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help converting a vac locker to air

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Road Ranger
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help converting a vac locker to air

Post by Tiny »

OK, I have a factory vac locker going in, but dont have any gear wired up, no solonoid or anything, can anyone please talk me through hooking this locker up to actuate on positive pressure (ie air) not vacuum
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Post by Area54 »

You would need to do some mods to the diff housing as well as fit some sort of pneumatic ram actuator to engage the locker.The factory locker diff housing has the cutouts for the vacuum actuator.
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Road Ranger
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Post by Tiny »

bump
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Post by Hobbz »

a while back there was a long thread with all the info needed, part number for solenoid and so on ...
But basicly it's just hooking your solenoid upto air and running the lines all the way back to diff. ;)

Found something that could help ...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=33706
GQ 2.8TD. OME. 35 BFG. Fact. Rear Locker on steroids. Air Locker front. Gearmaster Reduction. 6HP Warn 8274.
Road Ranger
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Location: In a town near you

Post by Tiny »

Hobbz wrote:a while back there was a long thread with all the info needed, part number for solenoid and so on ...
But basicly it's just hooking your solenoid upto air and running the lines all the way back to diff. ;)

Found something that could help ...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=33706
THAAAAATS the one I was looking for :D thanks
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...

Post by JemmyBubbles »

Your still gonna have to get a good solenoid for it... Search for the thread about the super duper Solenoid me and some other guys got..

You will always have vacuum if the car is running. And mine unlocks and locks with this new solenoid as fast as it possibly can almost instantly. I don't think the actuator can handle to much pressure... so if you did convert you would need a release valve for pressure or maybe not...

IF you really wanna go air then do so... But vaccuum is convenient... Neither way will be any faster than the other. These things can only lock as quickly as the selector fork can mesh with the side gears, sometimes it takes a few revolutions of the wheels...
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Road Ranger
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Re: ...

Post by Tiny »

JemmyBubbles wrote:Your still gonna have to get a good solenoid for it... Search for the thread about the super duper Solenoid me and some other guys got..

You will always have vacuum if the car is running. And mine unlocks and locks with this new solenoid as fast as it possibly can almost instantly. I don't think the actuator can handle to much pressure... so if you did convert you would need a release valve for pressure or maybe not...

IF you really wanna go air then do so... But vaccuum is convenient... Neither way will be any faster than the other. These things can only lock as quickly as the selector fork can mesh with the side gears, sometimes it takes a few revolutions of the wheels...
thanks, I dont have the factory solanoid, so may as welll go air, got an updated price of $170.00
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Go the solenoid..

Post by JemmyBubbles »

Yeah these things are fairly good bits of gear. Give us pics of how you run the vacc/ or air lines whatever you decide down the chassis rail...

I used the original vacc lines off a lwb on my swb but the chassis clips that came with it were shagged soooo I cable tied them to the brake lines and such :roll: . If you come up with some neat looking way of doing it take some photos.

Interestingly the factor location for the vacuum lines runs along next to the exaust... silly I thought...

GOod luck buddy.

Jeremy
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Post by Hobbz »

I run mine along with the brakeline upto the frame, there is an unused hole in just besides the handbrake cable, up thru there and run it the rest of the way in the car, thru the firewall into the engine bay ...
Keeps the lines pretty well protected.
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Post by Steven »

I had mine running down through the inside of the chassis. plenty of access holes along the way to help out. i also used arb locker hose instead of rubber. made the whole process alot easier.

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Post by MKarmyshev »

Urgent help needed :roll:
How much pressure do I need to engage/disengage the locker?
Will Pajero compressor with ~0.3-0.5 bar of pressure do the job?
I'm afraid to use even the smallest tyre compressor because I don't want to ruin the diaphragm.
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Post by killer_garden_gnome »

if u can use manifold vac to engage them theres no way it needs over 10 psi....so u would think. i reckon .3 to .5 bar would be ok thats only 4-7 psi, if ur in doubt wack a regulator inline and turn it down as far as u want
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Post by MKarmyshev »

Thanks.
Looks like the actuator housing was smashed - it leaks air :oops:
I guess I have to think about converting to cable, not air :x
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Post by killer_garden_gnome »

get a small second hand pneumatic ram and wack a bracket on the housing, or get a second hand diaphram from a wrecker or parts car
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Post by killer_garden_gnome »

get a small second hand pneumatic ram and wack a bracket on the housing, or get a second hand diaphram from a wrecker or parts car
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Post by MKarmyshev »

Does it have to press into the diff to engage the locker?
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Post by killer_garden_gnome »

the shift fork moves so whatever u use needs to be secured to the diff somehow and sealed so ur housing wont leak
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Post by MKarmyshev »

I know that I have to seal it. Iwant to know if i have to push or pull the diaphragm to engage the locker.
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