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Wanting to buy feroza any problems we should be aware of???

Tech Talk for Ford, Mazda, Daihatsu & Makes that currently dont have a home.

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Wanting to buy feroza any problems we should be aware of???

Post by yunnyjm »

Hi just new here and just wanted to ask we're looking at getting a feroza and just wondering what should we look for and what problems we should be aware of before when buying one we want to spend under $5000 it will be used as a second car to zip around the city we thought it will have a higher safety rating (for the driver) than a little hatchback lol:)
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Location: Oz

Post by senergy »

the FAQ's have some good links for buying a second hand Feroza.

Personally I wouldnt buy one that has done more then 200 000km unless they have regulary serviced the motor or just dropped in a new motor.
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Location: Mt Dandenong, Victoria

Post by DeVooluff »

senergy wrote:Personally I wouldnt buy one that has done more then 200 000km unless they have regulary serviced the motor or just dropped in a new motor.
Bah! That'd take all the fun out of it! :)
1996 XJ Jeep Cherokee - VERY red and VERY stock!
2001 KJ Jeep Cherokee - cooked her bad... sitting in the driveway!
[i]- ex Feroza man (eventually died on me) -[/i]
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Location: Brisbane Bayside

Post by drewe »

I just got mine 4 weeks ago, for 5K. bit scratched and dented in places, but no rust n crap

Bad news now.

Was using a bit of water - turns out it was all pourin into the head - gonne cost me over $1K to fix. Look under the oil cap for 'white' oil, and around the top of the head through the oil foller hole for the same.

After talking to some more people, the head warping por gasket going is a common thing, so look out for that. Other signs are oil in the water at the radiator. If you find that, chop at least 1K from the price - also had no feroza for two weeks now, won't be 'better' for anout half a week at least! Man!

Drewe
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Location: Adelaide

Post by murcod »

Get a full inspection done by your local NRMA / RACQ/ RAA/ RACV etc.

I sold a car recently and had an inspection done for an interstate buyer through the RAA. It was extremly thorough and would pick up 99% of problems. I watched the guy do the entire inspection and it took over two hours!
David
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Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2005 8:49 am

Post by yunnyjm »

thanks will try to remember all of this lol

still looking and browsing though for now as I'm not too mechanically minded the nrma report sounds really good but I'll definitely check the basics as all of you has recommended and when I find one then as murcod said get the nrma inspection done
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Post by murcod »

A lot of stuff you can check yourself eg:

-Look underneath at the front bash plate and the sill area under the doors for dents, this will tell you if it's been used off road a lot

-Check for oil leaks underneath the engine and gearbox/ transfer case area (transfer case is bolted onto the back of the gearbox and distributes drive to the front and rear diffs) Also check around diffs for oil leaks.

-Listen for any strange noises in the engine and gearbox when driving it - make sure you rev it out in at least 1 - 2 - 3.

-Check the servicing history

-Check the exhaust manifold and see if it has been replaced yet. They crack and guaranteed if it is the original cast iron one that it will be cracked. The cast iron one has a steel heatshield over it that will hide the cracks. If the manifold is made from steel tubing then it's already got extractors fitted (a bonus!) Budget ~$500 to get the manifold replaced if it needs doing. A whistling noise when driven is an indicator of an exhaust problem.

-Check the power steering pulley is tight and doesn't wobble. The centre bolt that holds the pulley onto the pump can come loose.

- Take it off road and lock the front hubs and check the 4WD light on the dash illuminates when 4WD is engaged. Drive it around a bit and make sure the 4WD works in low range and high range. Only engage 4WD on loose dirt surfaces- don't do it on hard packed or on road or something will blow!!

-Check for any fuel smells inside the cabin (particularly on hot days.) Some plumbing inside the rear right trim panel (behind the speaker) can leak fumes into the cabin. Not a hard one to fix.

-If there's no service history and you think it's a good one then get an inspection done. Then budget at least a couple of hundred $$$ for things like a timing belt change, general service and oil change (for everything including diffs, gearbox, transfer case etc) and get the valve clearances adjusted on the engine too.
David
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Post by yunnyjm »

thanks heaps for the advice listing I'll print it out and take it with me
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