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how do you remove the bolts (are they studs, i thought not) on rear 75 series cruiser diff that you bolt diff carrier to?
these are the 10 or so threaded bolts sticking out of axle assembly that you bolt diff onto. bottom 2 have dodgey threads, found when pulled diff out to check for wear. tried to bolt together and now lowest bolt wont do up, worried will leak oil out and run dry tried manual but no help there
There are also stud pullers you can use, but like Tojo said, the two nuts method also works well. Some people use a thread locking compound when they install these studs and heating the area with a torch would help release the thread locker.
You may first consider running a threading die on the stud first to restore the threads before you pull it. But if the stud is heavily damaged and you are going to replace it anyway, you may as well as use a pair of ViseGrips to grab the stud and turn it.
If the thread is not too buggered on the stud I would at least try the two nut method before reverting to the vise grips. Vise grips are good when all else fails….. but the only option after that is likely a drill and easy out or welding a tag onto the stud so you have more grip/purchase [or other bodgy acts…]
thanks for the replies fellas, will try the 2 nut method. used this to remove studs from wheel hub before finding this problem too, ready for 6 stud/6 dowell upgrade on rear end now.
the thread doesn't look to bad, but stud actually looks warped (like viewed from front on one side straight, the other curves in)
Dave, got your reply about shackle reversal, do you think enough play in steering arms for 25 forward move (think you said yours was 13mm).
Mine was 30 mm forward, and yes the steering arms had no problems with it as the tie rod ends were easily capable of the added angle. The anti sway bar was a bit difficult to fit as I did not move the chassis mounts. The rubber bushes, however, had enough flex to allow it to mount at a slight forward angle.
removed all studs today without to much trouble. even one of the stripped ones came out just using 2 nuts. last one, which was lowest one so worried might leak oil if not replaced I had to weld the nut on to remove the stud.
all looked good thru welding mask nice cherry red, took of and found rag protecting insides of diff on fire . guess oil soaked towell probably not best to use but ....
thanks fellas for replies, another job done on the might middy thanks to Oouterlimits members
tried manual but no help there 
. guess oil soaked towell probably not best to use but ....