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SWB MAVERICK HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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SWB MAVERICK HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by mudmav »

HEY GUYS I HAVE A 89 SWB MAVERICK I HAVE READ ALL THE THREADS IN THE BIBLE AND LOOKED UNDER SEARCH BUT STILL NO GOOD


I HAVE 16MM EXTENDED TRAILING ARMS AND A 25MM GEAR BOX PACKER, ONLY RUNNING 3 INCH SPRING LIFT BUT STILL VIBRRATING LIKE A BITCH, SO WHAT NOW. i DONT QUITE UNDERSTAND HOW PUTTING AN ENGINE LIFT IN WILL HELP AS ITS THE REAR SHAFT VIBRATING. ONLY DOES IT BETWEEN 45-65KMH, DONT WANT A DC TAIL SHAFT HEARD LOTS OF BAD THINGS AND SEEEN A COUPLE OF THEM GO BANG. ANY ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!!!!!!!
andrewholmes
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Post by KIWI »

Perhaps too many packers? UJ need replacing? My swb has 12mm packers with a 3" lift and has a slight vibration.

Dave
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Post by JemmyBubbles »

Make sure both of the ouputs (Transfer & Pinion ) are running parallel or you can think of it as opposing each other. That is if one is pointing down at an angle of 23degrees (from horisontal the other on must be pointed up at 23 degrees from the horizon)

Maybe you have overadjusted and screwed up the opposing angles. I doubt you need the packers. The act of rolling the pinion down with the 16mm arms should be sufficient, as your diff rolls up when lifted..

I agree, try decreasing the amount of packers/get rid of them alltogether.

If the outputs are perfectly opposing each other and the truck still vibrates. Drop the shaft have a feel of the unis they may be shagged and in need of a rebuild..

You should get away with a standard shaft upto around 5inches...
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
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Re: SWB MAVERICK HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by matsmad »

mudmav wrote:HEY GUYS I HAVE A 89 SWB MAVERICK I HAVE READ ALL THE THREADS IN THE BIBLE AND LOOKED UNDER SEARCH BUT STILL NO GOOD.

DONT WANT A DC TAIL SHAFT HEARD LOTS OF BAD THINGS AND SEEEN A COUPLE OF THEM GO BANG. ANY ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!!!!!!!
Had a DC tail shaft made by ORI Silverwater and drove my mav hard as (ask GRIBBLE and PLUMBER). Never had any problems over the 2 years i had it. Fixed all my vibration problems with 6inch coils etc etc. :cool:
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Re: SWB MAVERICK HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by Gribble »

matsmad wrote:
mudmav wrote:HEY GUYS I HAVE A 89 SWB MAVERICK I HAVE READ ALL THE THREADS IN THE BIBLE AND LOOKED UNDER SEARCH BUT STILL NO GOOD.

DONT WANT A DC TAIL SHAFT HEARD LOTS OF BAD THINGS AND SEEEN A COUPLE OF THEM GO BANG. ANY ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!!!!!!!
Had a DC tail shaft made by ORI Silverwater and drove my mav hard as (ask GRIBBLE and PLUMBER). Never had any problems over the 2 years i had it. Fixed all my vibration problems with 6inch coils etc etc. :cool:
What are you talking about? Even Ms Daisy would whinge about your slow as a wet week driving. :D

Nah, that certainly fixed that drama you had. I would try to align the uni's first, but with heaps of lift and it being a shorty a DC would be a worthy option.
\m/
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Post by mavdog »

If you have a body lift raise your engine don't drop your tranfer. For a 3" lift I think by memory I did 6mm plates both sides of the engine mounts.
I removed them after getting a dc tailshaft.DC come with vibrating problems too if not set up properly...try reversing your standard shaft first..
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Post by mudmav »

hey guys i had j ust the trailing arms in to start with and it vibrated then i put the packers in and it got a little better but bot that much!!!
what benifit do i get by lifting the engine (please explain)
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Post by chimpboy »

Lifting the engine and/or lowering the gearbox "tilts" the engine/gearbox so that it is pointing upwards at the front and downwards at the back.

This means that the tailshaft going from the transfer to the rear diff is at less of an angle, because the transfer case is kinda pointing downwards anyway.

The opposite is true for the front driveshaft but it doesn't matter as much because the angles are reduced by the longer distance from the transfer case to the front diff.

Jason
This is not legal advice.
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Post by mudmav »

so how do i lift my engine without spending a fortune and still keeping it safe and legal
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Post by krimnl »

have you replaced you uni's , this can be a problem when your tailshaft has been running on a certian angle for many years then you go and lift the car the unis now run on a half worn and half unworn surface causing tailshaft vibrations, this is common with lowering standard cars.
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...

Post by JemmyBubbles »

Unis dude Unis. If you have both the outputs running parallel and you only have a 3 inch coil lift. What else could it be ? You don't have the front hubs locked in do you :D

The unis on these shafts (When working properly) will handle a bit of angle. More than your average (Key word average not one of those freaky ultra high angle doovies from the states +$1200, then you have to get your rear housing rotated more $$$$$) spicer Double Cardinal Joint. These cars unlike jeeps don't have a slip yoke at the transfer case end. The point I am making is as far as shorties go these things are good for lifts.

Get an angle finder and measure the exact angles of the unis at both outputs they should be exactly (or within 3 degrees) of opposing each other. If this is correct then your shaft is buggered. Get it recod prolly still cheaper than getting a double cardinal joint..

Don't Believe me go here..

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

THe engine mounts will just be doing the same as the crossmember spacers but wont be taking up ground clearance. The principal is that the more the angles are lessened the less chance the uni's will be maxed out and vibrate.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
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Post by jessie928 »

ALSO,

Aswll as checking out your uni's Have a good look at the slide joint spline, it may be cactus and to much moovement means vibrations.

Jes
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

What Jemmybubbles said.
I feels weird writing Jemmybubbles.

How is it going? Let us know exactly how you solved it if you have fixed it to help the next person out.
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
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...

Post by JemmyBubbles »

Yeah...

There is a story to that name. It feels second nature to me now... :D

Just call me Jeremy...
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
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Post by EricB »

When I put 16mm extended trailing arms in I removed the Gearbox packers and it runs well.
2000 GU II 4.2TD
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Post by bogged »

mudmav wrote:so how do i lift my engine without spending a fortune and still keeping it safe and legal
if your vibs are in the rear, lifting the engine may help you in this instance as it will flatten out the shaft angles at back of gearbox.

cheezy or bigballsoffroad.com all sell the engine mount kits.

or as stated by 10 others, try your unis, and go from there. The increased angles of the tailshaft once lifted will excentuate worn unis.
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try grease

Post by matto »

first things first try pumping a sh"tload of grease into your unis and shaft its cheap and will give peace of mind, your tail shaft might be out of balance aswell.
nissan 98 gu 5" lift 37 creepys, 80%reduction gears, front locker and a gen3 and no money.
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Post by EricB »

Do Uni's cost much to replace?
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Post by turps »

EricB wrote:Do Uni's cost much to replace?
I think they are about $30 each. As I had my front shaft done not long ago. And all up bill was $90 fitted.
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