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painting?

General Tech Talk

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painting?

Post by 45punkbus »

hey guys i was thinking of doing a DIY respray, i have seen the results of rustgaurd paint, i no its a fair cheap way to do it, but turned out pretty good, i was just wondering what is the best sort of paint to use that does not require it to be baked on?

cheers

Dean
Holden or laxatives? I pick laxatives, at least I'm guaranteed the sh*ts gonna run !!!

parting out mk patrol
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1043971#1043971
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Post by Tiny »

an acrylic should be fine, heathx4??? did his MQ in blue rustgaurd a couple of months ago, looked pretty good in the flesh other wise go to the local auto pain shop or panel beater and they can sugest a good brand and mix up a colour for you
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
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Post by pcman »

stuff the paint get a locker first or maby a transfer case lol
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Post by Eddy »

I used wattyl rustguard paint on my fj45 and my daughter's corolla about four years ago. It's good for about three years I'd reckon :?
I'm thinking that the White Knight gear may be a little better.....
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Post by bj42turbo »

;) In marine blue :armsup:


Image
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Post by smac »

just do what Roothie from 4WD monthly does - use House Paint !!!!
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all that shit i havn"t picked up yet

Post by blackmav »

For best results, Rust guard then Air dry at 60km/h :D :D
Short GQ, Petrol, Turbo.
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Post by big bundy »

i used that white knight rust gaurd for my boat, its bloody awsome stuff, and the paints still shining away :armsup: this was the first thing i had spray painted and didn't get 1 run, it is shit hot :armsup:
bundy's suck ass
LWB patrol's are where its at!
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Post by mickyd555 »

wasnt there a thread on painting cars the other day. everyone in that one said use 2 pac polyurethene paint i think it was called. where are they now............... which paint should i be using.....
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Post by jtraf »

I use a 2pak paint with a fast drying hardener.....
Can be bought in any color you want for not a lot of money when you consider how long it will last.

My MK was redone in Motospray 2pak and it shined straight off the gun....still shined then same way 2 years later and didn't chip or mark heavily when used in the bush.....

a quick cut and polish would have it shining easy.....

for an easy paint to use that sticks to everything don't go past 2pak...

I did mine in the garage on a warmish day....20 degrees or so and it was air dryed...yes there were some bugs and a little bit of dust but these came off with a little buff compand....

All up sot me $250 in paint.......$99 for a 2pak Hifill from Paint Spot
and $150 for 3lt's of snow white with hardeners..

The only thing I say is preperation is the key......
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Post by munga »

oi lemmah

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=45802

third page of this very forum.

search ffs. i know youre not new, just lazy.

why doesnt someone ask about bfg muddies v's mt/r's next week.
im sure thats never been discussed either.
ht zook with bog, rust and mt's

this is my wheelbase |<-------->|
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Post by bad_religion_au »

munga wrote:oi lemmah
english would be a prerequeset for effective communication.

can someone translate this?
Spit my last breath
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Post by munga »

its prerequisite, lemmah!
ht zook with bog, rust and mt's

this is my wheelbase |<-------->|
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Post by bad_religion_au »

munga wrote:its prerequisite, lemmah!
indeed it would be... so you wanna translate?
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Post by the_smoo »

I used killrust ocean on mine.. come up a treat.. about 80 bucks worth of paint..

Only problem with it is its an enamel and takes shit load of time to dry.. so you are better off doing the rig all in one hit..

and you need a nice big garage to do it in.. Not a show room finish but good enough IMHO...
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now in Perth
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Post by bad_religion_au »

are they wrangler flairs on that the_smoo?
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Post by the_smoo »

Nah fibreglass TJM jobs for 40's...
now in Perth
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fsdafsdafas

Post by SiKiD_01 »

i used automotive enamel with a quick drying hardener added.

i got this from protec, not sure if u guys know of it.

i took my vit apart in my driveway, sanded, washed, and then air gunned it on. i didnt use primer under, but it wasnt bare metal anyway.

i didnt put a clear coat on, mainly cos i had a mind set that i could touch it up anytime i wanted if i had a brush with anything, and it turned out way better than i thought it would, and had a gloss finish anyway.

when i had to trim my guards to fit 31"s, the paint was actually stuck on quite good, and if it did come off, i had to snap flakes off, it was that hard.

great for bush.
1995 Vitara:
stock standard


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Post by the_smoo »

thats the ticket SiKiD.. why pay good money for something thats only gonna get scratched and shite...

pop down to bunnings for some touch up paint... australia wide network :D
now in Perth
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fdafds

Post by SiKiD_01 »

sometimes my vits gets jammed between a couple of trees on the quad tracks up here, but none of the trees seem to be able to get through the paint. like it doesnt gouge or anything, it just leaves a streak sota thing, not really a scratch.

and if anything, that panel just gets dented, but the paint still sticks.

great stuff i reckon.

put 2 or 3 coats if u really want.
1995 Vitara:
stock standard


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Post by bj42turbo »

the_smoo wrote:thats the ticket SiKiD.. why pay good money for something thats only gonna get scratched and shite...

pop down to bunnings for some touch up paint... australia wide network :D
exactly
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Post by mico »

trust me find a good quality acrylic laquer, some thinners. Sand your truck with 400-600 wet and dry thin the paint out 50-60% give it 5-6 good coats, let it sit for a couple of days cut it with 1200 wet and dry (use plenty of soapy water) than get hold of a buff or variable speed grinder (something that will go down to about 1500-2000 rpm) use a lambs wool pad, a good cutting compound (3M or autoglym etc) for acrylic and a squerty bottle. Using the buff at low speed with a little bit of compound and some water and not much pressure you should be able to get an awsome finish and if you burn it you can sand it recoat it let it dry then try again. It's also very easy to touch up (you can blend it and buff it very easy). I think this would be your best option as it's cheap, easy to use and you can't stuff it up. And if it dulls off all you have to do is buff it lightly, it will also last for years if you look after it (wash and polish every now and then)

2pak paints are great in a spraybooth but you will never get a good finish in a shed (dust bugs temperature etc)and its slow to dry, acrylic should be touch dry in about 30 minutes.

Cheap paints WILL NOT LAST.

p.s. i have been a painter for years and have seen the results of some home attempts and it ain't pretty just quietly> take your time and it'll be ok but use good quality products
if it ain't broke send it to me i'll fix it!
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