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Recovery Point for NH and hand winch query
Moderator: -Scott-
Recovery Point for NH and hand winch query
Hey Guys,
pretty new to 4wd drive stuff (a noob i guess). Have a NH Pajero that does not appear to have rated recovery points. There is a D hook on the rear above tow ball and on the front is a tow point. Where do you go to get rated recovery points fitted that allow for use of a snatch strap and a ball park figure on cost ? I live in Brisbane..
2nd question is come across bushranger emergency hand winch , are these reasonable, I know there are more expensive and better quality hand winches, but I don't intend on doing really heavy 4wd for the time being. Most will be beach driving but wouldn't mind having something that would pull me out of trouble if no other vechile around.
http://www.bushranger.com.au/handwinch.html
http://www.4wdworld.com.au/newproducts/winch.htm
pretty new to 4wd drive stuff (a noob i guess). Have a NH Pajero that does not appear to have rated recovery points. There is a D hook on the rear above tow ball and on the front is a tow point. Where do you go to get rated recovery points fitted that allow for use of a snatch strap and a ball park figure on cost ? I live in Brisbane..
2nd question is come across bushranger emergency hand winch , are these reasonable, I know there are more expensive and better quality hand winches, but I don't intend on doing really heavy 4wd for the time being. Most will be beach driving but wouldn't mind having something that would pull me out of trouble if no other vechile around.
http://www.bushranger.com.au/handwinch.html
http://www.4wdworld.com.au/newproducts/winch.htm
Fabricate a tow hook mount to fit to the four rear bolts, if you are unsure of your welding abilities use 8mm angle for the bolt on piece and the hook mount, then weld gussets from beside the hook to past the top bolts.
For the front it depends on your bumper style, plate the chassis with 5mm plate then drill 22mm holes at 35mm spacing and weld heavy wall tube through the chassis to prevent crushing. Then bolt the hook to the chassis and torque the bolts to the correct figure, ie grade 8 1/2" unf to 104 lbsft.
The winch's are ok but they don't have much cable and there is not usually anything on a beach to winch from.
J Top
For the front it depends on your bumper style, plate the chassis with 5mm plate then drill 22mm holes at 35mm spacing and weld heavy wall tube through the chassis to prevent crushing. Then bolt the hook to the chassis and torque the bolts to the correct figure, ie grade 8 1/2" unf to 104 lbsft.
The winch's are ok but they don't have much cable and there is not usually anything on a beach to winch from.
J Top
Yep on the driver side front chassis (just below the bumper) there is a welded recovery hook which is beefy as.
No-one to my knowledge (here or overseas) has broken one of these.
Severe snatches can be done with this point but attach the strap directly onto it (don't use a shackle, even a rated one).
The D attachment at the rear (held on by 4 bolts) is bolted directly to the rear crossmember and is ok for towing but not heavy snatch recoveries.
There have been bent rear crossmembers after severe snatches.
It's better to pull longitudinally along a chassis rail rather than against a cross member.
You can buy an aftermarket recovery hook and bolt it to a rear chassis rail. The chassis rail is 3mm thick so it is better to use a backing plate for extra strength. Every major 4x4 store sells them, brands such as Black Rat etc.
The come along hand pullers are ok for what you pay and can get you out of trouble if your not stuck too bad.
No-one to my knowledge (here or overseas) has broken one of these.
Severe snatches can be done with this point but attach the strap directly onto it (don't use a shackle, even a rated one).
The D attachment at the rear (held on by 4 bolts) is bolted directly to the rear crossmember and is ok for towing but not heavy snatch recoveries.
There have been bent rear crossmembers after severe snatches.
It's better to pull longitudinally along a chassis rail rather than against a cross member.
You can buy an aftermarket recovery hook and bolt it to a rear chassis rail. The chassis rail is 3mm thick so it is better to use a backing plate for extra strength. Every major 4x4 store sells them, brands such as Black Rat etc.
The come along hand pullers are ok for what you pay and can get you out of trouble if your not stuck too bad.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Hi Frank
Our club in Wellington NZ has outlawed factory hooks after repeated failures of the Nissan hook.
There has been 1 instance of a factory Pajero hook tearing the metal along the weld to the chassis. Fortunatly it was spotted before it detached.
We have an annual vehicle inspection and sticker to confirm,
Tow Hooks, Mounting Bolts, Mountings, Fire Extinguisher, First Aid Kit
and security of recovery gear and spades etc in the vehicle.
This is in an attempt to minimise risk to all participants of club trips.
J Top
Our club in Wellington NZ has outlawed factory hooks after repeated failures of the Nissan hook.
There has been 1 instance of a factory Pajero hook tearing the metal along the weld to the chassis. Fortunatly it was spotted before it detached.
We have an annual vehicle inspection and sticker to confirm,
Tow Hooks, Mounting Bolts, Mountings, Fire Extinguisher, First Aid Kit
and security of recovery gear and spades etc in the vehicle.
This is in an attempt to minimise risk to all participants of club trips.
J Top
The Mitsubishi club here in Queensland doesn't have a problem with either front or rear hook on a Pajero. They're not particularly impressed with the L300 hooks, don't know about any others.
This isn't the first time I've heard that the Nissan loops are a concern, but I can't recall any details. The Mitsubishi plate does appear much beefier than the Nissan equivalent.
Cheers,
Scott
This isn't the first time I've heard that the Nissan loops are a concern, but I can't recall any details. The Mitsubishi plate does appear much beefier than the Nissan equivalent.
Cheers,
Scott
Hi Carl, yeah I'm surprised at the Paj front hook though they are pretty strong and I've used mine for some EXTREMELY severe pulls without any issue. But like everything there is always the possibility of a dodgy factory weld.
I removed both my front hooks and bolted on two Black Rat recovery hooks (at right angles to the chassis rails) using some thick plate for extra strength.
I still have the factory rear D hook but never use it (I'm also suss on it for strong snatches) but I installed a Black Rat hook on the right side chassis rail for heavy pulls.
The Nissan rear D hooks have a bad reputation.
I removed both my front hooks and bolted on two Black Rat recovery hooks (at right angles to the chassis rails) using some thick plate for extra strength.
I still have the factory rear D hook but never use it (I'm also suss on it for strong snatches) but I installed a Black Rat hook on the right side chassis rail for heavy pulls.
The Nissan rear D hooks have a bad reputation.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Not meaning to hijack the thread, but why did you mount them 90 degrees to the chassis and not inline?Bitsamissin wrote:I removed both my front hooks and bolted on two Black Rat recovery hooks (at right angles to the chassis rails) using some thick plate for extra strength.
Also bluecraka, note that the bolt holes in the rear of the chassis do not line up and are the wrong size for the bolt on hooks, you need to drill new holes. I *assume* they are for the heavy duty tow bar.
Four wheels (Driving) good, two wheels bad.
NP Pajero with added goodness..
NP Pajero with added goodness..
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