it is clear which one would be better

Post by **munga** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:54 pm

thanks for the summary z-w-d, i think you managed to shut this thread down with that one.

i have a front locker sitting here btw..

all the people who think im a jackass for getting a front locker can wave when im staring at my broken cv's, but its ok, coz my mate dibbz said he would always be there to tow me out with his 60

Post by **zookwithdreams** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 3:44 pm

I have almost decided to weld the front in my coily after this topic but want to have a spare as a back up. Does any one have one laying around that they want to sell or can anyone tell me if these centres are the same as the nt 's or can ppl tell me what i should be paying for one

Post by **sierrajim** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 3:52 pm

stop typing and just weld it

Post by **ljxtreem** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:00 pm

yeah, and weld the back while your at it

Mock

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

CIG lockers

which would you go for in a 1lt tintop?

CIG lockers

Re: CIG lockers

Who is online