REar interior change - anyone else done

[drewe]

Hey all,

Another one - I have just cut out a new rear interior in plywood - 3 times thicker and 10 times stronger that that carboard *cough* stuff that was there..... To hold new speakers too.

But there is a problem - the Canoe clips don't go on the ply - it is tooo thick. And the mounting holes are too big for any christmas tree clips I can find..... :(

has anyone done this? Did you just screw it in with self tappers, or get some good clips? PRefer clips if someone can tell me where to get ones big enough.....

#$@$ Car. Becoming a pain now!

I did get this cool 'fake' chequerplate - it is plastic base with a laquer coat, looks shmick, but costs more than the real thing!!!!! Mounted on the ply though it will not weigh anything, and won't give a mettalic sound to the speakers.....

Drewe

[RockyF75]

few threads down on "ultimate sound sytem etc" some one has done similar, coukd ask them . I plan on doing this too, oneday , already got the vinyl chequerplate roll sitting in the shed waiting

[4x4xmore]

you would have been better off using 4-6mm mdf its a bit heavier but alot better to use for stereo installs as it helps with better sound

[HeathGQ]

I REPLACED MINE WITH 3PLY. JUST SELF TAPPERED IT IN

Sorry, I'll stop yelling now.

Looked the goods.

[tufferoza]

you would have been better off using 4-6mm mdf its a bit heavier but alot better to use for stereo installs as it helps with better sound

indeed, you should use MDF with any sort of speaker enclosure or baffle. i wouldnt say it's heavier than plywood.

best thing to do would of been to make the wood panel so it mounts in behind the lip where the original panel went (into the cavity). wood screws through the metal lip into the wood to hold it firm and seal it with silastic (always use natural cure stuff). then drill out the wood where the holes are in the metal lip so you can clip the original panel back on or make a new one with 3mm MDF and vinyl it (or the plastic checker plate if you wished).
a little more work but you would end up with a better finish and no bulky panel sticking out.

[senergy]

putting mdf in behind the metal is a pretty good idea but getting any sort of screw to actually hold in mdf is hard. Ply wood would be better in that respect.
As from the picture i posted in the Ulitmate sound thread i made small mdf panels and put them on the outside. Drilled holes so as to match the holes in the metal then used those clips that came with the speakers on the other side of the metal. They arent big enough to match the hol so i just bent them shut and held them in place until i could screw the screws in tight. Its a little tricky to get your hand in behind the wood but i found if you take off the fake tail lights its much easier.
I then mounted the stock vinyl trim over the top and used the speakers to hold it in place.
The vinyl does stick out a bit at the rear but with the speakers/seat belts you cant see it at all.
I could have replaced the hole vinyl panel but i dont like the look of the Metal/home made panels. One day i might cover it with Velour..

[tufferoza]

putting mdf in behind the metal is a pretty good idea but getting any sort of screw to actually hold in mdf is hard.

i've been useing wood screws (coarse chip board type) in MDF for years and havnt had any trouble.

[4x4xmore]

putting mdf in behind the metal is a pretty good idea but getting any sort of screw to actually hold in mdf is hard.

i've been useing wood screws (coarse chip board type) in MDF for years and havnt had any trouble.

me too just dont over tighten them

[Bowhunter]

I have just recently, finished replacing mine.

I used three ply and brushed alumium laminate over the top. I relocated the speakers and added double cigarette lighter accessories plugs in the rear right panel. I also installed a 12V fluro zip tied onto the roll bar behind the break light and utilized the origanal switch from the factory light so the fluro still comes on automatically when you open the door.

I used self tappers.

I'm halfway through doing the front interior panels as well. IE, I've done the passenger door but not the driver's side.

I will post pics and a more detialed description when I'm done.

I used the alum laminate because IMO it looks heaps better than checker plate that I was going to go with and for $190 for a 1300x3000 mm sheet compared to c'plate at $75 for 600x900 mm it was CHEAPER TOO!

Luke

[murcod]

So it was a Laminex (benchtop type stuff) that you used? Sounds interesting and should look good.

[Bowhunter]

Sure was mate, and it looks sweet! I'm very happy with it...looks less "tacky" than c'plate would have IMO

Luke

[Bowhunter]

The other thing I forgot to mention was that with the size of the sheet of laminex that I got it enabled me to do my front doors as well (something that the price of c'plate would have prevented me doing for some time).

Oh, and the c'plate would have been much heavier adding unnecessary weight to the vehicle.

Luke

[BundyRumandCoke]

Use 3 ply, use the old panel as a template. Sand and polyurethane the ply to make it waterproof. Then use self tappers neatly spaced to fix into place.

Like this. Both front, rear, and the rear door panels have been done in it. I reckon MDF would eventually shake to bits, as well as being suss if you get your vehicle into deep water for any period of time.

[senergy]

Bowhunter: any chance of some pics?

BundyRumandCoke: Nice seats, i want some now.

[Bowhunter]

I'll post up all the pics and info when I'm done completely

Luke

[BundyRumandCoke]

Actually, they are a PITA. The sides of the squabs are way too tall. With the lift I have, you have to climb in, and slide over the edge of the seat. The seat material, and padding, has been worn away from the steel frame. When I get around to it, I will strip the material from the outside, modify the frame, then restitch the padding and seat material.

The seats are actually designed for a lower vehicle, that you slide in and down onto, not climb up and into.