Toyota centres

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 6:03 pm

looking at doing the toy centre conversion and just wondering on which locker to use, jacmac air operated, or vacuum operated, or ARB air locker. my motor doesn't produce manifold vacuum (desiel) so i have to rely on a vacuum pump.

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 6:26 pm

6.5 rangie wrote:looking at doing the toy centre conversion and just wondering on which locker to use, jacmac air operated, or vacuum operated, or ARB air locker. my motor doesn't produce manifold vacuum (desiel) so i have to rely on a vacuum pump.

Choice is yours...

ARB - every man and his dog have one, and they have been proven to be reliable over the years (almost impossible to break one), just the occasional seal problems, but most seem to be installation error. Disadvantages are that you need a lot of air pressure to work one, the light doesn't tell you if the locker is actually engaged (just that you have pressed the switch), and if you lose air pressure the locker will disengage.

JM - better design (no o-ring to get damaged and leak compressed air into the diff housing), but a lot fewer out there than the ARB.

IMO I like vacuum lockers - Minimal pressure to operate and they stay locked with no vacuum (you can lock and unlock just by sucking on the lines - handy if the vacuum pump/compressor fails if you are out in the bush). If the JM locker mechanism is like my MD locker, you can swap the lines around and run it from 15psi compressed air.

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:21 pm

JM air operated internal system.

IMO the best system.

next Maxidrive has external cyl.

arb internal but not as strong as the JM or maxi IMO.

MIchael.

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:38 pm

HSV Rangie, why the jm air over the vacuum?
(just bought a 80series hp so i'm starting to get bits and pieces together, might need to borrow that template, if thats ok)

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 9:28 pm

Only reason is that all is contained in the axle housing, no weld on cylinders.

other alternative is buy the one you can get a the best price.
JM or MD

Michael.

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 9:55 pm

little confused here, are you saying i can use MD locker in toy conversion?Also i have a hi-ace centre, i believe this is the same as the hi-lux(it was free) where can i get 4.1 gears, rather use new aftermarket gears in rear diff if they are stronger.

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:06 pm

6.5 rangie wrote:little confused here, are you saying i can use MD locker in toy conversion?Also i have a hi-ace centre, i believe this is the same as the hi-lux(it was free) where can i get 4.1 gears, rather use new aftermarket gears in rear diff if they are stronger.

You can apparently use an MD rover locker in the toy centre conversion if you really want to - you use a toy diff housing (carrier housing) - with the MD rover centre re-drilled to accept the toy crownwheel. You need special bearings and I think some machining on the centre. But you would only do this if you aready had the maxi-drive and you needed stronger ring and pinions.

But I think Michael was just comparing the different locker options, not the toy specific ones.

Post by **yella_rangie** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 1:03 pm

ok now i am slow and i am sure someone will flame me for this but....

to do a conversion and run 35 inch tyres i need a rear centre out of a hilux @ 4.1:1 ratio and a front high pinion centre out of a cruiser (80 series or 100 series) 4.1:1 ratio as well

just want to confirm i have this right as i am going to ring some local wreckers to get some diffs...

Post by **Slunnie** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 1:19 pm

If standard you run 29" tyres and then move to 35's, the gearing is about 4.3. 4.1 diffs will match standard to about 33" tyres.

4.3 rears will come from Hilux, and 4.3HP fronts will come from LC100's.

Post by **schuler** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 1:36 pm

Does anyone know if this mod is available through any business as a drive in drive out In Melbourne?

I have been thinking about maxis but this seems a far better option

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:05 pm

Jac mac will do it

toorak trac tor wil most likly do it.

Michael.

Post by **460cixy** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 2:29 pm

will 60 series centers work with this conversion? as i can get those cheap or does it have to be hilux?

Post by **DiscoDino** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 5:00 pm

AFAIK, the 60 series front would work on the front of your rover, but ther rear 60 is way too large and would not...for the rear, you have to go Hi-lux (or other Toy variants across the Globe)

Post by **460cixy** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 7:04 pm

well if thats the case i can get a 60 front diff for free and know there strong that only means i need to buy one diff

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 7:46 pm

DiscoDino wrote:AFAIK, the 60 series front would work on the front of your rover, but ther rear 60 is way too large and would not...for the rear, you have to go Hi-lux (or other Toy variants across the Globe)

60's have the same centre front and rear so they will NOT work with out serious mods

Post by **460cixy** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:50 pm

well dam shame that. crapy hilux craP it is then

Post by **DiscoDino** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 2:27 am

My bad...thought they ran the same 8" as the 80 and the Hilux??? weird...

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:29 am

460cixy wrote:well dam shame that. crapy hilux craP it is then

GQ front diff is a bolt in job. You just need to make a panhard and steering arm.

Post by **460cixy** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:59 am

Maggot4x4 wrote:
460cixy wrote:well dam shame that. crapy hilux craP it is then
GQ front diff is a bolt in job. You just need to make a panhard and steering arm.

how much of a pain is that?

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:40 pm

460cixy wrote:
Maggot4x4 wrote:
460cixy wrote:well dam shame that. crapy hilux craP it is then
GQ front diff is a bolt in job. You just need to make a panhard and steering arm.

how much of a pain is that?

It's easy as long as you get the nissan one, you'll alread have the rover one, and just sleve them. Nissan one end and rover the other.

Post by **460cixy** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:28 pm

so the nissan panhard is hollow? if thats the case it should be a real piss easy to do. i had a look at a gq at work and it all looked straight foward except that the steering and panhard are huge compared to the rover stuff. and if you can sleve the raver panhard in to the nissan one i guess it could also be made adjustable

Post by **cloughy** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 7:32 pm

HSV Rangie wrote:If you are in Melb

I have a template for drilling the RR housing to take toy centre.

Michael.

Still for rent??, i pay in beer

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:07 pm

460cixy wrote:so the nissan panhard is hollow? if thats the case it should be a real piss easy to do. i had a look at a gq at work and it all looked straight foward except that the steering and panhard are huge compared to the rover stuff. and if you can sleve the raver panhard in to the nissan one i guess it could also be made adjustable

Yes it is

Post by **460cixy** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:29 pm

whats the most commen nissan ratio 4.11:1? i guess i can get a toy rear with 4.11 as well

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:18 pm

460cixy wrote:whats the most commen nissan ratio 4.11:1? i guess i can get a toy rear with 4.11 as well

Yeah, most common is 4.1 or 3.9 80 Series cruiser is 4.11

Nissan also comes in 4.3 as do 100 series cruiser

Post by **shakes** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:50 am

slightly off topic but maybe relevant

if your using the nissan diff doesnt it then become a plow?

on most trips out in my patrol at one stage or another I was almost gurantee'd to be hung up on my diff's.. that was only on 33's however.

Simon

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:44 am

shakes wrote:slightly off topic but maybe relevant

if your using the nissan diff doesnt it then become a plow?

on most trips out in my patrol at one stage or another I was almost gurantee'd to be hung up on my diff's.. that was only on 33's however.

Simon

Who only runs 33's?

Post by **shakes** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:51 pm

only had a 2" lift in it too

but seriously... do you know how much you actually do lose?

Simon

Post by **swamp** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:52 pm

Working off factory tyre sizes and ground clearance
Nissan 265/75.16 radius of 401.95mm with 215mm clearance
Rover 235/75.16 radius of367.7mm with 215mm clearance
gives the rover housing 34.25 mm better clearance
which to compensate you increase tyre size by double 68.5mm
In the real world though the larger tyres have more benefits than just ground clearance.

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:08 pm

shakes wrote:

only had a 2" lift in it too

but seriously... do you know how much you actually do lose?

Simon

Chev 350, 35's, Rover diffs, 2" Springs no Bodylift

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