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That's cool...I guess the whole world is up in arms on the XX and XY Chromozomes...
I was thinking about that as well, and was thinking that while redrilling the housing, I can make a filler plug higher up to make sure that the diff has more oil in it...
In "automotive" sense, is more lube negative? (I know that is "human" sense there is a point where more lube means no feeling )
Your thoughts...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
I dont think you will have a prob with late housings where the filler plug is in the housing not the centre. The high pinions when fitted to a cruiser still have the filler plug at the same level as a hilux does. The High pinion centre has an oil slinger fitted to throw the oil into the pinion.
If running toyota CVs in the front you dont need a custom short side inner axle. A 60series cruiser short side axle fits perfect as long as you either run the inner clip inside the cv or tac weld the spline at the diffcentre end to stop the axle sliding in to far.
HSV Rangie wrote:If you are using Toy Cvs then the front and rear drive flanges are different.
The front flange is a few mm thicker than the rears.
Michael.
This is correct but you can still use the rear flanges in the front you just need to make a spacer to go on before the c-clip or do what we did and run 3 c-clips.
Heres a pic of the front HP toy centre in the rover housing. You can see the drive flange with the extra holes and the extra shoulder machined in it to mate up to the stock rover drive shaft.
I just had another look through and I dont really have any other helpful pics to post. I guess it went together so easily that I didnt take any more pics.
One thing I would do is to use standard toyota diff housing studs when you redrill the rover hosing (as opposed to reusing the rover studs) I ended up reusing the rover studs and then I had to make the holes bigger in the new toy third (easy enough with a drill). But now if I want to replace the third I again have to make the holes bigger again.
If you use the smaller Toy studs when you redrill the rover housing then you can use a totally unmodified toy third member which would have to be a good thing.
Also when I sat the toy third onto the rover housing to mark the holes I put the axles in as well to make sure that everything was lined up perfectly.
Has anybody done this while the diffs were still in the car??? Mine were pulled out when I did them.
QUESTION - what has everybody done about the two holes that line up with the gap in the rover housing??? I ended up welding a nut and building it up with weld (I did this to use as a drain plug because I shaved the bottom of the diffs and cut off the origional drain bung) into the lower one and didnt worry about the top one (think I just siliconed a bolt into the third to stop the oil leaking out???
Heres a pic of the rear one and again you can see the flange and you can also see the bolt that I glued into the top hole. This bolt lines up with the gap in the rover housing (I guess the gap is there to fit the crownwheel through when installing the third) and so there is no metal behind this hole to put a stud into. On the bottom gap I welded it up and welded a nut into it so I could screw in a bolt.
If you still have a drain bung on the side of the rover housing then I guess the best thing to do with the gaps is to weld plate into them (both top and bottom) and then drill them to mount the studs.
Strange Rover wrote:QUESTION - what has everybody done about the two holes that line up with the gap in the rover housing??? I ended up welding a nut and building it up with weld (I did this to use as a drain plug because I shaved the bottom of the diffs and cut off the origional drain bung) into the lower one and didnt worry about the top one (think I just siliconed a bolt into the third to stop the oil leaking out???
Sam
i cut the head off a rover stud and pulled the splines in flush with a nut....
cant tell now
Thanks for everything. Gonan source the parts this month and do the transformation in June...hopefully the beadlocks and 36" IROKs will be here in time...
Thanks again.
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Searching the Tojo section, I was under the impression the LC80 was 4.1 where only the front C&P was appropriate and from what I understand should not be used in the rear, same with the LC100 with the 4.3 ratio's, and the 4.5+ ratio's were Hilux.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
Been searching on the subject as there is always talk on it. Dug this informative thread up for all the non searchers. Also wondering if the pics will come back up. Why dont they stay on the old threads?
Tdi200 wrote:Try here for pics on this conversion.
Grem
I have read through this thread and was wondering why he modified the diff housings soo much. I thought they only needed to be drilled to take the yota centers! Or is it just for strength not room!
Anyway just thought it was one of the betta write ups on this forum and thought a lot of people could get some good info out of it.
BIg StEvE wrote:was wondering why he modified the diff housings soo much.
The only extra mods he did were to add some weld so that the extra 2 studs could be added (that you usually can't include because of the cutout in the rover housing), and then to cut the diff pans off to "sewercap" them. Neither of these 2 mods are necessary.
BIg StEvE wrote:was wondering why he modified the diff housings soo much.
The only extra mods he did were to add some weld so that the extra 2 studs could be added (that you usually can't include because of the cutout in the rover housing), and then to cut the diff pans off to "sewercap" them. Neither of these 2 mods are necessary.
BIg StEvE wrote:was wondering why he modified the diff housings soo much.
The only extra mods he did were to add some weld so that the extra 2 studs could be added (that you usually can't include because of the cutout in the rover housing), and then to cut the diff pans off to "sewercap" them. Neither of these 2 mods are necessary.
Yeah thought as much! Is it true that the yota ring and pinion is slightly smaller therefore diff shaving could be an option even on flat bottom diffs?
Thinking a shaved rover diff with toy's, jacmacs and longfields would kick arse over Maxi's an even GQ's. Think of the clearence!
Anyway someone please crush my dreams if this is not possible!
BIg StEvE wrote:was wondering why he modified the diff housings soo much.
The only extra mods he did were to add some weld so that the extra 2 studs could be added (that you usually can't include because of the cutout in the rover housing), and then to cut the diff pans off to "sewercap" them. Neither of these 2 mods are necessary.
Yeah thought as much! Is it true that the yota ring and pinion is slightly smaller therefore diff shaving could be an option even on flat bottom diffs?
Thinking a shaved rover diff with toy's, jacmacs and longfields would kick arse over Maxi's an even GQ's. Think of the clearence!
Anyway someone please crush my dreams if this is not possible!
Yes toy ring is slightly smaller than rover.
Sam posted some pics of the housing he shaved when he did a toy conversion. IIRC he said it had more clearance than standard flat bottom housing.
)
