hey guys,
the only thing i could on cv boots in the mistu section was this:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ghlight=cv
and whilst being somewhat helpful, i have a split cv boot, front left inner, my questions are:
-is it vital that it is replaced? im assuming so as sand and muck can get in and dramatically reduce the life of the cv...
-can i do it myself with the help of my dad whos a previous mechanic, as far as tools needed or antyhing?
-i asked my mechanic and he said hed have a look, but also said if he needs to split the driveshaft or take it out its gonna cost about 400 bucks??does this need to be done?
-as far as boots go, that thread is very helpful, but frank you said that blair, noisey, maybe had a source for genuine boots at a lesser cost, anything else on that?
i think thats about it guys, thanks heaps for your help
cheers, dean
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CV Boots
Moderator: -Scott-
Last time I was a "Consolidated Bearings" (CBC) in Victoria I had them look up CV boots for me. By memory and do not quote me on this there was something said about supplying Mitsu with boots. They are not expensive to buy except from Mitsu and are relatively easy (yet very dirty ) to replace.
You will need to break both upper and lower ball joints and remove the entire disc assembly. From there you can pull out the offending boot cv joint and replace the boot.
Take the time while you have all this to pieces to clean and grease the needle bearings at the back of the brake disk.
Replace the boot before you get too much crap in the joint as it will stuff you up later on (and only when you are far far far away from town)
You will need to break both upper and lower ball joints and remove the entire disc assembly. From there you can pull out the offending boot cv joint and replace the boot.
Take the time while you have all this to pieces to clean and grease the needle bearings at the back of the brake disk.
Replace the boot before you get too much crap in the joint as it will stuff you up later on (and only when you are far far far away from town)
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
cv
champions, might give it a crack on the weekend, my only other thing then, if i can get mistu ones for cost price from a mated dad who works in mitsu parts should i get them or just aftermarket ones??? and wheres best place to get aftermarket ones? can i just get them from repco or the like???
thanks heaps
thanks heaps
The mitsu ones are definately the best. Can you beleive that i still have an original mitsu boot on my right outer shaft and its been there since the day they put the car together. In comparison every other boot has been replaced at least twice but only with repco boots. Piece of cake job, just really messy. Be careful not to lose any bits. You may be able to do it with only cracking the top balljoint but that might only be on the right side(longer shaft). See how you go. Oh you might need a wedge or balljoint puller tool to split them depending how long they been together for. They can be expensive but I found a set cheap at either repco or super cheap. Do you have manual hubs on the front? If you don't you should cause they will make your boots last 100 times longer as they aren't spinning when just on bitchumen and in 2wd. It just so happens that i am selling some, see my other post.
mike.
mike.
Few years ago I made this write up on the procedure. You might find it useful
http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/inner_cv/
http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/inner_cv/
92 Montero SR, 285/75R16(33-11.50/R16) Yokohama MT on 16X8 Eagle 149 alloys, brush guard, Rear ARB, GAST air compressor, AirLift 1000, OME. MileMarker 10500
2002 GL, 285/75R16 SuperSwamper TruXus MT
2002 GL, 285/75R16 SuperSwamper TruXus MT
cv
thanks heaps for your time guys, finished the job with my dad this morning, all went sweet, same as most cvs weve dpone before, just a bit harder to break the lower ball joint, just had to use a bit more force, and also raised the lower arm off the joint and all went sweet, so hes ready to go, and the new bullbar is on, photos to come, thanks heaps to alex for the help and to mike for the bullbar
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