Rear lower control arms

[toughnut]

They adjust out as well as in

[turps]

They adjust out as well as in

mmm
I had always been told that on a SWB you need to lower the pinion angle not make it higher. Also if you tilt it up it will cause other stuff to bend eg springs and shocks. Shocks can be damaged in 2 ways. 1 there is only so much flex the shock bushes can take before they bend the shafts. 2 bumpstop mount hits the shock shaft and dints it, this is easily fixed with a grinder though.

[toughnut]

YEAH!!!! GET THE GRINDER OUT

[turps]

YEAH!!!! GET THE GRINDER OUT

Dont you start.
Every time I mention something like, I would like to trim that or turn it into a ute I rekon a dozen mates turn up with grinders, gas axes and plasma cutters.

[GQ TROL]

toughnut wrote:
turps wrote:
bucketofbolts wrote:
sorry, rectangular, so you recommend them


Yep I have been very happy with mine. They have been smashed onto rock a number of times with no damage. I am only taking them out (will keep though) to try and fix my pinion angle which is buggered due to higher lift, so they need to be slightly longer.



You could leave them in and get adjustable uppers


I could but then that would rotate the axle forwards slightly. Which would make the wheel closure to the front of the guard when flexing and as it is have a contact issue now and the front of the guard has already been trimmed. Where as the rear being straight metal no plastic crap. If it still touches there I will cut more off.

I agree with ya Turps...I bought adjustable uppers thinking they would correct my pinion problems. While it has minimised it, the shortened upper arms have reduced the wheel base enough that 33's rub on the front of the rear guards well before full flex is reached. Getting longer lower arms (rectangular) to place the rear diff back in the correct position is the go!

[Suspension Stuff]

Unless you have a shorty with a lift and a double cardin joint. Then you need adjustable upper trailing arms because you are straightening the pinion angle while slightly lengthening your wheel base. (Not advised unless you have to)

[toughnut]

YEAH!!!! GET THE GRINDER OUT

Dont you start.
Every time I mention something like, I would like to trim that or turn it into a ute I rekon a dozen mates turn up with grinders, gas axes and plasma cutters.

You can doooo iiiiitttt

[AndrewPatrol]

So nearly all you guys have NOT answered my question.
Is it better to go all out for strength or medium strength to save things down the line (mounts, axles etc)

There ive made the question as simple as I can this time !!!! LOL

[toughnut]

Having strong suspension components won't break other stuff on your vehicle. You driving hard because you have heavy duty gear on it will break stuff If you have hard mounted components like mogs joints then you need to strengthen your chassis mounts cause they have no give in them. If you are considering this gear then you either plan to drive harder or are driving harder than original design. So it would be advisable to brace your chassis mounts anyway for piece of mind.

[bigpig]

If you are fitting adjustable arms it would be good to get a angle wheel as you need to be no more than 5deg from face to face So using a double cardenal joint throus that all out the window {eg more length less flex
]

still solving problems for bowers suspension even the steering shakes that hey causr

[turps]

So nearly all you guys have NOT answered my question.
Is it better to go all out for strength or medium strength to save things down the line (mounts, axles etc)

There ive made the question as simple as I can this time !!!! LOL

OK with trailing arms, if you are still running rubber bushes. There is no real extra stress on anything.
It just means that when you drag the car over a rock or drop it on a rut. The trailing arms wont bend and break.
In normal driving they are only in compression/tenstion type stress. Its when off-road that they are involved in bend forces, when they get hit with something.
Many of us are running HD trailing arms, with no other strengthening. And all is still good after many km.
I dont think you need a solid rod, just something with a thicker wall thickness will do the job.

[toughnut]

Even 3rd's trailing arms aren't solid. They have a 10mm wall thickness though

[turps]

Even 3rd's trailing arms aren't solid. They have a 10mm wall thickness though

I wasnt even sure any one was making them out of solid rod. Just remember it from a discussion one day.
Think I might have ago at making my own first. Then when I stuff that up I will buy 3rds/snakes/cheezy ones.

[bazzle]

Even 3rd's trailing arms aren't solid. They have a 10mm wall thickness though

I wasnt even sure any one was making them out of solid rod. Just remember it from a discussion one day.
Think I might have ago at making my own first. Then when I stuff that up I will buy 3rds/snakes/cheezy ones.

Dont make your own. Too many legal hassles. Go to Mal and get longer ones. He will look after you.
My engineer accepted his products..

Bazzle

[muzza_fattire]

Even 3rd's trailing arms aren't solid. They have a 10mm wall thickness though

I wasnt even sure any one was making them out of solid rod. Just remember it from a discussion one day.
Think I might have ago at making my own first. Then when I stuff that up I will buy 3rds/snakes/cheezy ones.

My ones are solid

[blkmav]

The Snake arms are solid cromolly

[AndrewPatrol]

Thanks guys for the info I was after.

[Madmac]

i attended to mine before i bent one, i welded a piece of 25x25x5mm angle along the top and bottom of my arms, and then added a piece on 30x30mmx 5mm angle along the bottom, havent bent one yet and heaps cheaper than aftermarket ones

well these lasted me a few months, but i managed to kill one in the wattagans, so im now also going to look for something stronger