I know its tough. I hear about the pro and cons of rear discs and rear drum brakes. I have RDrB on my 60 but hear discs are so much better. What would be involved to change from RDrB to RDiB? Is it worth doing?Thanks guys. joel
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
60 brakes
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
60 brakes
I been thinking guys I know its tough. I hear about the pro and cons of rear discs and rear drum brakes. I have RDrB on my 60 but hear discs are so much better. What would be involved to change from RDrB to RDiB? Is it worth doing?Thanks guys. joel
I know its tough. I hear about the pro and cons of rear discs and rear drum brakes. I have RDrB on my 60 but hear discs are so much better. What would be involved to change from RDrB to RDiB? Is it worth doing?Thanks guys. joel[b]1985 HJ60[/b]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
This interests me too. My 60 has drum rears and every time I go through a decent mud puddle, they fill up with crud and the pedal goes spongy. IIRC, you need fully floating axles for disc brakes, which you probably don't have. Since I've fitted Toyota locker diffs, my rear is fully floating, so maybe a disc conversion would be feasible... 
why do you need full floating axles?
i thaught most australian model 60's are full floaters anyway, mine is(89)
you can get conversion kits from the states that use chevy calipers
or you could do a search and find one of the 10+ threads that has discussed this already. Essentially youy use the disc off the front of a hilux, the wheel studs from the front of a 60, the caliper from a subaru (which have handbrake level integrated), then make up a customm mount for the caliper. Then use an 80 series master cylinder....
i thaught most australian model 60's are full floaters anyway, mine is(89)
you can get conversion kits from the states that use chevy calipers
or you could do a search and find one of the 10+ threads that has discussed this already. Essentially youy use the disc off the front of a hilux, the wheel studs from the front of a 60, the caliper from a subaru (which have handbrake level integrated), then make up a customm mount for the caliper. Then use an 80 series master cylinder....
Full floating refers to how the axle is held within the diff housing.
A full floating diff housing is very similar to a front solid diff, without the swivels joint/CV's. IE there is a hub which mounts on a bearing & has the brakes attached to it. The axle then plugs into the centre & onto a drive plate at the outer end.
A semi floater has the axle & bearing as one & the brakes attach to the ends of the axle.
Basically, if you remove the axle from the rear of a full floater the hube etc stays on & you can continue to drive. If you pull the axle out of a semi floater, the brakes etc go with it & you are stuck until you fix it.
Putting a ARB locker DOES NOT covert your rear to a full floater.
60's do have full floating rears with drum brakes.
GQ's have semi floating rears with disc brakes. It is not a requirement to have a full floater to have rear disc brakes.
Full floaters are stronger as the axle only takes torsional load (ie twisting) and the vehicle weight is carried by the hub & therefore the housing. Semi floaters the axle takes both torsional & radial loads.
Here is a link to modifing a 60 rear:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpini ... 60rear.cfm
A full floating diff housing is very similar to a front solid diff, without the swivels joint/CV's. IE there is a hub which mounts on a bearing & has the brakes attached to it. The axle then plugs into the centre & onto a drive plate at the outer end.
A semi floater has the axle & bearing as one & the brakes attach to the ends of the axle.
Basically, if you remove the axle from the rear of a full floater the hube etc stays on & you can continue to drive. If you pull the axle out of a semi floater, the brakes etc go with it & you are stuck until you fix it.
Putting a ARB locker DOES NOT covert your rear to a full floater.
60's do have full floating rears with drum brakes.
GQ's have semi floating rears with disc brakes. It is not a requirement to have a full floater to have rear disc brakes.
Full floaters are stronger as the axle only takes torsional load (ie twisting) and the vehicle weight is carried by the hub & therefore the housing. Semi floaters the axle takes both torsional & radial loads.
Here is a link to modifing a 60 rear:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpini ... 60rear.cfm
2005 GU3 Patrol ST Ute
That'd be a "dana" 60 rear diff, not a "60 series" diff.Mytqik wrote:Here is a link to modifing a 60 rear:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpini ... 60rear.cfm
Damian.
should I swim it first ?
should I swim it first ?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests