Got my dyno results. Lost 5KW Boo Hoo.
BUT BUT BUT
The good news is wait for it 28% yes 28% MORE KW at 2000RPM.
To me this is hardly believable from a manifold change . Good old Hemholz and his resonance to supercharge cylinders.
You can work out the exact revs
but in third gear at 45KMh 42KW to 54KW thats 12 on 42 =28%
old then new
60 KMh 46 to 57KW =24%
75 KMh 46 to 56KW
90 kmh 54 to 54 KW ( bit of a sag as the resonant frequency drops off)
105 KMh 58 to 56 KW
120 KMh 62 to 58 KW
135 Kmh 60 to 58 KW
Second gear figures are higher in KW and the difference is greater on the graph. In second I have gone from max 80.5Kw to 75.7 Kw . you must lose at high revs with long runners . I know where I like the power.
As you can imagine this just utterly transforms the car. Hills that you could just hold in top and when you floored it it just kicked down now can be climbed on a whiff of throttle. Yee haaa.
This has to be the most effective mod I have ever made but its a bloody lot of work and fabrication and cost.
Regards Philip A
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Thor Manifold Dyno Results
Moderator: Micka
Sorry Phillip
I split this into a new topic so all could see.
Just a quick qestion around this - I know it cost you hours upon hours of
fabrication but how much did the mainfold cost and where did you get it from .
Thanks mate - good to see the figures and glad to hear you are happy with it, midrange power is something my rangie lacks
Tom
I split this into a new topic so all could see.
Just a quick qestion around this - I know it cost you hours upon hours of
fabrication but how much did the mainfold cost and where did you get it from .
Thanks mate - good to see the figures and glad to hear you are happy with it, midrange power is something my rangie lacks
Tom
I got the manifold from ebay from AVO Mitcham Victoria. It cost $680?? including the injectors (which I didn't use ) and rail ditto.
I found I was bidding against a fellow forumer Ted Lehmann, so I asked whether they had a second, so he bought one too at the same price. The guy seemed a bit unhappy so , I do not know whether anyone else can get one at that price.
The amount of fabrication depends on the injection you use , but in any case you have to organise a kickdown , which is the most time consuming because there is no provision on the new throttle body and brackets have to be made,accelerator cable, modify (grind) manifold to fit rail if you have a Range Rover or new rail if Disco( expensive), bracket and housing for stepper if using 14 CUX, several hoses for reroute of heater, possible fuel regulator, if using 14 CUX, need to adapt old TPS to new throttle, need to make hoses and bypass for stepper or IACV, relocate aircleaner and modify if necessary .Whoops almost forgot, have front of manifold machined to take temp sensors and thermostat housing as they do not have one. This cost me $360 but Ted did it himself.
Sounds easy but bloody hard.
Need to have Unichip if using 14 CUX or complete retune with after market as air requiremnets are completely different.
I am happy to help someone once they have bought a manifold but it is too much detail to do the steps on the forum for no reason but interest. Its best if anyone wants to do it, to email or post if they are in trouble, as the needs will differ depending on which injection is used. Ted for example is using a Haltech and the new rail so the detail he has is different to mine.
regards Philip A
I found I was bidding against a fellow forumer Ted Lehmann, so I asked whether they had a second, so he bought one too at the same price. The guy seemed a bit unhappy so , I do not know whether anyone else can get one at that price.
The amount of fabrication depends on the injection you use , but in any case you have to organise a kickdown , which is the most time consuming because there is no provision on the new throttle body and brackets have to be made,accelerator cable, modify (grind) manifold to fit rail if you have a Range Rover or new rail if Disco( expensive), bracket and housing for stepper if using 14 CUX, several hoses for reroute of heater, possible fuel regulator, if using 14 CUX, need to adapt old TPS to new throttle, need to make hoses and bypass for stepper or IACV, relocate aircleaner and modify if necessary .Whoops almost forgot, have front of manifold machined to take temp sensors and thermostat housing as they do not have one. This cost me $360 but Ted did it himself.
Sounds easy but bloody hard.
Need to have Unichip if using 14 CUX or complete retune with after market as air requiremnets are completely different.
I am happy to help someone once they have bought a manifold but it is too much detail to do the steps on the forum for no reason but interest. Its best if anyone wants to do it, to email or post if they are in trouble, as the needs will differ depending on which injection is used. Ted for example is using a Haltech and the new rail so the detail he has is different to mine.
regards Philip A
I cannot seem to post the dyno charts so follow the link.
I recall someone said on an earlier post that wheel size ie gearing does not influence dyno results. Look at the results in s4econd and third gears . They are entirely different.
I calculated revs fronm a US website using wheel diameter and gearing, if I recall 30.5 Inches . Diff 3.54 . and gear 1.206 ( = third gear 1:1 and transfer 1.206) ( or whatever it is.)
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~parmbru ... llery.html
Regard s Philip A
I recall someone said on an earlier post that wheel size ie gearing does not influence dyno results. Look at the results in s4econd and third gears . They are entirely different.
I calculated revs fronm a US website using wheel diameter and gearing, if I recall 30.5 Inches . Diff 3.54 . and gear 1.206 ( = third gear 1:1 and transfer 1.206) ( or whatever it is.)
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~parmbru ... llery.html
Regard s Philip A
Did this to my V8 Disco some time back (See 4wd Monthly "Disco Devils") made for a much more driveable vehicle, glad your happy with the result.Philip A wrote: Second gear figures are higher in KW and the difference is greater on the graph. In second I have gone from max 80.5Kw to 75.7 Kw . you must lose at high revs with long runners . I know where I like the power.
As you can imagine this just utterly transforms the car. Hills that you could just hold in top and when you floored it it just kicked down now can be climbed on a whiff of throttle. Yee haaa.
This has to be the most effective mod I have ever made but its a bloody lot of work and fabrication and cost.
Regards Philip A
I too changed to Haltech for mine but managed to use the std Disco fuel rail.
Cheers
Mike
Landrovers... Nothing else comes close!
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