Engineering/Strength Question

Post by **Wendle** » Mon May 19, 2003 2:05 pm

Would it be dodgy or dangerous to ream out an existing female taper upside-down??, ie: so that a tie-rod end can be flipped to the other side of an arm. I realise that the taper will then only contact over half its length, but it will still be the top, or bulkier, half, so it should still bite in nice and tight?? yes or no??

Post by **derangedrover** » Mon May 19, 2003 5:37 pm

it probably wont stay tight without use of a 'cone' to fit over the male taper and into the 'old' female taper on the nut side, depending on loading and how much of a void you create.
pretty sure you can buy these for common metric conversions, try some of the better steering/suspension places, or have a machine shop make you some, cheap insurance.

Cheers
Daryl

Post by **NICK** » Mon May 19, 2003 7:56 pm

i think you can buy tappered inserts, might be worth a look.

But i say BOOTY FAB it.

NICK

Post by **redrocket** » Mon May 19, 2003 8:44 pm

Is there a chance of filling the existing hole with weld and then re-drilling it the opposite way?

Post by **bazooked** » Mon May 19, 2003 9:16 pm

NOPE!! the weld will probably go hard, u might be able to drill it but it will definetly crack on u later on. with public liability and all is it really worth the risk??

Post by **redrocket** » Mon May 19, 2003 10:22 pm

bazooked wrote:NOPE!! the weld will probably go hard, u might be able to drill it but it will definetly crack on u later on. with public liability and all is it really worth the risk??

I'm not sure what you mean "go hard"?? i thought that was the general idea of welding

Post by **POS** » Mon May 19, 2003 10:30 pm

redrocket wrote:
bazooked wrote:NOPE!! the weld will probably go hard, u might be able to drill it but it will definetly crack on u later on. with public liability and all is it really worth the risk??

I'm not sure what you mean "go hard"?? i thought that was the general idea of welding

It makes the surrounding steel BRITTLE (hard) something you don't want on your steering links!!

Post by **OVERKILL ENG** » Mon May 19, 2003 10:42 pm

Wendle the best way to do it is drill the arm make a tapered sleave and press it into yhe arm we have done this to a few GU's when lowering the steering arm with great success.
SAM

Post by **Wendle** » Tue May 20, 2003 7:55 am

overkill wrote:Wendle the best way to do it is drill the arm make a tapered sleave and press it into yhe arm we have done this to a few GU's when lowering the steering arm with great success.
SAM

That was the other option I was thinking of. Bore the taper out straight then press fit a shim inside and then taper bore the shim.

This is for swapping MQ hubs onto a GQ housing, the MQ tierod is roughly at the centreline of the housing, but hangs under the arms, swapping it to above the arms would put it pretty high up, especially compared to the stock GQ position.

If the shim was tapered first, then pressed into the arms would it distort too much??

Post by **bj on roids** » Tue May 20, 2003 8:17 am

i think just taper drill the knuckles, and even if its 50% it will be enough contact.

Post by **Zookymatt** » Tue May 20, 2003 10:23 am

Sam,

How tight a press fit do you go??

Regards,
Matt.

Post by **Webbie** » Tue May 20, 2003 10:57 am

I think its possible to weld it without becomeing brittle if u heat it red hot then weld it with say a low hydrogen rod / hi tensile . :roll:

:wink:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<<<<<<<WEBBIE<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Post by **2car** » Tue May 20, 2003 12:18 pm

Another option is to run the taper in from the other side so that there is none of the original taper left. Obviously, the taper will then be oversize, but the shims are then dead easy and cheap to make. I have hilux/60 series tapers in my steering arms and they are shimmed to take the smaller 40 series tie rod ends. I get about 90% contact in the taper.

Post by **Wendle** » Tue May 20, 2003 12:49 pm

2car wrote:Another option is to run the taper in from the other side so that there is none of the original taper left. Obviously, the taper will then be oversize, but the shims are then dead easy and cheap to make. I have hilux/60 series tapers in my steering arms and they are shimmed to take the smaller 40 series tie rod ends. I get about 90% contact in the taper.

This sounds like the simplest solution yet....

U still cool for this weekend??

Post by **2car** » Tue May 20, 2003 1:22 pm

Wendle wrote:
2car wrote:Another option is to run the taper in from the other side so that there is none of the original taper left. Obviously, the taper will then be oversize, but the shims are then dead easy and cheap to make. I have hilux/60 series tapers in my steering arms and they are shimmed to take the smaller 40 series tie rod ends. I get about 90% contact in the taper.

This sounds like the simplest solution yet....

U still cool for this weekend??

I thought of it a little while ago but forgot to mention it. This thread reminded me. All go for the weekend.

Post by **GRUNTLESS** » Tue May 20, 2003 6:17 pm

I went the full booty fab when i did mine :roll:

double flipped arm with a 60 series tie rod going in through the top

All i did was drill the taper out about half way then taper the top a little
put the tie rod in and then press the farker out of it......... hasnt worked loose at all in 20,000ks

BOOTY FAB from hell :wink:

Post by **Surfection** » Tue May 20, 2003 6:29 pm

WHAT ?!?!

Are you saying there's booty fab on your runner trav ? Fark off man, it's the model of top quality engineering !!! :lol:

Post by **GRUNTLESS** » Tue May 20, 2003 6:46 pm

man i'am the king of BOOTY u should no this by now :roll:

went to the bike show in sydney on sunday and was wondering why it was bouncin all over the joint worse then it usally does so i pulled over and had a look and found a rear shock just hangin there................ id lost the bolt that holds it on the diff so i just put it back on with some 100 mile an hour tape :wink: it worked sick

now that is some booty

Post by **MKPatrolGuy** » Wed May 21, 2003 2:26 pm

Wendle, where are you going to mount the axle end of the drag link? Custom arm on the knuckle or onto the tierod like the MK/Q Patrols?

Post by **Wendle** » Wed May 21, 2003 2:46 pm

Onto the tierod - MQ style. With the tie rod on top of the knucke the taper for the drag link will be back to front, This may be of advantage to me as the axle is shifted forward a bit. If not I'll have to to the same reverse taper operation to it....

Post by **MKPatrolGuy** » Wed May 21, 2003 8:17 pm

Cool, so you are using the MQ tierod, I was under the impression the GQ diffs were wider, is there enough adjustment in the tierod ends to compensate?...Or am I totally wrong?

Post by **ozy1** » Wed May 21, 2003 11:07 pm

as far as im aware, the GQ diffs are wider, i looked at puttin a set under my MQ shortie as well as doing a coil donversion, if i remember rightly the GQ ones are 100mm wider, correct me if im wrong. Instead went out and purchased a GQ, came with what i wanted, now im consideing fittin GU diffs under her,

Shawn

Post by **Wendle** » Thu May 22, 2003 7:30 am

The hole for the draglink is actually part of the MQ rod-end, so I am just gonna cut one end off the solid tie-rod I have now and drill and tap it for the MQ end and use a jam nut on it.

Post by **MKPatrolGuy** » Thu May 22, 2003 8:16 am

Ahh, ic ic I hadn't look that closely at mine.

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