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80 series brake improvements.

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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80 series brake improvements.

Post by bruiser »

Would like to improve brake performance on the 80.

Remember someone saying you can fit larger 100 series pads to an 80.
Is this true?

What else can be done to compensate for the braking loss's due to the 35's
any ideas appreciated.
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Post by Tiny »

I think dow50r has done this, give him a PM
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Post by +dj_hansen+ »

Braided steel break lines...?
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Post by shanegtr »

+dj_hansen+ wrote:Braided steel break lines...?
dont think that will imporve performce of the brakes. Just make a better pedel feel because the lines will no longer expand under pressure
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Post by bruiser »

+dj hansen.
Do you say this cause you have heard of it or you have personally experienced an improvement with this mod.


Will braided steel brake lines improve performance? Anyone?
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Post by beanz2 »

The 100 series brake pads are larger, thus offering more fade resistance. Clamping power is unchanged as it is mainly a function of caliper piston size vs. brake master cylinder ratio. Below is a pic to show the difference is size. I've heard the 100 series pads can also be trimmed to fit the later Hilux and 75 series calipers but I haven't tried it myself.

I've used steel braided lines in place of rubber lines in a Ford Mustang. The pedal feels much more solid. Would it necessarily help 100 to 0 times, I don't know.

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Post by shanegtr »

So can the 100 series pads fit into all 80 series calipers. The surface area is heaps larger
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Post by GoTheLux »

The braided lines will help as was said the rubber lines expand therefore reducing pressure, no expansion more force can be applied to the pistons. The older the rubber lines are the more give they will have in them.
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Post by bruiser »

This is great info guys!

Where is the best place to get braided lines, how much are they and how hard is it to install.


Also as above, are you saying the 100s pads will fit directly in 80 or the have to be trimed as shown.

Thanks
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Post by bruiser »

Also, does the brand / type of pad make any difference to braking performance.

I was once told that cheaper pads are the best as they are softer therefore griping better and not wearing the rotor out as quick.
and that the expensive ones are harder, don't work as well but last heaps longer.

Bullshit or not?
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Post by dow50r »

Gday
Ive done the 100 pads in the 80, and straight away, when i put the foot on the pedal, the car stopped 6 metres short f where it would have 10 minutes earlier....more swept area by the pads...better stopping power...now they fit straight in the front of 8/92-98 models...if you have earlier, dont cut the pads up, but get the later discs, backing plates and callipers...and bolt them on. U still have no problems with 15 inch wheels...its when you change the rears that u get these issues...
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Post by arfaname »

mine being a 94 model should be able to take the standard 100 series pads ?? Is that what your saying? Hope so cos my brakes suck arse. Also how can I improve the handbrake?
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Post by 80diesel4play »

arfaname wrote:. Also how can I improve the handbrake?
Bolt a nissan setup on??? 80 handbrakes were designed by thoughtless bastards who never figureed on being in mud/water over rim height... :?

They SUCK!! Mine is more for show!!! stoopid!!!! Grrrrrrrrrrr :D
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Post by dumbdunce »

80diesel4play wrote:
arfaname wrote:. Also how can I improve the handbrake?
Bolt a nissan setup on??? 80 handbrakes were designed by thoughtless bastards who never figureed on being in mud/water over rim height... :?

They SUCK!! Mine is more for show!!! stoopid!!!! Grrrrrrrrrrr :D
driving in water is not a problem foir the handbrake, but mud can be, especially if you apply the handbrake while there is mud in the drum. the 80 handbrake is much maligned and misunderstood, but properly adjusted and maintained it holds quite well. While the Nissan setup has some advantages - it is higher off ther deck, it has the advantage of the diff ratio working for it, the cable is short - it also has the significant disadvantage off-road of only working on one wheel - the wheel with least traction. ie if you have a wheel of soft mud or a wheel in the air, you effectively have no handbrake unless you also have a diff lock.


as for the regular braking peformance of an 80, the 100s pads do make a difference, but compared to just about any other 4WD of similar vintage, the 80s brakes are unbelievably good, and if you feel that your braking performance is poor, it may well be that your braking system needs attention. Make sure everything is in absolutely tip-top shape - all soft lines (there's at least 6 of them), calipers, master cylinder, and fluid - because brake performance deteriorates so slowly over time, we tend not to notice until it's almost too late.

cheers

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Post by shanegtr »

I have just found out the 100 pads are 2.5mm thicker. dow50r are the pads a tight squeeze or do they go in easily
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Post by dumbdunce »

shanegtr wrote:I have just found out the 100 pads are 2.5mm thicker. dow50r are the pads a tight squeeze or do they go in easily
on new rotors it is very tight, you will need to ditch the anti-squeal shims. they aren't big squealers anyway.
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Post by Shadow »

rubber brake lines do not reduce the pressure applied to the brake calipers, thgey just mean you have to push the pedal a little further and the pedal will feel a little spoungier than with braided steel lines.

I very much doubt they would have any affect on stopping distance, since in either case the calipers will still experience the same pressure.
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Post by bruiser »

Do specially vented rotors improve braking performance?
& Does the quality / brand of pads make any difference
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Post by Shadow »

bruiser wrote:Do specially vented rotors improve braking performance?
& Does the quality / brand of pads make any difference
Vented brakes cool better thus making them less susceptable to fade due to heat.

they probably wont imporve the performance of one application of the brakes (theyre cool anyway), but repeated brake use they wont fade as early/much as solid rotors.

There are different brake pad materials that will work better or last longer. Its a compromise between pad life and performance. Obviously if you can lock your wheels your pads are good enough, if you cant you may consider a different set of brake pads (that wont last as long).
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Post by slowhilux »

was at the brake place today, do i need 100 series or 105 series front pads for the upgrade? They are 2 different part numbers in the application books. Will be putting new slotted rotors and 100/105 series pads in next week, should improve braking quite a bit :)
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Post by 80UTE »

Ive been running soft organic pads for years to get more life from the disc's but in my 80 that only does wheelin with lots of mud i was getting about 1500 km's from a set of pads which i believe is mainly due to the mud chewing the pads away and it wouldn't stop to well with 38's either, OK untill the pads were impregnated with dirt and grit. I recently fitted all new rotor's and metal pads this time, read the instructions on bedding the pads in and im amazed how much better the brakes have been and even after going through heaps of bogs it still stopping great. As for disc rotor wear i will know eventually thou even if the metal pads wear the disc's its worth it as the brakes are working. New rotors are so cheap nowadays if they need to be replaced every 2-3 pad changes big deal as i have good brakes.

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Post by Shadow »

80UTE wrote:Ive been running soft organic pads for years to get more life from the disc's but in my 80 that only does wheelin with lots of mud i was getting about 1500 km's from a set of pads which i believe is mainly due to the mud chewing the pads away and it wouldn't stop to well with 38's either, OK untill the pads were impregnated with dirt and grit. I recently fitted all new rotor's and metal pads this time, read the instructions on bedding the pads in and im amazed how much better the brakes have been and even after going through heaps of bogs it still stopping great. As for disc rotor wear i will know eventually thou even if the metal pads wear the disc's its worth it as the brakes are working. New rotors are so cheap nowadays if they need to be replaced every 2-3 pad changes big deal as i have good brakes.

Wally
how much do you pay for rotors o_o

whats cheap?
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Post by bruiser »

metal pads
never heard of such a thing. What brand are they and where do I get them from
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Post by RV80 »

Bendix make them. Repco, supercheap and the like would have them.
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Post by 80UTE »

Shadow wrote:
80UTE wrote:Ive been running soft organic pads for years to get more life from the disc's but in my 80 that only does wheelin with lots of mud i was getting about 1500 km's from a set of pads which i believe is mainly due to the mud chewing the pads away and it wouldn't stop to well with 38's either, OK untill the pads were impregnated with dirt and grit. I recently fitted all new rotor's and metal pads this time, read the instructions on bedding the pads in and im amazed how much better the brakes have been and even after going through heaps of bogs it still stopping great. As for disc rotor wear i will know eventually thou even if the metal pads wear the disc's its worth it as the brakes are working. New rotors are so cheap nowadays if they need to be replaced every 2-3 pad changes big deal as i have good brakes.

Wally
how much do you pay for rotors o_o

whats cheap?
I get my new Aus made one for around $65 each through a guy i know that get them for me at wholesale price and about $15 for Aus made pad sets so i always have a full set of brakes on the shelf ready to go.

Wally
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Post by XLGXL »

was at the brake place today, do i need 100 series or 105 series front pads for the upgrade? They are 2 different part numbers in the application books. Will be putting new slotted rotors and 100/105 series pads in next week, should improve braking quite a bit
mine being a 94 model should be able to take the standard 100 series pads ?? Is that what your saying? Hope so cos my brakes suck arse.
So how did it go would like to know :?:
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Post by beanz2 »

From what I heard, they're the 100 series pads. To fit them into 80 series calipers people leave out the anti squeal shims as the 100 pads are thicker.

Here in the States, there are some cheap Chinese-made rotors that warp easily. I don't know how to tell other than by looking at the box or the low price. Generally you get what you pay for.

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Post by XLGXL »

found this
Hi If your 80 series is a 9/92 or later, buy a set of front pads for a 100 series rigid diff (or to be techo...a 105 series) These pads fit straight in and have more pad contact with the disc...in essence they are oblong (instead of tapered down the bottom) and once fitted, (i bought ferado kevlar pads for 60 bux) will give you better braking on the front wheels. Absolute godsend if you have bigger tyres or heavy accessories....
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Post by Roktruk »

So no chance of them fitting 8/91 80? Pads are just about due again, so this option would be great. since force = pressure x area, larger pads have to apply more braking force. Rears are never an issue - remove the drums and flush the mud :) 120K out of the last set of rear shoes
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Post by bruiser »

checked the book at supercheap on weekend.
The part number for 100 and 80 series pads was the same for the rear.
Front however was different.
The backing plate was heaps larger, could not see these fitting.
:?: :?: :armsup:
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