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New patrol
New patrol
I upgraded from my MQ on the weekend to a LWB GQ.
Im planning for 4inch lift and running 35's. How extensive will the gaurd chopping be? Should i just get 6 inch and not bother cutting?
Want to also cut out the roof behind front seats. Leave some room for seats to move. I was going to put a sheet of steel behind with a window to seal of cab. Is this the best way?
Plans are to seal in the edges with more sheet metal. With the rear gate im thinkn of leaving the original barn doors but down the track might put an MQ styled gate on.
Also i was wondering what this stabiliser dissconnect is? does it do any good. Its really stifff to pull out...
cheers hears some pics
Im planning for 4inch lift and running 35's. How extensive will the gaurd chopping be? Should i just get 6 inch and not bother cutting?
Want to also cut out the roof behind front seats. Leave some room for seats to move. I was going to put a sheet of steel behind with a window to seal of cab. Is this the best way?
Plans are to seal in the edges with more sheet metal. With the rear gate im thinkn of leaving the original barn doors but down the track might put an MQ styled gate on.
Also i was wondering what this stabiliser dissconnect is? does it do any good. Its really stifff to pull out...
cheers hears some pics
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Gq patrol
Road Ranger
Re: New patrol
go 6" lift, cost is almost the same any wayterrytuffnut wrote:I upgraded from my MQ on the weekend to a LWB GQ.
Im planning for 4inch lift and running 35's. How extensive will the gaurd chopping be? Should i just get 6 inch and not bother cutting?
Want to also cut out the roof behind front seats. Leave some room for seats to move. I was going to put a sheet of steel behind with a window to seal of cab. Is this the best way?
Plans are to seal in the edges with more sheet metal. With the rear gate im thinkn of leaving the original barn doors but down the track might put an MQ styled gate on.
Also i was wondering what this stabiliser dissconnect is? does it do any good. Its really stifff to pull out...
cheers hears some pics
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Go 6
Yeah go a 6 inch lift but research before you buy my lift for my shorty is shagged after just over a years use ie; sagged in the ass end over an inch. Ask question's and work out what coil/shock combination you need.. Basically you want the bum in the air a bit...
There is a bloke up this way with a 6 inch lift and 35inch MTRS and it looks the business.
As you do the lift it wouldn't hurt to get slightly longer/stronger rear lower arms and adjustable rear upper arms. This is for strength and also to centralise the axle within the wheel arch and also to correct pinion angles, although your shaft may not vibrate it is important to have both the transfer and pinion uni's within 3 degrees of opposing each other else you shag your shaft..
And moving you axle back to stock position is necessary as you lift the car your wheelbase shortens bla bla and will alleviate most of the rubbing on full stuff..
Brake lines and panhard rods as well....
As for castor correction save your pennies and get drop arms.. or drop boxes steer clear of castor plates...
That is just my thoughts on the matter..
go the 6 inch
Cheers,
Jeremy..
There is a bloke up this way with a 6 inch lift and 35inch MTRS and it looks the business.
As you do the lift it wouldn't hurt to get slightly longer/stronger rear lower arms and adjustable rear upper arms. This is for strength and also to centralise the axle within the wheel arch and also to correct pinion angles, although your shaft may not vibrate it is important to have both the transfer and pinion uni's within 3 degrees of opposing each other else you shag your shaft..
And moving you axle back to stock position is necessary as you lift the car your wheelbase shortens bla bla and will alleviate most of the rubbing on full stuff..
Brake lines and panhard rods as well....
As for castor correction save your pennies and get drop arms.. or drop boxes steer clear of castor plates...
That is just my thoughts on the matter..
go the 6 inch
Cheers,
Jeremy..
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Plan is for
1.drop boxes $ 250 for a pair
2.coils 6 inch dobinsons $170 a pair
3.shocks Pro comp $125
This is all from 4wdstuff(shane)
Who should i get control arms off (price friendly) ?
cheers
took her for a maiden fourby today, lots of scraping and bottoming out.
I think that with 6 inch coils once i cut the rear of the roof off it should allow it to sit a little higher
1.drop boxes $ 250 for a pair
2.coils 6 inch dobinsons $170 a pair
3.shocks Pro comp $125
This is all from 4wdstuff(shane)
Who should i get control arms off (price friendly) ?
cheers
took her for a maiden fourby today, lots of scraping and bottoming out.
I think that with 6 inch coils once i cut the rear of the roof off it should allow it to sit a little higher
Last edited by scorched on Fri Jul 15, 2005 4:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Gq patrol
Front arms with new nissan bushes will set you back $650 to $750 dpending what you want , I got some of the New 2 Da Extreme arms , They are fantastic drives better than our ford, and flexs really well too, They are made from Bizloy, Same tuff dozer buckets are made from, If your interested shoot me a PM and Ill put you in touch with a supplier that will look after you.terrytuffnut wrote:Who should i get control arms off?
Darren
Oh yeah , Go the 6'' also........
Road Ranger
yeah, I would suggest getting the bizaloy arms, lighter than billet steel or cast and good hard waering properties, if I didn't have the drop boxes I would get these for the few exta $$The Big Green Meany wrote:Front arms with new nissan bushes will set you back $650 to $750 dpending what you want , I got some of the New 2 Da Extreme arms , They are fantastic drives better than our ford, and flexs really well too, They are made from Bizloy, Same tuff dozer buckets are made from, If your interested shoot me a PM and Ill put you in touch with a supplier that will look after you.terrytuffnut wrote:Who should i get control arms off?
Darren
Oh yeah , Go the 6'' also........
make sure you dont get the soft dobinsone, they say very quickly.
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Thinking of the wrong arms. The 3rd's Production arms have the swival similar to an 80series cruiser.The Big Green Meany wrote:Dont get the snake arms, Unless you are using the for offroad only. The snake ones have a pivett point in the rear of the arms taht csude a fari bit of vibration on the road.......
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Yeh I have just been down the old 6" inch lift road.
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/inde ... adid=10281
I probably would go for the kings (I don't think they make 6" though ???)A couple of blokes at work setting up their trucks for comp work have tried Dobinsons and wouldn't touch em now, he tried three different stiffnesses and was not happy??? Hight depends on what u long for in a vehicle, I'm going to settle for the 5" and limit up lift and extend down travel..seems to be ideal and works well with gravity..
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/inde ... adid=10281
I probably would go for the kings (I don't think they make 6" though ???)A couple of blokes at work setting up their trucks for comp work have tried Dobinsons and wouldn't touch em now, he tried three different stiffnesses and was not happy??? Hight depends on what u long for in a vehicle, I'm going to settle for the 5" and limit up lift and extend down travel..seems to be ideal and works well with gravity..
GQ TOURER
Thankful to be able to use the tracks that are left....SHEET where are they........
Thankful to be able to use the tracks that are left....SHEET where are they........
basically f150 yeah.
I need to fit dirt bike in the back. Plus i think it will look sweet and be a little different.
Sheet metal welded to the back of the cab seems to be the go.
Ill put in a floor. Hopefully be straight forward
I really dont know what im doing im just going to have a crack at it. might go see the hot rod guy around the corner. he is the "man who can". Probably be a good idea to let him weld and fabricate so i dont get the fish tank effect.
Im trying to do it on the cheap because im not cashed up at the moment.
the wish list is long
I need to fit dirt bike in the back. Plus i think it will look sweet and be a little different.
Sheet metal welded to the back of the cab seems to be the go.
Ill put in a floor. Hopefully be straight forward
I really dont know what im doing im just going to have a crack at it. might go see the hot rod guy around the corner. he is the "man who can". Probably be a good idea to let him weld and fabricate so i dont get the fish tank effect.
Im trying to do it on the cheap because im not cashed up at the moment.
the wish list is long
Gq patrol
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