um im 16 in a couple of months and wondering how much i should pay for a 1st zook looking around $1500-$2500.
what will i get for this???
any help much appreciated
kyle p
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zuk in wa
zuk in wa
waiting for another project....................
i got my zook for 1500.....with bout 2 or 3 months rego so i payed bout 300-400 or so for insurance n stuff. it is an 86 softtop with a fibre glass canope. and i bought the 30inch muds for 250 of this board.. thats bout it.
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you get what you pay for though..
check out the bible thread for info on what to look for when buying (rusty sills etc)
i payed $7300 4 years ago for my 92 softy - but it was IMMACULATE, high K's cos owner drove to NSW and back but thats all. its been very trouble free - anything broken on it has always been through my own fault =)
there was one on Erindale Rd in Hamersley - blue WT softy, not sure how much they wanted for it but it was tidy. might still be there. otherwise check out premier suzuki in osborne park - haggle them RIIIIGHT down though. mine was marked for $10,900.
check out the bible thread for info on what to look for when buying (rusty sills etc)
i payed $7300 4 years ago for my 92 softy - but it was IMMACULATE, high K's cos owner drove to NSW and back but thats all. its been very trouble free - anything broken on it has always been through my own fault =)
there was one on Erindale Rd in Hamersley - blue WT softy, not sure how much they wanted for it but it was tidy. might still be there. otherwise check out premier suzuki in osborne park - haggle them RIIIIGHT down though. mine was marked for $10,900.
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Bought mine from the trading post for $700. it had a bit of rust but gave me something to do for a few weeks, only had to spend $200 on it to pass the roadworthy.
All up i have spent $3200 and this is what i have ended up with.
I think the best way to save money is to do all the work yourself, since you are young it will be a good project and does give you some satisfaction in having a vehicle that you have made it be.
Simon...
All up i have spent $3200 and this is what i have ended up with.
I think the best way to save money is to do all the work yourself, since you are young it will be a good project and does give you some satisfaction in having a vehicle that you have made it be.
Simon...
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Hookers are like bowling balls, You pick them up, put your fingers in them, then throw them in the gutter and they come back for more.
thanx 4 ya help guys ill b looking in the quokka (4wd bible) hard.
wen i get mine ill b doing a spoa with lux rears reversed with sum extended shackles to have som nice flex happeningand also to keep up with some of the guys. as u can c i am young so yeah mostly little or no money spent only cheap mods and the most expensive thing will only b a god set of re-tread mongrels or muddies.
it dont matter if it has rust in a couple of years it will msot probably become a ute, to extend the wheel base.
kyle p
wen i get mine ill b doing a spoa with lux rears reversed with sum extended shackles to have som nice flex happeningand also to keep up with some of the guys. as u can c i am young so yeah mostly little or no money spent only cheap mods and the most expensive thing will only b a god set of re-tread mongrels or muddies.
it dont matter if it has rust in a couple of years it will msot probably become a ute, to extend the wheel base.
kyle p
Last edited by suzi_on_46s on Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
waiting for another project....................
tripod, bazooked and dewse ran spoa in wa, so i will have to talk to themsmall talk wrote:I thort that WA frowned apon SPOA and chassis extensions ect?? watch out with that youll spend all the money and time and get an ilegal toy that you have to trailer arround. QLD suks like that too so i stayed SPUA.
Brock
kyle p
waiting for another project....................
thinking about paying round about that much, then i can gets tyres quicker of springs.84ZOOKSTA wrote:Bought mine from the trading post for $700. it had a bit of rust but gave me something to do for a few weeks, only had to spend $200 on it to pass the roadworthy.
Simon...
kyle p
waiting for another project....................
kyle - i very strongly recommend you buy the zuk stock, maybe fit some 215/75's and learn how to drive it (ie: a year) without too much modification (2" springs, good shocks etc, some exhaust work, but not much else) - learn what it is capable of, what it doesnt like, just the general feel of the car. theyre a very different animal to anything ive ever driven, and you dont want to go modifying it to realise you really didnt need to be eye height to the traffic lights etc...
what im saying really is, dont get caught up in modifying it too far too fast.
oh and bazooked and dewse ran SPOA but never registered it / had it engineered - not sure about tripod. anything running over 6" lift in WA will NOT pass pits. and the 6" includes tyres!!! that means 4" lift and 31's is the max you can run... so SPOA and 30's if SPOA is what you want.
engineering mods is also a bastard... need to do about 15 pages of paperwork, write a cover letter, wait 6 months for them to get back to you with initial approval if the mod is reasonable, then once the work is done you need an auto engineer to sign off on it (this may involve doing a lane change test and costs upwards of $1000 total)... and finally youll have to find an insurer who is willing to insure a P plater in a heavily modified vehicle.
ive had my zuk for nearly 4 years and am only NOW starting to plan extensive mods - cash was a huge issue of course (blew a heap on putting a 1.6L engine in!). take your time, a stock zuk gets further than you'd think!
what im saying really is, dont get caught up in modifying it too far too fast.
oh and bazooked and dewse ran SPOA but never registered it / had it engineered - not sure about tripod. anything running over 6" lift in WA will NOT pass pits. and the 6" includes tyres!!! that means 4" lift and 31's is the max you can run... so SPOA and 30's if SPOA is what you want.
engineering mods is also a bastard... need to do about 15 pages of paperwork, write a cover letter, wait 6 months for them to get back to you with initial approval if the mod is reasonable, then once the work is done you need an auto engineer to sign off on it (this may involve doing a lane change test and costs upwards of $1000 total)... and finally youll have to find an insurer who is willing to insure a P plater in a heavily modified vehicle.
ive had my zuk for nearly 4 years and am only NOW starting to plan extensive mods - cash was a huge issue of course (blew a heap on putting a 1.6L engine in!). take your time, a stock zuk gets further than you'd think!
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I'll back that - you gotta learn to walk before you can run!alien wrote:kyle - i very strongly recommend you buy the zuk stock, maybe fit some 215/75's and learn how to drive it (ie: a year) without too much modification (2" springs, good shocks etc, some exhaust work, but not much else) - learn what it is capable of, what it doesnt like, just the general feel of the car. theyre a very different animal to anything ive ever driven, and you dont want to go modifying it to realise you really didnt need to be eye height to the traffic lights etc...
You'll be an inexperienced driver as it is without having a hugely modified car. Drive it stock a lot before you do anything - find out what kinda terrain you wanna drive most then build your car to suit. I know what I wanted from my rig when I first got it and what I want from it now are worlds apart.
hey bazooked is right... dewse wasnt SPOA:
Like oldgold said: figure out what it is you want to drive. i started off on the beach all the time doing dunes n stuff - now i hate that terrain and prefer a mud/rock combo. Mundaring/Sawyers for example rather than lancelin/alkimos.
Like oldgold said: figure out what it is you want to drive. i started off on the beach all the time doing dunes n stuff - now i hate that terrain and prefer a mud/rock combo. Mundaring/Sawyers for example rather than lancelin/alkimos.
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nice zuk m8 yeh i dont have enough skills but yeh got me old dad and yeh got some skills and can egt his hands on resources.
yeh looking thru the members section seeing the holden drover in there i will do sumthing along the lines of that
spoa with flat springs enough to run 30-32`s
then in the future add some extended shackles
kyle p
yeh looking thru the members section seeing the holden drover in there i will do sumthing along the lines of that
spoa with flat springs enough to run 30-32`s
then in the future add some extended shackles
kyle p
waiting for another project....................
fdsfdsafadsf
suzi on 46s, i was just wondering why you are so keen on SPOA. i'm not having a stab at you either. i know the pro's and con's of SPOA, and my mate is considering it, but why are you so keen on it?
my mate has 31"s, SPUA still, 3-leaf leaf packs, and it drives a lot of stuff, and flexes good too. just need some good shocks to match. with 2 leaves in the rear packs, he gets a lot or wrap. so with SPOA, i'm guessing you will need a track bar, as well as front and rear drive-shaft spacers, and extended brake-lines.
i drive a Vitara, so i'm no expert with Sierras, but sensible and practical mods will always prevail.
Cheers
my mate has 31"s, SPUA still, 3-leaf leaf packs, and it drives a lot of stuff, and flexes good too. just need some good shocks to match. with 2 leaves in the rear packs, he gets a lot or wrap. so with SPOA, i'm guessing you will need a track bar, as well as front and rear drive-shaft spacers, and extended brake-lines.
i drive a Vitara, so i'm no expert with Sierras, but sensible and practical mods will always prevail.
Cheers
1995 Vitara:
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
SPOA will yeild alot more flex, and you can use flat springs (soft)... thats about the only reason to run SPOA in my opinion. however technically, running longer leaves achieves the same thing. hence me opting for lux fronts all round. if the zuk diff give 4.5" lift on flat leaves, i cant run more than a 30" tyre to have it engineered and therefore insured. so its not really an option.
also - a 32" tyre is HUGE on a zuk. like we've said before, take it slow - plan all your lift and stuff for a year or so after you buy it - use that time to research and save $$$ for it. ive been planning and researching for mine for almost a year now.
also - a 32" tyre is HUGE on a zuk. like we've said before, take it slow - plan all your lift and stuff for a year or so after you buy it - use that time to research and save $$$ for it. ive been planning and researching for mine for almost a year now.
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But he is G H E Ybazooked wrote:dewse aint spoa
Oldgold the saying is you gotta learn to crawl before you can walk. You Dudelux!
Zuk on 26’s… SPOA is illegal so I think you should look at something different and maybe a little easier to reverse. Tripod payed 2000 for his spoa, which is about what you will pay. Now I’m guessing you will want to fit tires later. In my experience I would recommend a 31 max for a standard wheel base (with perches drilled). Personally I would go a 2â€
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Dewse's got the idea, im guessing you know him personally, WA one big happy Family 
31's kind of the best size on zuk diffs unless you want to gear it and run tuffer diffs, whick is alot messing around. This will sounds super Grimace but build it reliable!! and youll have the most fun of all, because you'll be the one driving home insead of being towed home. 2in BL, extnded shackels, and run shocks to suit, with a set of 30 mudders. mabe a cig rear locker. just ideas too your rig
Brock.
31's kind of the best size on zuk diffs unless you want to gear it and run tuffer diffs, whick is alot messing around. This will sounds super Grimace but build it reliable!! and youll have the most fun of all, because you'll be the one driving home insead of being towed home. 2in BL, extnded shackels, and run shocks to suit, with a set of 30 mudders. mabe a cig rear locker. just ideas too your rig Brock.
1984 Hilux dualcab.
Yeah small talk I know him personally. Apparently he has a hot sister which I’m eagerly waiting to meet : ). It’s not hard to know every wheeler in WA coz there is so few of us.
I still think you need to gear down with any tire change. Gears are the best mod you can do! IMO
I still think you need to gear down with any tire change. Gears are the best mod you can do! IMO
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Would prefer your missusbazooked wrote:ahhahaah dewse is . cause his zook is showin its ass of for who ever wants it...
I rolled it on purpose so everyone could see....... damn those springs were thin when I first started running them. I ended up putting the load leaves in the rear. It could have done with some more in the front as well.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
But he is G H E YDeWsE wrote:bazooked wrote:dewse aint spoa
Oldgold the saying is you gotta learn to crawl before you can walk. You .!
Zuk on 26’s… SPOA is illegal so I think you should look at something different and maybe a little easier to reverse. Tripod payed 2000 for his spoa, which is about what you will pay. Now I’m guessing you will want to fit tires later. In my experience I would recommend a 31 max for a standard wheel base (with perches drilled). Personally I would go a 2â€
waiting for another project....................
Mine was 3.8K with 29" mudders, but im in tasmania and they are a lot more expensive.
I have the 2" body lift, 2" suspension shackles and 31" mongrels, goes and looks tough hehe. Spent a lot more on fixing running gear than anything else so you gota remember those too, i have done all 4 wheel bearings and brakes, engine rebuild, alternator.. all quite expensive when u have to pay someone to do them :/ The clutch is on the way out atm im sure too....
I have the 2" body lift, 2" suspension shackles and 31" mongrels, goes and looks tough hehe. Spent a lot more on fixing running gear than anything else so you gota remember those too, i have done all 4 wheel bearings and brakes, engine rebuild, alternator.. all quite expensive when u have to pay someone to do them :/ The clutch is on the way out atm im sure too....
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