Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Rod ends and stuff
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Rod ends and stuff
Looking for a rod end for my crossover steering setup. It has to be a tierod end that will fit into a 75series relayrod/draglink which should be the same (i think) as an 80 series. It has to be the same length as either the 75series driver's side relay rod end or the 80/100 series version. I got a 80/100 series today but the hole in my pitman arm 75 series is too large for the 80/100 rod end. If this is not possible I can get a different 75series pitman arm that has less length and a ball stud pressed into it and use a standard 75 series drivers's side relay rod end but I'd prefer to use the longer (and chunkier) 75 series arm that I have with a proper tierod end type joint for less play.
Or should I just get a 100 series arm to accept the 80/100 relay rod end?
Hope it made sense!
Or should I just get a 100 series arm to accept the 80/100 relay rod end?
Hope it made sense!
TEAM DGR WEBSITE
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
Nah, the bloke had a choice of 2 for me. One had a ball in it and the other had a tapered hole but was longer and beefier along the full length. And the bloke also mentioned that it would give easier steering although I cannot see how as more turning effort would be required to turn the wheels with the extra leverage. It would however make the steering more responsive and woudn't require the same amout of turning of the steering wheel to produce a similar effect at the wheels. Also had the advantage of using a tie rod end instead of the ball and cup arrangement. This would reduce play. And as this is the setup in the 80/100 series I thought it would be ok. Unfortunately, it looks like I'll either have to go back to your setup or chase up a 100 series arm.
Actually, now that i think about it, a 100 series will work. Richard uses these when he does a high steer setup as it allows him to use 80 series tie rod ends in his custom cromoly steering rods. Any one got a 100 series arm?
Actually, now that i think about it, a 100 series will work. Richard uses these when he does a high steer setup as it allows him to use 80 series tie rod ends in his custom cromoly steering rods. Any one got a 100 series arm?
TEAM DGR WEBSITE
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
beebee wrote:And the bloke also mentioned that it would give easier steering although I cannot see how as more turning effort would be required to turn the wheels with the extra leverage.
Never trust a Junkie!
BJ: But Hilux is different right? I ask because I have Hilux tapers shimmed to take 40 series joints. I intend to go to 60 series arms/joints/rods but may need to mix and match.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
Phone number BJ?
Yes Richard does have cromoly tie rods etc. Tie rod for hilux is $180 + $18 GST. Can be sized to fit either hilux or 80 series ends. He will also do draglinks but don't know about variations on price. Richard's business (for everyone else) is 4x4 Engineering at Acacia Ridge in Brisbane. He is very knowledgable and helpful. Contact 3344 1181
Hilux and 80 series rod ends are the same at the tapered pin but the thread going into the rod is different.
I just checked and the pitman arm I have has written on it HJ/FJ 75. It has a larger tapered hole than that required by either a 75 or 80 or hilux rod end. I just confirmed this.
Maybe I need a shim to reduce the hole to the required taper?
Yes Richard does have cromoly tie rods etc. Tie rod for hilux is $180 + $18 GST. Can be sized to fit either hilux or 80 series ends. He will also do draglinks but don't know about variations on price. Richard's business (for everyone else) is 4x4 Engineering at Acacia Ridge in Brisbane. He is very knowledgable and helpful. Contact 3344 1181
Hilux and 80 series rod ends are the same at the tapered pin but the thread going into the rod is different.
I just checked and the pitman arm I have has written on it HJ/FJ 75. It has a larger tapered hole than that required by either a 75 or 80 or hilux rod end. I just confirmed this.
Maybe I need a shim to reduce the hole to the required taper?
TEAM DGR WEBSITE
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
I'm not sure if I'm understanding this correctly, but it sounds like someone has just knocked the ball out of your pitman arm. I believe that the taper used for the ball insert thingy is larger that any of the Toy tie rod end tapers.
This doesn’t really help any, but I'm not sure you guys are talking about the same thing???
Paul.
This doesn’t really help any, but I'm not sure you guys are talking about the same thing???
Paul.
[size=100][color=yellow][b]
It's not what you buy, it's what you build.
[/b][/color][/size]
It's not what you buy, it's what you build.
[/b][/color][/size]
Thanks guys,
you were correct Paul. I was just trying to get around it by using a tie rod end instead of the ball and cup style. I was trying to eliminate as much play as possible to restore some sort of responsiveness to my steering. Today I went and got a new ball to suit the cupped end and tapered hole in the pitman arm. I consider it a small defeat as I still haven't got my no slop steering setup but at least it will work. Although this is only a temp setup so it's not that important. Thankyou everyone for your help!
you were correct Paul. I was just trying to get around it by using a tie rod end instead of the ball and cup style. I was trying to eliminate as much play as possible to restore some sort of responsiveness to my steering. Today I went and got a new ball to suit the cupped end and tapered hole in the pitman arm. I consider it a small defeat as I still haven't got my no slop steering setup but at least it will work. Although this is only a temp setup so it's not that important. Thankyou everyone for your help!
TEAM DGR WEBSITE
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests