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Dumb tyre question......

Tech Talk for Ford, Mazda, Daihatsu & Makes that currently dont have a home.

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Dumb tyre question......

Post by TX4000 »

Howdy folks, I'm about to grab a set of as new 31's now the question is will these fit under my F20 ? I have 8" sunnys on it & the tyres on it now are marked 235/75 15 what size are these ? I assume the 235 is width and 75 is the profile but what is the overall diameter ?

Cheers.
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

Theoretically that should be around 29 inch, but check manufactures specs for their real sizes. with a 2 inch lift 31's on 8" sunnies should fit depending on backspacing. The prolly hit the framerail under full compression and full lock , so you might need to adjust the adjusting bolts

cheers
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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Post by Eddy »

Had 31s on my F50, on 7" sunnies
only trouble I had was with four blokes on the back (six on board) one day searching for pig sign.....total weight 635 kg :oops:

back tyres rubbed on arches :? wonder why??
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Post by ShinyDiscoBalls »

This might help on tyre sizes.

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalcul ... ion=submit

Good luck
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Post by PigDog »

my on road tyres are 31x10.5x15 thay fit fine under my f55p all you have 2 do is wind out the litle screw on the swivel housing so thay dont rub on the leaf and chasey and thats with stock orig stuffed springs and then i got my 35x10.5x16 thay rubed a bit even after i cut the panels 2 inch and cut the centers out of them and offset them a inch trying 2 get clearence. thats the front as for the back i have a tray that sits just about at window level so i dont know about them
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

Eddy wrote:Had 31s on my F50, on 7" sunnies
only trouble I had was with four blokes on the back (six on board) one day searching for pig sign.....total weight 635 kg :oops:

back tyres rubbed on arches :? wonder why??
I had the same, hence the lift I suggested, on road it was ok, other than that it looked silly with the tire sitting so close to the fender. offroad it ripped the plastic wheelarches off with even the slightest compression. Front fenders have enough room for 31's other than the rubbing on the framerail.
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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F20 Resin Top, 2.5" lift , 31" Grabber AT's
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Post by TX4000 »

Sounds good, will put em on and work it out from there. I do need to rebuild the top/bottom swivel bearings tho. I will Karcher it down and "find" the stop bolts and set em up at static level.

thanks :)
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Post by Area54 »

I've got 32's on 7 inch rims, they do scrub a bit on full lock, but the 31's never scrubbed at all.
Built, not bought.
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Post by TX4000 »

Ok.. have got them... I put them alongside the wheels on the F20 now... looks like about 3 inch difference in height, Hmmmmm.... this could be fun.
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

good on ya !...... got pics???
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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Post by TX4000 »

Will do.. its dark and raining in Tas at moment, I will do a before and after shot. I suspect I will end up with a 2 inch body lift, easy enough done, tho the ones I have seen are only 2" RHS open ended, I would be inclined to box up the ends and perhaps put a boss through the middle. What bolts does one use for chassis rails ? grade 8 ? Now next question... brake line extensions and handbrake cable, do these have enough overhead for 2" lift ?

Cheers.
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

No worries about the pics mate :)

Handbrake cable moves with the body when you lift it and has enough slack. I don't have a body lift so can't say for sure if you have to move the brakelines. But I think the compensation loops in it can deal with some lift.

best thing imho is to get some massive spacers fabricated, or buy some thick metal strips and weld them to the desired height.

cheers
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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Post by TX4000 »

STEERING COLUMN !!!! oops..... whats the go here ? I thought of gear levers... no probs here... bull bar... slightly lower no prob.. but the steering column... thoughts ?
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

If you keep using the rubber coupling you might need some spacers to lenghten the shaft. But with a short shaft like this the angle on the coupling willbe under a severe angle I guess and that's a bad thing because their not meant to be used beyond a couple degrees. Try sourcing a uni that fits the splined shafts from the steeringbox and the lower part of the steering shaft to replace the rubber coupling. Keep in mind I'm no expert in local vehicle laws, let alone the Ozzy ones, so I'm not sure if its legeal to fiddle with the steering setup :lol:
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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F20 Resin Top, 2.5" lift , 31" Grabber AT's
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Post by TX4000 »

I'll have a look tomorrow in the light.. I have had the column out before to mig the bracket back on... I'm thinking a spline with a uni half (splined socket) joined in an extension type arrangement perhaps.
Might need to pose a new thread on the main forum ?

Hey found this doing a google for lift kits -> http://www.ozeastfibreglass4wd.com.au/gallery.html
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Post by TX4000 »

THEY ARE ON !!!! what a tractor !! Pix tomorrow. I will take my GPS and see what speed it cruises at. seems to work a tad harder, they run fine.. no scrapes so far.
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Post by TX4000 »

PIX..... sorta
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Post by TX4000 »

another shot...
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

Looks nice!! No rubbing when flexing the rearend?
cheers

BTW. what tires are they? I'm not sure I've seen them over here before
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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Post by TX4000 »

They are "remoulds" not sure who does them, they are a kind of recap tyre only they are not capped in the normal way they are heat pressed etc.
Does my 80kph tractor :) I havnt had it in the bush yet, but will do If I get a chance, to busy playin with my other toy, an IT250 bike. I have to change the front uni cuz its stuffed.. squeaking, and its off the track we go.
I noticed the front tyres just touch on full lock, so while Im under there I will do the turn stops.
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Post by Area54 »

body lift is fairly simple, the hard brake line loops will uncurl a little, radiator cowl may need some work, the steering shaft is long enough ;) .

Better to get some proper body lift blocks, or make some from allly rod, than to use box section. Gear levers will be fine if you have a 4 speed and transfer 4 speed (gearbox) transfer lever, the 5speed transfer lever is different in shape and may jump out of gear with the rubber boot pulling on it.
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

TX4000 wrote: Does my 80kph tractor :)
Flat road, no wind, I managed to get the speedo sticking on 115 kph with the 31's yesterday :shock: :shock: scary handling though .....
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Post by SimplyPV »

elgordomuygrande wrote:
TX4000 wrote: Does my 80kph tractor :)
Flat road, no wind, I managed to get the speedo sticking on 115 kph with the 31's yesterday :shock: :shock: scary handling though .....
thats it?! 115 k/h?! :roll:

got up to 115 MPH! :shock: runnin 30's.. now THAT was scary.... thought the whole thing was just gonna scatter to pieces. :rofl:
[quote="simplypv"]its a Strine thing and i just dont understand![/quote]
Regards, PV
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Post by elgordomuygrande »

actually more like 125 kph (larger circumference of tires in comparison to stock)

remember, this is an old lifted F20 with a huge 67 hp, and a track width of 1200 mm

Think it felt the same as you rocky at 115 mph :lol:
smokin' is bad, especially for your curtains

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F20 Resin Top, 2.5" lift , 31" Grabber AT's
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