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Bad compression test.
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Bad compression test.
I just compression tested my 350 Chev in by boat & found no# 6 cylinder down to 90 psi. (did the oil in cyclinder test, no change)
1. 170 psi
2. 155
3. 160
4. 155
5. 160
6. 90
7. 170
8. 145
Im assuming the valves need attention.
Does anyone know how much it would be to have the valve seats replaced or whatever needs doing to be able to run unleaded instead of LRP ?
1. 170 psi
2. 155
3. 160
4. 155
5. 160
6. 90
7. 170
8. 145
Im assuming the valves need attention.
Does anyone know how much it would be to have the valve seats replaced or whatever needs doing to be able to run unleaded instead of LRP ?
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
fair bit of variation of some of the others too :( start with the valve clearances, if it has bad valve seat recession it could be that there is a valve not closing fully on that cylinder.
can you just run a lead substitute or valvesaver type drip system instead of expensive head work? if it's not a race boat I'd just drive it to death.
can you just run a lead substitute or valvesaver type drip system instead of expensive head work? if it's not a race boat I'd just drive it to death.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
I removed the rocker cover & kicked it over to the compression stroke & the rockers were just loose & not holding the valve down at all.
I could just use an additive but the reason for this thread is that i dont know how "exensive" the head work would be.
By the looks of it i have to re-seat the valves anyway.
I could just use an additive but the reason for this thread is that i dont know how "exensive" the head work would be.
By the looks of it i have to re-seat the valves anyway.
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
Should be able to get them done for$300-400 depending on condition of parts like the valve springs etc.
Valves cost about $12-18ea ex and $8-15 intakes these are what I use to pay a few years ago tufftrided valves or stianless one piece are the go.
What condition was the inside of the engine like oil gulgie or clean.
Valves cost about $12-18ea ex and $8-15 intakes these are what I use to pay a few years ago tufftrided valves or stianless one piece are the go.
What condition was the inside of the engine like oil gulgie or clean.
I'm not stuck I'm over here!
Watch where you driven!!!
Watch where you driven!!!
I havent pulled the engine down yet so dont know much about the inside, i do change the oil from time to time & recently used a oil flush before the last re fill.
One thing ive noticed is it does run a little cold as its cooling water is straight from the dam via the exhaust manifolds, always been that way.
I suppose one way to tell if its the valves is to swap the heads around & see if the problem moves.
One thing ive noticed is it does run a little cold as its cooling water is straight from the dam via the exhaust manifolds, always been that way.
I suppose one way to tell if its the valves is to swap the heads around & see if the problem moves.
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
valves
fair bet your problem will be the valves , pull the head from the offending cyl. quick check would be once the heads off just pour abit of petrol diesel etc into the comb. chamber if the valves aren"t sealing fuel will leak through into the ports pretty quick.
providing your guides ,margin on valve head & valve seat recession are all ok just give it a valve grind . BTW the variation between your cylinders is still within allowable tolerences, bar the 90 psi .
If it's just a social ski boat I wouldn't worry about the inserts unless you have bad valve seat recession , it will go for years on unleaded with out any problems!
providing your guides ,margin on valve head & valve seat recession are all ok just give it a valve grind . BTW the variation between your cylinders is still within allowable tolerences, bar the 90 psi .
If it's just a social ski boat I wouldn't worry about the inserts unless you have bad valve seat recession , it will go for years on unleaded with out any problems!
TOYOTAS ARE LIKE TAMPONS!! every pussie has one!
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD...You know you want to hit it...Your just afraid of the consequences
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD...You know you want to hit it...Your just afraid of the consequences
Heads are comming off tomorrow so i might swap them around & do the test again, if the problem moves it will be a valve problem.
Scout, you say the heads as is will be ok on unleaded without re seating them, why would this be the case ?
Scout, you say the heads as is will be ok on unleaded without re seating them, why would this be the case ?
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
valves
G'dayKev,
do a search " no more decent fuel? "
It's been explained before.
The valves should be reseated, what i meant was unless the seats are badly receeded don't waste your money on INSERTS.
Andrew
do a search " no more decent fuel? "
It's been explained before.
The valves should be reseated, what i meant was unless the seats are badly receeded don't waste your money on INSERTS.
Andrew
TOYOTAS ARE LIKE TAMPONS!! every pussie has one!
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD...You know you want to hit it...Your just afraid of the consequences
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD...You know you want to hit it...Your just afraid of the consequences
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