Hi all...I am a boilermaker and a specialist welder.Using water to cool a weld will help shrink more than without water.In otherwords,your diff will bend the most if you cool it with water.Not to mention weaken the weld.
If your concerned about your diff bending,use an oxy to heat the opposite side of welded area and heat red hot similar to what you done welding.
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best way to weld on to diff - advice please
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Just to summarise........
1. Preferd that the diff is stripped, however can weld with oil/center installed
2. Pre heat the diff and parts to be welded to the diff (bracing, suspension brackets ect)
3. Tack weld parts to housing,
4. Fully weld components staggering the welds similar to tightning wheel nuts, taking time inbtween welds, not to build up excessive heat, weld in oppisite directions ie.. left to right, right to left. (my 10c's)
6. let the differential air cool.... don't use water to cool the welds....
Have I missed anything????? or am I going to end up with a big bananna
1. Preferd that the diff is stripped, however can weld with oil/center installed
2. Pre heat the diff and parts to be welded to the diff (bracing, suspension brackets ect)
3. Tack weld parts to housing,
4. Fully weld components staggering the welds similar to tightning wheel nuts, taking time inbtween welds, not to build up excessive heat, weld in oppisite directions ie.. left to right, right to left. (my 10c's)
6. let the differential air cool.... don't use water to cool the welds....
Have I missed anything????? or am I going to end up with a big bananna
1990 FJ70, 1HZ turbo/inter, masterpiece in progress.
sweet,,but when i said pre heat i mean a little just to get the mousture out,if you work with steel you would know what i mean..Cliffy wrote:Just to summarise........
1. Preferd that the diff is stripped, however can weld with oil/center installed
2. Pre heat the diff and parts to be welded to the diff (bracing, suspension brackets ect)
3. Tack weld parts to housing,
4. Fully weld components staggering the welds similar to tightning wheel nuts, taking time inbtween welds, not to build up excessive heat, weld in oppisite directions ie.. left to right, right to left. (my 10c's)
6. let the differential air cool.... don't use water to cool the welds....
Have I missed anything????? or am I going to end up with a big bananna
its only a diff bracket, on thickish mild steel not a cromoly race chassis built to minimise material.
Preheating, rod hydrogen levels, mig gas choices, bracket jigs, etc etc may help but does anyone that you would pay really bother.
give the area a quick clean with a sandpaper rubberbacked flex disk on the angle grinder (the heat from this will drive away the water) align and tack IN PLACE with firm decent penetrative corner tacks all ends connected or simulated to ensure bind free linkages. (dry tacks defeat the purpose and may fail when it is too late and lift the corner. weld up to 1 1/2" at a time allow to cool to less than orange, weld the opposing side, wait and repeat a minute or so after orange goes. some residiual heat helps make the following welds quicker, better penetrated and therefore cooler. i prefer shorter bursts of higher current ensuring penetration especially where weld lapping is involved, and pushing a mig gives a narrower deeper weld whereas pulling is shallower and wider. vertical down often gives better penetration but can look more untidy if the pool drops, so pulse every 2 secs or so to stop the puddle running (slightly high current as described above)
why remove anything, it will only end in tears (warpage wise). if you remove the centre then weld the pumpkin you may risk warping as it is un supported and allowed to roam free, it will not warp with it in
airlockers (apart from the airline) are far enough away to be safe (unless you crank it and burn through 6 - 8mm metal (in which case who allowed you near a 3 phase welder in the first place
the only problems are where there is a 7+ mm gap to fill and you try to do it at once or get carried away repeating the beads (its hard not to i know)
also welding the head of a ht bolt to the diff may in time crack due to localised induced mixed metal stress, stress concentration from vastly different thickness as well as point loading especially in single shear. that is why there are normally shock brackets holding the pin in two places.
finally a broken linkage mount can kill if it lets go at speed, if unsure of skill level get someone else to do it.
weld in thongs - you will become a better welder quicker
Preheating, rod hydrogen levels, mig gas choices, bracket jigs, etc etc may help but does anyone that you would pay really bother.
give the area a quick clean with a sandpaper rubberbacked flex disk on the angle grinder (the heat from this will drive away the water) align and tack IN PLACE with firm decent penetrative corner tacks all ends connected or simulated to ensure bind free linkages. (dry tacks defeat the purpose and may fail when it is too late and lift the corner. weld up to 1 1/2" at a time allow to cool to less than orange, weld the opposing side, wait and repeat a minute or so after orange goes. some residiual heat helps make the following welds quicker, better penetrated and therefore cooler. i prefer shorter bursts of higher current ensuring penetration especially where weld lapping is involved, and pushing a mig gives a narrower deeper weld whereas pulling is shallower and wider. vertical down often gives better penetration but can look more untidy if the pool drops, so pulse every 2 secs or so to stop the puddle running (slightly high current as described above)
why remove anything, it will only end in tears (warpage wise). if you remove the centre then weld the pumpkin you may risk warping as it is un supported and allowed to roam free, it will not warp with it in
airlockers (apart from the airline) are far enough away to be safe (unless you crank it and burn through 6 - 8mm metal (in which case who allowed you near a 3 phase welder in the first place
the only problems are where there is a 7+ mm gap to fill and you try to do it at once or get carried away repeating the beads (its hard not to i know)
also welding the head of a ht bolt to the diff may in time crack due to localised induced mixed metal stress, stress concentration from vastly different thickness as well as point loading especially in single shear. that is why there are normally shock brackets holding the pin in two places.
finally a broken linkage mount can kill if it lets go at speed, if unsure of skill level get someone else to do it.
weld in thongs - you will become a better welder quicker
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
water draws the heat out too fast and steel becomes brittle and will crack, oil is used to quench steel to harden it. My father and i forge down and harden jack hammer points for alot of the hire places. Therefore you would be better of topping up the diff oil rather than drain it. Maybe even pour some on the weld when your done. Having a fire extiguisher nearby wouldn't hert, not as much as trying to find it once your on fire anyway
'78 2 door Rangie, 3.9L , 2" body, 4" long travel, 35s, rear locker, disco auto, caged. GQ 4.2 18psi, 5" lift, ARB lockers, 33s,
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