Hope you can help.
I went 4wding (as you do) in my Paj 2 weeks ago and i went through a large section of mud and water. Cutting a long story short, my alternator shut down.
I just spent $500 bucks at the shop to get a new one and installed. Friggen annoyed cos my mate just told me that off the shelf they are only $200.
ANYWAY........my question to you is, is there any way of protecting it so no or little mud gets to it? Or is their a way you can flush the baby out, what spray should i use??
Thanks guys
Timmy
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Alternator Question
Moderator: -Scott-
On my 3lt V6 the alternator is nice and high so no prob's untill you really get wet. The diesel alternator is fitted about halfway down the block i think? I saw one at the auto electrics shop next door to my work the other week and it looked stuffed. I usually give mine a gentle wash with the hose and then a good spray of Inox. All fine so far.
Shorty Gen2, lots of stuff and more to come!
Damn that's expensive for a run of the mill alternator!!
It doesn't even have the vacuum pump on it which normally makes diesel Alernators exy!!
Might think a bit harder before the extra big mud holes now!
Rob
It doesn't even have the vacuum pump on it which normally makes diesel Alernators exy!!
Might think a bit harder before the extra big mud holes now!
Rob
96 Paj 2.8 TD 2" lift, Snorkel, LR Tank, Dual Batt, winch, 32 MTRs, RT tent and rack, polyairs etc
just had my alternator rebuilt for the second time in 4 months yesterday cost me $255 installed. first time was under warenty due to oil leaking into alternator (they dont like oil apparently) the dealer told me that it was the powersteering pump leaking into it and that they fixed it. car is now out of warenty and alternator died again- same thing oil ............................ turns out tappet cover gasket has a split in it and has done all along. its a very very small leak but enough to kill an alternator.
have any other triton owners had this problem?
have any other triton owners had this problem?
Guys,
Not much you can do to protect an alternator
Maybe a simple slash shield would help. Remember cooling
Most failures occur with 4wds due to grit and mid entering the housing
This lodges between the brushes and the commutoror. The commutotor is the copper section at on end of the armature (spinning bit)
Alot of money can be saved by recoditioning the alternator youself
Often a simply new bushes is all thats needed.
Back in the good old days when I was an apprentice sparky this was always a job for first years (pretty hard to stuff up when you do several a week)
short instructions-
1.When dissassembled check the lenght of the brushes if short replace (available from GOOD spare parts places less than $1 ea- do both)
2. Wash the lot. Electrosolve is best but warm soapy water will do
3.Check the commutator surface. The com is made up of several copper wedges around the shaft. These wedges provide electrical connection to the rotating windings which produce the charge thus any wear hear will result in ineffecient charging. If the surface of each wedge is uneven or scoured drop it do the auto electrician. He will skim the surface in a lathe to make it true once agian normally about $20
4.If the bearings are sloppy relace with new ones. If you don'ty have a press get the aouto elecky to do the when he is doing the commutator
5. Reassemble. This is the only trick. you must tie bits of cotton to the bushes and run them out through cooling holes in the housing. When sliding the housing with the bushes on pull the cotton to retract the busses allowing the to clear the comm.
First time will probally take half a day. After you done a couple it takes about 1 hour
Seems like a common problem. Mine is getting shot and needs doing. (Headlights increase when reving) When I pull it out I will post a pictorial of the reco
Cheers
Wayne
ps a starter motor is the same only it has additional a solenoid on top. The solenoid closes a set of contacts and throws the spur gear forward. New contacts can be purchased from GOOD spare parts joints
Not much you can do to protect an alternator
Maybe a simple slash shield would help. Remember cooling
Most failures occur with 4wds due to grit and mid entering the housing
This lodges between the brushes and the commutoror. The commutotor is the copper section at on end of the armature (spinning bit)
Alot of money can be saved by recoditioning the alternator youself
Often a simply new bushes is all thats needed.
Back in the good old days when I was an apprentice sparky this was always a job for first years (pretty hard to stuff up when you do several a week)
short instructions-
1.When dissassembled check the lenght of the brushes if short replace (available from GOOD spare parts places less than $1 ea- do both)
2. Wash the lot. Electrosolve is best but warm soapy water will do
3.Check the commutator surface. The com is made up of several copper wedges around the shaft. These wedges provide electrical connection to the rotating windings which produce the charge thus any wear hear will result in ineffecient charging. If the surface of each wedge is uneven or scoured drop it do the auto electrician. He will skim the surface in a lathe to make it true once agian normally about $20
4.If the bearings are sloppy relace with new ones. If you don'ty have a press get the aouto elecky to do the when he is doing the commutator
5. Reassemble. This is the only trick. you must tie bits of cotton to the bushes and run them out through cooling holes in the housing. When sliding the housing with the bushes on pull the cotton to retract the busses allowing the to clear the comm.
First time will probally take half a day. After you done a couple it takes about 1 hour
Seems like a common problem. Mine is getting shot and needs doing. (Headlights increase when reving) When I pull it out I will post a pictorial of the reco
Cheers
Wayne
ps a starter motor is the same only it has additional a solenoid on top. The solenoid closes a set of contacts and throws the spur gear forward. New contacts can be purchased from GOOD spare parts joints
Last edited by fool_injected on Sat Oct 22, 2005 1:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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