60 series Problem:(

[BJH]

Hey all! I have an old 60 series cruiser that busted a alternator fanbelt the other weekend. i was luck enough to have an old spare and installed that and was on my way. although after this happened i have been hearing a wouring noise at highish rev's and only when its under load. i drove like this for a couple of days and then decided to get a couple of new belts. installed these and the noise is still there:( its the 2h diesel motor and has only done 155thou. i am lost as to what is wrong it was only a fanblelt that went! i did have to turn the motor over a couple of turns to get rid of striped bits of belt in other pullies but that worked well. if anyone can give me an idea please speak up!!!

cheers
Brandon.

[dumbdunce]

have you over-tightened the belts causing excessive load on the water pump or alternator bearings?

if you take the belts off again and run the motor does the noise go away or does it stay? is it possible there is some remains of the old broken belt stuck behind the water pump or alternator pulleys?

[carts]

A simple start. Are the belts tensioned enough? They aren't slipping are they?

On the 2h, the belt that goes around the alternator is also the main drive belt for the water pump/ clutch fan. Under load at high revs the clutch fan cuts in and requires a lot of effort from the belt to turn it at high rpm. If the belt isn't quite tight enough, it will squeal.

Next thing is, are the bearings in the alternator and water pump in reasonable condition? Is there any movement in the shaft for the alternator or water pump? Could you have over tightened the belts and damaged the bearings?

[BJH]

I checked for bits of belt around and in the pullies, nothing. i would have tested without the belts on but the noise dosn't happen till the truck is driving. its isn't slipping its a werring noise, and it only happens at the top of each gear or (being a 4spd) around 80k but then softens till 100 and it starts again. What i first thought of after hearingthe noise was is the clutch in the fan gone? its hard to explain guys sorry:( thanks heaps for the info though, i wanta get up the beach this long weekend if i can sus it out!! When i have reved the motor when in idle i did notice that the power steering belt has a bit of flex between the pullies but i couldnt get it slipping and its quite tight.

[sambo]

If my power steering belt it not quite tight enough it will make the noise just as you described.

It will also make that noise if there is an air bubble in the power steering system. Check your powersteering fluid level and see how you go.

If you are not sure if it is a slipping belt, rather than just over tighten each belt, spray on some of that belt grip (only about $10 from shops), temporary solution but will help.

[BJH]

Thanks for that info Sambo!! i am actually having problems with my power steering system:( its been leaking for some time now, i have just been topping it up, not looking forward to the expencive repair cost of the pump. i did fill it up the other day so that shouldn't be a problem but the belt does move a bit, it could be that its loose and maybe making that noise when slipping at high revs? i am use to belts making a high pitch squelling noise rether than a werring sorta noise. will let you know how i go though!! (PS: Sambo, what beach did you sink your cruiser? that looks like it would be near imposssable to get out!!!)\

Cheers
Brandon.

[brighty]

Dude, I just had my pump and box reco'd in my 60.

Pump-$300
Box-$600 .... BUT, If it's really bad.. which mine fortunately wasn't, it might need a FULL rebuild (internal mechanicals), and can cost anywhere up to the $1500+ mark

Just thought that'd give you an idea of prices.

I did buy a re-seal kit for the pump a month or so ago, only $40ish. So if your pump is leaking and you just want a quick fix for the leaking prob. It's not a hard job to do the main seal and O rings in it, the biggest prob is getting the pump out of the car itself!!! Might help to have a rattle gun to undo the main pulley though, or a mate that can do that for ya!!! Just be careful not to pinch or nick the O rings when fitting them.

Have fun with it!!

[BJH]

Sounds like its going to be fun i haven't given it any attention for hte last few days, been busy with work and other things, i might just top her up over the next weekend and then look at it next week sometime. i did the water pump awhile ago with some help, do you think the reseal kit for the power steering box will be as hard, harder or easier? my bigest problem will probablly be getting bolts undone without ripping the heads off them! unfortunally the old girl has a bit of rust through her

Thanks heaps for the info and ideas people!!!!!!!!!!!! i really apprciate the help!! I just wish i could spend more of my time on this site

one more thing does anyone know a good cheap gararge on the north side of Brisbane that i could trust my truck to? i have been doing everything on her myself till now (3 years), but i don't want to take it to ARB as they tend to charge a bit too much for my budget!!! (I do know they usually do a great job though).
Cheers
Brandon..

[brighty]

Hey Brandon,
The pump aint that hard to do a re-seal on it.

1. Soak all bolts in Inox/WD40 etc for a few days, do this a couple of times to make sure it gets in the threads. (as you said your truck is a bit rusty, this will help alot in removal of hard bolts/less snappage!! Trust me, you don't want to do that!!!)

2. Undo and drain the fluid from the lines into suitable container. This can get a bit messy, so you might want to put some newspaper or the like down to make cleaning up easier.

3. Loosen the adjuster pulley so the belt can be removed.

4. Undo all the bolts holding the pump in place, and remove pump from car.

5. Use a rattle gun to undo the main pulley nut. If you don't have one, your mate/local work shop should help you out for nothing as it only takes 30 secs to get it done.

6. Mark or take digital pic of the front of the pump so as you know which way to line the adjuster pulley bracket and front housing when putting it all back together.

7. Remove adjuster pulley bracket.

8. Get a screwdriver/pliers and remove the main pulley locating tab on the main shaft

9. Carefully remove the 5 or 6 bolts (these have small O rings on them that will be replaced) that hold the front housing on (behind here is alot of springs and things, so keep it facing up and don't go crazy on it.... just be gentle and they should all stay put. You might need a "small" hammer to "tap" it off)

10. On this housing, there will be the main seal at the front, this is the one that tends to go!!! And a larger O ring on the inside. These will have to be replaced also.

** There is a few other small O ring seals in the pump too but I'm yet to do them as they weren't leaking and I needed to get it back in the car asap to get on the road again.

When reassembling, do in the reverse order and be careful not to pinch or nick any of the O rings or seals.

If you need any pics when doing this, just msg me and I can get them up pretty much straight away.

I may have missed a few things to look out for, so if any of you professionals out there want to add to that, by all means go ahead. This is only from 'having a go' on my own truck!!

Hope that helps you out,

Cheers,
Brighty.

[BJH]

Thanks Brighty!! i will give that a go latter in the week. did you get your seal kit from Repco or somewhere? i have seen them on Ebay for around 120 but you said that you paid about 40 for them??

Thaks heaps to all for the help, as soon as i get the chance i will give it a go and take some photo's (for remembering and posting if i find something weird!!

cheers
Brandon.

[joel HJ60]

is inox better than wd40?

[brighty]

Thanks Brighty!! i will give that a go latter in the week. did you get your seal kit from Repco or somewhere? i have seen them on Ebay for around 120 but you said that you paid about 40 for them??

Thaks heaps to all for the help, as soon as i get the chance i will give it a go and take some photo's (for remembering and posting if i find something weird!!

cheers
Brandon.

That kit could be a full rebuild kit... mine was just a re-seal kit. Not sure if there is any difference but there may be more parts in the one you seen.

I got mine from,

ATP or Gerry Wobbles Automotive
Gateshead, Newcastle NSW
Ph 02 4943 6999

If you speak to Dale, he should be able to help you out and is really easy to get along with. I couldn't imagine there being any probs if you wanted it posted up there to you.

goodluck.