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Adjustable Shock REPLACEMENTS for Sportrak
Moderator: Tiny
Adjustable Shock REPLACEMENTS for Sportrak
Hello everyone,
I'm writting from the Island of the Dominican Republic, in the caribbean. I have recently started the adventurous task of restoring my wife's old Feroza. Actually I was going to sell the vehicle, but I must admit that throughout the years I have gown very fond of the car, it has been a very loyal and trusty companion throughout the years. So I think it deserves to retire with some dignity.
My Feroza is a 93 model, series F300, in Australia is called the Sportrak , I have a 1.6 ltr HD-C engine (carburator).
Can u guys believe that for the first time in it's 12 yr life cycle I replaced the clutch system? this was done last week and my mechanic could not believe that this was the stock clutch that came with the car, I mean 12 yrs and 170,000 KM.....I call that reliable.
Now I need help with the shocks, my Feroza came with an Adjustable 3 damper system, last year I had to replace the rear shocks, but could not find the exact replacements in my country, so I had to buy KYB (non adjustable) and its been working fine so far (well maybe they are a bit on the hard side), but since I would like to restore the vehicle to its original state (or as close to it as possible) I would like to install the original (or replacements) adjustable shocks that came with the vehicle. Do you now of any company that has these replacement adjustable shock absorvers? I have been reading all over the web and so far can't find any information on the subject.
One last thing, do you guys know if its possible to fix the clinometer gauge? about 6 months ago mine stoped working correctly, seems it lost its positioning and balance and all It shows now its the back side of the gauge, maybe there are clinometers from other vehicles that can fit.
Any help would be appreciated...btw please excuse my writting, in my country we speak spanish, so my technical descrip[tions of some of the parts mybe way off.
I'm writting from the Island of the Dominican Republic, in the caribbean. I have recently started the adventurous task of restoring my wife's old Feroza. Actually I was going to sell the vehicle, but I must admit that throughout the years I have gown very fond of the car, it has been a very loyal and trusty companion throughout the years. So I think it deserves to retire with some dignity.
My Feroza is a 93 model, series F300, in Australia is called the Sportrak , I have a 1.6 ltr HD-C engine (carburator).
Can u guys believe that for the first time in it's 12 yr life cycle I replaced the clutch system? this was done last week and my mechanic could not believe that this was the stock clutch that came with the car, I mean 12 yrs and 170,000 KM.....I call that reliable.
Now I need help with the shocks, my Feroza came with an Adjustable 3 damper system, last year I had to replace the rear shocks, but could not find the exact replacements in my country, so I had to buy KYB (non adjustable) and its been working fine so far (well maybe they are a bit on the hard side), but since I would like to restore the vehicle to its original state (or as close to it as possible) I would like to install the original (or replacements) adjustable shocks that came with the vehicle. Do you now of any company that has these replacement adjustable shock absorvers? I have been reading all over the web and so far can't find any information on the subject.
One last thing, do you guys know if its possible to fix the clinometer gauge? about 6 months ago mine stoped working correctly, seems it lost its positioning and balance and all It shows now its the back side of the gauge, maybe there are clinometers from other vehicles that can fit.
Any help would be appreciated...btw please excuse my writting, in my country we speak spanish, so my technical descrip[tions of some of the parts mybe way off.
Hi, your English is near perfect!
In Australia the F300 is called a Feroza too- the UK calls them Sportraks.
KYB make the original factory adjustable shocks. I did find some adjustable KYB's on the internet for sale in a USA based webstore a while back. They might possibly be the same as you want and bolt straight in with the adjuster motor on top?
If you search in USA based stores you'll need to look for ones to suit a Rocky (that's what Feroza's are called there). And be aware the F310 widetrack has different rear shocks- I'm not sure if the USA got the narrow track model?
In Australia the F300 is called a Feroza too- the UK calls them Sportraks.
KYB make the original factory adjustable shocks. I did find some adjustable KYB's on the internet for sale in a USA based webstore a while back. They might possibly be the same as you want and bolt straight in with the adjuster motor on top?
If you search in USA based stores you'll need to look for ones to suit a Rocky (that's what Feroza's are called there). And be aware the F310 widetrack has different rear shocks- I'm not sure if the USA got the narrow track model?
David
Thanks for the Info Murcod, I was checking the KYB site...it seems they have two options for the Rocky....one is the Gas-A-Just shocks , I imagine those where the one's u are referring to and they aren't too expensive either, around US$ 49 (in the US)...........just need to make sure that the I can connect the adjuster motor on then.........one dumb question (i'm kinda new at dealing with shocks), when the shocks say they are adjustable, does it mean they can be controlled by and adjuster motor or some other device (device..dead giveaway as to my profession, cumputer eng. ) ?
The other option that they have are the GR-2, they are Gas shocks but not adjustable.
As for the narrow track in the US, I know that some of the guys here , when they travel to the US, usually get parts for the Rocky so they can use them on their Feroza..... I know a few of them that have brought back Rocky engines and replace their HD-C engines on their Feroza, they tell me that they don't have to do any mods, that it fits like a glove. The problem is that in my country we don't know them by wide tracks or Narrow track, we just call them Feroza's or Rocky's, actually the Rocky that we have here is totally different than the one in the states, while the US Rocky is identical to our Feroza's, the Rocky that we have in our country is larger, taller and more square....I think u guys call it the Fourtrak.
Again, thanks for the help mate and g'day (im already learning to speak Australian....lol)
The other option that they have are the GR-2, they are Gas shocks but not adjustable.
As for the narrow track in the US, I know that some of the guys here , when they travel to the US, usually get parts for the Rocky so they can use them on their Feroza..... I know a few of them that have brought back Rocky engines and replace their HD-C engines on their Feroza, they tell me that they don't have to do any mods, that it fits like a glove. The problem is that in my country we don't know them by wide tracks or Narrow track, we just call them Feroza's or Rocky's, actually the Rocky that we have here is totally different than the one in the states, while the US Rocky is identical to our Feroza's, the Rocky that we have in our country is larger, taller and more square....I think u guys call it the Fourtrak.
Again, thanks for the help mate and g'day (im already learning to speak Australian....lol)
We call them Feroza,FerozaII(widetrack) and the Rocky is a..umm... Rocky.
The U.K calls the feroza a sportrak and the rocky, a fourtrak.
The U.S calls a feroza a rocky.
There, hope that puts any confusion to rest.
I went with the non-adjustable KYBs when replacing the 10-yr old factory shocks, and have to say they're decent for that price.
The U.K calls the feroza a sportrak and the rocky, a fourtrak.
The U.S calls a feroza a rocky.
There, hope that puts any confusion to rest.
I went with the non-adjustable KYBs when replacing the 10-yr old factory shocks, and have to say they're decent for that price.
LOL.....LOL...one would almost need a manual just to keep up with all the different names...lol....as for KYB, you are completely correct, they are VERY descent shocks for the price, I think im going to take a gamble an order the adjustables, we might just have a KYB distributor in my country, so tomorrow im going to go check it out; if not, then ill order them from the states.
In case they do fit and I can use the dampening system, ill post it here.
FeroZul and David, thanks for taking the time to write and thanks for the help.
Regards,
George
In case they do fit and I can use the dampening system, ill post it here.
FeroZul and David, thanks for taking the time to write and thanks for the help.
Regards,
George
george, being from the states myself, we only have the widetrack model. (thought we had this straightned out dave??) from my understanding, 1990-1992 are exactly the same, all parts are interchangeable between those years. beyond that i cant help you as the states only went up to 1992 before pulling out.
if theres anything i can do to help you out, please let me know and i'll see what i can do for ya.
if theres anything i can do to help you out, please let me know and i'll see what i can do for ya.
[quote="simplypv"]its a Strine thing and i just dont understand![/quote]
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
Australian F310 and F300 rear lower shock mounts are different. So if the USA only had wide tracks (ie F310), any shock listed to fit their Rocky will AFAIK not fit the narrow track Feroza F300.
Narrow track F300 have the stud at the top and eye at the bottom- F310 rear shocks are a stud at both ends IIRC?
Narrow track F300 have the stud at the top and eye at the bottom- F310 rear shocks are a stud at both ends IIRC?
David
Hummmm from all the info u guys have given me, I take it it's not gonna be easy to find the adjustable shocks. As I mentioned before, I replaced the rear stock shocks with Kyaba Gas Shock absorvers "Super", model 344105, I saved both adjuster motors just in case one day I could find the the original replacements.
We have 2 Daihatsu distributors in the island, but they both have very little parts for the Feroza, last year I had to do some mayor work on the engine and I dont even whant to begin to describe what a nightmare it was to find the parts I needed. Some parts needed to be made in a dye shop (think thats how u call them).
Next time I have a mayor engine problem, im just gonna replace the whole engine with an US ROCKY engine.
If I can take some time off work this week, I plan on going to the KYB distributor, see what he can come up with, if not, then im afraid i'll just have to replace my front shocks with KYB non adjustables and forget about the dampening
Hey PV, since u are closest to me....do you know where I might be able to find those plastic hub centers that come with the Rocky and Feroza, the one's with the big D???? and also, need to replace my Clinometer (or to fix it, if it's fixable), I know it's the same as the Rocky. A guy here has like Rocky 3 dashboards , he says he cant sell me the clino, that if I want that meter I need to buy the whole dash....what a fruit.
Again, thanks for the help and support guys.....tomorrow it's back to the mechanic for the 5th time, he replaced my whole clutch system, fixed my front diferential (now I have 4 x 4 again....YESSSSSSSSSSSSSS......Don't ask how it broke, but u can thank my wife for that) and now oil is leaking form the transmission ...Bahhh HUMBUG.
Later guys and remember, B good, B safe, but never B sorry.
JJ
We have 2 Daihatsu distributors in the island, but they both have very little parts for the Feroza, last year I had to do some mayor work on the engine and I dont even whant to begin to describe what a nightmare it was to find the parts I needed. Some parts needed to be made in a dye shop (think thats how u call them).
Next time I have a mayor engine problem, im just gonna replace the whole engine with an US ROCKY engine.
If I can take some time off work this week, I plan on going to the KYB distributor, see what he can come up with, if not, then im afraid i'll just have to replace my front shocks with KYB non adjustables and forget about the dampening
Hey PV, since u are closest to me....do you know where I might be able to find those plastic hub centers that come with the Rocky and Feroza, the one's with the big D???? and also, need to replace my Clinometer (or to fix it, if it's fixable), I know it's the same as the Rocky. A guy here has like Rocky 3 dashboards , he says he cant sell me the clino, that if I want that meter I need to buy the whole dash....what a fruit.
Again, thanks for the help and support guys.....tomorrow it's back to the mechanic for the 5th time, he replaced my whole clutch system, fixed my front diferential (now I have 4 x 4 again....YESSSSSSSSSSSSSS......Don't ask how it broke, but u can thank my wife for that) and now oil is leaking form the transmission ...Bahhh HUMBUG.
Later guys and remember, B good, B safe, but never B sorry.
JJ
Nice to see another person from the Caribbean with a Feroza.
Ok I am trying to modify the suspension for off0roading, i have read alot of tech tips here at warfs but.... finding a supplier, finding the parts and then getting a price is dificult.
I wish to put on a suspension kit to raise the body about 2". i was told TJM had them but ..... I ant find the product number etc....... maybe I should start smaller with what are the best replacible shocks - i was told RANCHO but I have used Koni on my previous compotition cars and know they are good but $$$
Well I look forward to your help.
Ok I am trying to modify the suspension for off0roading, i have read alot of tech tips here at warfs but.... finding a supplier, finding the parts and then getting a price is dificult.
I wish to put on a suspension kit to raise the body about 2". i was told TJM had them but ..... I ant find the product number etc....... maybe I should start smaller with what are the best replacible shocks - i was told RANCHO but I have used Koni on my previous compotition cars and know they are good but $$$
Well I look forward to your help.
TJM do make a kit for both wide and narrow track- which do you have? Be careful as a lot of lift kits are heavy duty and will make the rear way too hard (ie it could be worse off road apart from having the extra clearance; plus your ride will be very uncomfortable.) My springs were like that, and I believe Dave's TJM one's are very hard too.
Do your lift first and then get shocks to suit- or else you may find the new shocks aren't long enough in the rear after you do the springs.
Do your lift first and then get shocks to suit- or else you may find the new shocks aren't long enough in the rear after you do the springs.
David
Hello Banjan....waht part of the caribbean are u in????
BTW, I found a mechanic who used to work for one of the Daihatsu distributors in the Island; besides having his own shop, he has also specialized in importing a lot of Rocky parts from the states and Feroza parts from Japan ( so he says), he also buys junked or crashed Ferozas...soooo, he does seems to have quite a lot of parts, specially engines, transmisson, differentials, etc. Actually a lot of folks from Latin America are buying from him, so since u are in the same region, this guy can be an option if u ever need any parts.
Regards,
George
BTW, I found a mechanic who used to work for one of the Daihatsu distributors in the Island; besides having his own shop, he has also specialized in importing a lot of Rocky parts from the states and Feroza parts from Japan ( so he says), he also buys junked or crashed Ferozas...soooo, he does seems to have quite a lot of parts, specially engines, transmisson, differentials, etc. Actually a lot of folks from Latin America are buying from him, so since u are in the same region, this guy can be an option if u ever need any parts.
Regards,
George
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=7345BajanFeroza wrote:I will get to the meat - i need some web sites with part numbers.
Come one folks help a feroza owner out. Wear can I find engine & suspension parts.
Brett
David
Justa quick note to THANX to everyone who has helped this guy all the way out in the poor little Caribbean.
I am very glad I made a decission to stay with our Feroza and not switch vehical types like what everyone else has done. You have been very helpful.
the info you have given me has made me a PAIN in my mechanics (^% he wants to know why I did not do the work myself if I have all this knowledge. - Told him i dont like getting grease on my hands - .
Still getting alot of difficulty actually find a place that has what i need. The caribbean is FAR away freight is &^%^%)*&^&% .
Anyway we will pervail
I am very glad I made a decission to stay with our Feroza and not switch vehical types like what everyone else has done. You have been very helpful.
the info you have given me has made me a PAIN in my mechanics (^% he wants to know why I did not do the work myself if I have all this knowledge. - Told him i dont like getting grease on my hands - .
Still getting alot of difficulty actually find a place that has what i need. The caribbean is FAR away freight is &^%^%)*&^&% .
Anyway we will pervail
I think that is the least I can do Murc since everyone here has been so helpful, specially you.
I will try to be as clear as possible and Dave, please feel free to modify anything in order to make it more clear.
A few months ago I got on my Feroza and when I looked at my clinometer, instead of the usual numbers I found myself staring at a white face. A few days later I took apart the clino to see if I could spot the problem, at first I thought that it could be an electrical problem, but these meters are not electrical, then after studying it for a bit, I came to the conclusion that the problem was that some weight, inside the sphere, must have become dislocated and caused the meter to loose it's balance. I decided to leave it at that, since I was not going to try to take apart the sphere in order to repair it, I decided it was too much trouble and what if I couldn’t glue the two halves of the sphere again? I was going to end up with a hole in the middle of my dash...no way, too much of a risk.
This past Sunday, after a big branch fell through my front windshield and came to rest on my dashboard, exactly on top of my inclinometer, thus causing the bezel to break and spill the oil inside the bezel, I decided to take a risk and try to repair it once and for all.
Before I explain how I repaired my clino, please download and read the Section BE-Body electrical system manual, page 106. Here u will find a diagram of how the inclinometer works and it will help you understand better.
First of all, it was a fairly easy task, but u need PATIENCE.
If your inclinometer is turning all over the place and instead of the normal number display u find yourself facing a white dial, then this is for you.
There are tow basic parts for the meter, the first part is what I will call the bezel; this bezel is filled with silicon oil and contains the sphere that gives the inclination. The second part , as I mentioned before, is the sphere. This sphere is the one that gives the inclination of the vehicle.
Now the sphere is free to move up and down and vertically sideways, but IT SHOULD NOT MOVE HORIZONTALLY SIDE WAYS, if it does move horizontally sideways, then you will end up having the white face (the white face you see is the back of the sphere).
In the back of the sphere there is a Vertical channel; now the in the back , exactly in the center, of the Bezel there is a plastic pin that slides inside the Horizontal Channel in the sphere, this pin is what let's the sphere move in the directions I mentioned before but at the same time, it does not let the sphere turn all the way around thus ending up with he white face. If u open up you meter and look carefully inside the Bezel you will probably see the plastic pin floating inside or stuck somewhere against the sphere and the outer bezel.
In case you bezel is still intact and your only problem is that the pin broke off; then it is fairly simple to repair. First of all, forget about the pin, since the only way to take it out is to make a hole in the bezel large enough for you to take out the pin and this is not worth it, we are still going to make a hole in the bezel but it will be a very small hole.
Turn the sphere around so u are looking at the back of it, there u will see the markings where the pin was attached to the sphere, now take a hold of a pin, the ones that the seamstress use (the type that have a flat head), and heat it up, push the pin into the bezel (turn the bezel so u push the pin onto it from the top as not to spill the oil inside) , it is important that u DONT PUSH THE PIN SO FAR IN THAT U PUNCTURE THE SPHERE. Once u have the hole made, u need to cut then pin to length since this pin is going to replace the original plastic pin. The new pin it has to be long enough so that is goes into the vertical channel and short enough that u don’t puncture the sphere (if u do puncture the sphere, the oil inside the bezel is going to leak inside of it). Once your think u have the right measurement, use your finger to keep the new pin in place and move the meter around, see if the vertical channel can come loose from the pin, if it does then you need to make the pin a bit longer....I said u needed patience didn't I..lol....once you have the right size and the pin stays in place inside the vertical channel after moving the meter around a few times, then u can use some type of instant glue , in my case I used a product called crazy glue, since the hole u made is small enough (hopefully) that the pin is snug, once u push it all the way in, the flathead from the pin will make a nice plug and with the instant glue on it, you can be sure no oil is going to leak. For extra measure , once the instant glue is dry , u can use epoxy on top of the pin head, in my case I only used instant glue. Try to use an instant glue that has Cyanocrilate (think that's how u spell it), the more it has and the more pure it is, the better it is; model RCA airplane builders should now what I’m talking about. Once that is done, you are ready to install the Clinometer.
For those of you that, for some odd reason, your bezel has leaked out the silicon oil, use the instant glue to fix the cracks (be careful, these types of glues tend to leave a white stain on clear plastic). In case you have a hole to plug, u can use instant glue mixed with bicarbonate. Cover the hole with bicarbonate and drop the instant glue into it, in a few seconds the bicarbonate will be as hard as a rock, the nice part is that u can sand it into shape. I recommend that u practice with the mixture so u can get an idea of how it works before u actually do it on the Bezel.
In case u need to refill the bezel with oil, in my case I used Hoppe's gun oil and it works just fine. U can use an insulin syringe since they have a small needle and can fit into the hole u made with the pin....but let me warn u, since the oil is thick and the needle is narrow, you will need to make quite an effort to get the oil out of the syringe and one more thing, CAREFUL WITH THE SYRENGE NEEDLE SO U DONT PUNCTURE THE SPEHERE. Once u fill the Bezel with the oil, just fallow the steps I mentioned before.
Well I do hope this can be of some help to someone out there....btw, I did my repair about a week or two ago and my inclinometer is working fine and the best part...NO OIL LEAKS...one last thing, I must thank my wife since she was the one who had the idea in the first place....I already had my dremmel out and was about to cut the bezel into two halves when she stepped in...THANK GOD SHE DID.
Cheers to all !!!!!
George
I will try to be as clear as possible and Dave, please feel free to modify anything in order to make it more clear.
A few months ago I got on my Feroza and when I looked at my clinometer, instead of the usual numbers I found myself staring at a white face. A few days later I took apart the clino to see if I could spot the problem, at first I thought that it could be an electrical problem, but these meters are not electrical, then after studying it for a bit, I came to the conclusion that the problem was that some weight, inside the sphere, must have become dislocated and caused the meter to loose it's balance. I decided to leave it at that, since I was not going to try to take apart the sphere in order to repair it, I decided it was too much trouble and what if I couldn’t glue the two halves of the sphere again? I was going to end up with a hole in the middle of my dash...no way, too much of a risk.
This past Sunday, after a big branch fell through my front windshield and came to rest on my dashboard, exactly on top of my inclinometer, thus causing the bezel to break and spill the oil inside the bezel, I decided to take a risk and try to repair it once and for all.
Before I explain how I repaired my clino, please download and read the Section BE-Body electrical system manual, page 106. Here u will find a diagram of how the inclinometer works and it will help you understand better.
First of all, it was a fairly easy task, but u need PATIENCE.
If your inclinometer is turning all over the place and instead of the normal number display u find yourself facing a white dial, then this is for you.
There are tow basic parts for the meter, the first part is what I will call the bezel; this bezel is filled with silicon oil and contains the sphere that gives the inclination. The second part , as I mentioned before, is the sphere. This sphere is the one that gives the inclination of the vehicle.
Now the sphere is free to move up and down and vertically sideways, but IT SHOULD NOT MOVE HORIZONTALLY SIDE WAYS, if it does move horizontally sideways, then you will end up having the white face (the white face you see is the back of the sphere).
In the back of the sphere there is a Vertical channel; now the in the back , exactly in the center, of the Bezel there is a plastic pin that slides inside the Horizontal Channel in the sphere, this pin is what let's the sphere move in the directions I mentioned before but at the same time, it does not let the sphere turn all the way around thus ending up with he white face. If u open up you meter and look carefully inside the Bezel you will probably see the plastic pin floating inside or stuck somewhere against the sphere and the outer bezel.
In case you bezel is still intact and your only problem is that the pin broke off; then it is fairly simple to repair. First of all, forget about the pin, since the only way to take it out is to make a hole in the bezel large enough for you to take out the pin and this is not worth it, we are still going to make a hole in the bezel but it will be a very small hole.
Turn the sphere around so u are looking at the back of it, there u will see the markings where the pin was attached to the sphere, now take a hold of a pin, the ones that the seamstress use (the type that have a flat head), and heat it up, push the pin into the bezel (turn the bezel so u push the pin onto it from the top as not to spill the oil inside) , it is important that u DONT PUSH THE PIN SO FAR IN THAT U PUNCTURE THE SPHERE. Once u have the hole made, u need to cut then pin to length since this pin is going to replace the original plastic pin. The new pin it has to be long enough so that is goes into the vertical channel and short enough that u don’t puncture the sphere (if u do puncture the sphere, the oil inside the bezel is going to leak inside of it). Once your think u have the right measurement, use your finger to keep the new pin in place and move the meter around, see if the vertical channel can come loose from the pin, if it does then you need to make the pin a bit longer....I said u needed patience didn't I..lol....once you have the right size and the pin stays in place inside the vertical channel after moving the meter around a few times, then u can use some type of instant glue , in my case I used a product called crazy glue, since the hole u made is small enough (hopefully) that the pin is snug, once u push it all the way in, the flathead from the pin will make a nice plug and with the instant glue on it, you can be sure no oil is going to leak. For extra measure , once the instant glue is dry , u can use epoxy on top of the pin head, in my case I only used instant glue. Try to use an instant glue that has Cyanocrilate (think that's how u spell it), the more it has and the more pure it is, the better it is; model RCA airplane builders should now what I’m talking about. Once that is done, you are ready to install the Clinometer.
For those of you that, for some odd reason, your bezel has leaked out the silicon oil, use the instant glue to fix the cracks (be careful, these types of glues tend to leave a white stain on clear plastic). In case you have a hole to plug, u can use instant glue mixed with bicarbonate. Cover the hole with bicarbonate and drop the instant glue into it, in a few seconds the bicarbonate will be as hard as a rock, the nice part is that u can sand it into shape. I recommend that u practice with the mixture so u can get an idea of how it works before u actually do it on the Bezel.
In case u need to refill the bezel with oil, in my case I used Hoppe's gun oil and it works just fine. U can use an insulin syringe since they have a small needle and can fit into the hole u made with the pin....but let me warn u, since the oil is thick and the needle is narrow, you will need to make quite an effort to get the oil out of the syringe and one more thing, CAREFUL WITH THE SYRENGE NEEDLE SO U DONT PUNCTURE THE SPEHERE. Once u fill the Bezel with the oil, just fallow the steps I mentioned before.
Well I do hope this can be of some help to someone out there....btw, I did my repair about a week or two ago and my inclinometer is working fine and the best part...NO OIL LEAKS...one last thing, I must thank my wife since she was the one who had the idea in the first place....I already had my dremmel out and was about to cut the bezel into two halves when she stepped in...THANK GOD SHE DID.
Cheers to all !!!!!
George
Caribbean Guy wrote:I think that is the least I can do Murc since everyone here has been so helpful, specially you.
I will try to be as clear as possible and Dave, please feel free to modify anything in order to make it more clear.
And here it starts, nice breakdown, consise and imformative... ow i need for it to break ............
keep up the good work lads
George
Dance, like nobody's watching (As usual)
Sing, Like their all deaf (Thank god)
Live,
SPEND, because you can't take it with you. (live in DEBT)
Sing, Like their all deaf (Thank god)
Live,
SPEND, because you can't take it with you. (live in DEBT)
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