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Dual batteries in a Feroza
Moderator: Tiny
Dual batteries in a Feroza
Has anyone installed a dual battery kit in a Feroza? I know Piranha make a battery holder to suit for $110, are there any other brands out there??
From what I've seen most of the 4WD companies here in Oz seem to ignore Daihatsu 4WDs full stop eg: try looking for the Daiahtsu section in the ARB catalogue
By the way TJM sell the Piranha battery holders and all the other gear necessary to do the conversion.
From what I've seen most of the 4WD companies here in Oz seem to ignore Daihatsu 4WDs full stop eg: try looking for the Daiahtsu section in the ARB catalogue
By the way TJM sell the Piranha battery holders and all the other gear necessary to do the conversion.
David
Not sure about Ferozas, but Rockys come standard with a ginormous battery, and the space to fit it on a stupid fibreglass tray. I threw the glass tray out, then fabricated a double metal tray up. Takes an N70 size deep cycle lengthwise, and an optima spiral cell across. As for the electrics, forget the expensive isolator systems. All you need is an ordinary relay, and a continuous duty solenoid. Ive run a homebuilt system for the last 5 years or so, with absolutely no problems. Come to think of it, yep, the accessories market for Daihatsus in OZ is up the ditch, :( :( :( so ya have to get very creative, and build a lot of what ya want for ya car. I think I have some pics of my dual battery set up and position on my site http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
The Feroza standard battery is tiny (same size as my old three cylinder Charade from memory!). I hadn't even thought of trying to squeeze another battery next to it- I'll have to check it out more. The Piranha tray somehow fits against the LHS upper firewall- nowhere near the main battery.
As for charging it I'll be getting the kit from Dick Smith / Jaycar that was designed by one of the electronics mags. From what I can work out it should be as good as those $200-300 ones, only it costs $50.
As for charging it I'll be getting the kit from Dick Smith / Jaycar that was designed by one of the electronics mags. From what I can work out it should be as good as those $200-300 ones, only it costs $50.
David
Posts: 3825
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Location: in the sky , its a bird , its a plane ! No its super MOOSE !!!
moose wrote:BundyRumandCoke wrote:Ahh, well, yes, of course, I'm talking about a diesel Rocky, and ya dont get Feroza's with grunt, :
Cheers
David
Besty , oh Besty , did you hear that !!!!!!!!!
Yeah I heard......... Most Feroza's don't come with a 127kW engine either !!!!
.............sorry 'bout the delay in replying.....I've been out in the bush for the last week.
Only broke the crossmember for the rear shocks................bouncy ride back home on Sunday !
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
Have done some more measuring and short of moving things around or permanently fitting a K&N pod filter the largest battery that may fit is an Exide 65A/H deep cycle on a custom cradle. The Piranha cradle is a bit of a waste of time as it will only hold an 8 inch battery (ie 55A/H max).
If the windscreen washer bottle is moved there is a possibility of a 12 inch battery fitting (mmmmm... 130 A/H!!!!).
As far as isolators/ battery managers go, the Jaycar / Dick
Smith kit for $45 is a bargain- provided you can solder! It charges the main battery first up to 13.5v, then the auxililary. If the aux batt is under 10.5 V it will only charge it at 2-3A to prevent aux batt damage (try doing that with a solenoid!). It uses Mosfets for current flow control ie. no clunky solenoid/ relay contacts to stuff out or get dirty. It can handle up to 120 Amps- or over twice the output of a Feroza alternator.
If the windscreen washer bottle is moved there is a possibility of a 12 inch battery fitting (mmmmm... 130 A/H!!!!).
As far as isolators/ battery managers go, the Jaycar / Dick
Smith kit for $45 is a bargain- provided you can solder! It charges the main battery first up to 13.5v, then the auxililary. If the aux batt is under 10.5 V it will only charge it at 2-3A to prevent aux batt damage (try doing that with a solenoid!). It uses Mosfets for current flow control ie. no clunky solenoid/ relay contacts to stuff out or get dirty. It can handle up to 120 Amps- or over twice the output of a Feroza alternator.
David
An update on the dual battery set up:
The controller is nearly finished. I bought the kit from Dick Smith- couldn't really go past it for $45 on special (here's a link:http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3e88bb0806a0adca2740c0a87f9c071d/Product/View/K3212). Will post some pics of the internals of it soon.
The tray is all cut out and partially welded. I'm making it so it mounts on all original bolt holes in the engine bay. I'm settling for a smaller battery though (55 AH deep cycle) due to the lack of space and not wanting to start redesigning the entire layout of the airfilter, windscreen washer bottle etc. The biggest problem is the air con pipes coming through the firewall- they severly limit the height for the battery.
The controller is nearly finished. I bought the kit from Dick Smith- couldn't really go past it for $45 on special (here's a link:http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3e88bb0806a0adca2740c0a87f9c071d/Product/View/K3212). Will post some pics of the internals of it soon.
The tray is all cut out and partially welded. I'm making it so it mounts on all original bolt holes in the engine bay. I'm settling for a smaller battery though (55 AH deep cycle) due to the lack of space and not wanting to start redesigning the entire layout of the airfilter, windscreen washer bottle etc. The biggest problem is the air con pipes coming through the firewall- they severly limit the height for the battery.
David
I know what you mean.............limited height !
I went to all the hassle of changing the Air Filter setup. I think I used a Charade Air box (eventually - after destroying 2 engines without a proper filter)
It worked OK.....didn't seem to retard the engine......mind you it was pretty gutless !!
Now I have 2 550CCA Exides....helps run the winch as I don't have a fridge to need a Deep Cycle setup !
I went to all the hassle of changing the Air Filter setup. I think I used a Charade Air box (eventually - after destroying 2 engines without a proper filter)
It worked OK.....didn't seem to retard the engine......mind you it was pretty gutless !!
Now I have 2 550CCA Exides....helps run the winch as I don't have a fridge to need a Deep Cycle setup !
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
Here are a couple of pics of the holder bolted into the engine bay...... Just need to get a battery now! It's going to be a very tight fit height wise with the bonnet closed. I'm looking at either an Exide ED4 or ED4R (the 4R has lower profile terminals- a feature I may need.)
As you can see in the pics the air con lines really get in the way :mad: I've used all existing bolts to fasten the holder to- basically just replaced the factory ones with high tensile longer bolts.
As you can see in the pics the air con lines really get in the way :mad: I've used all existing bolts to fasten the holder to- basically just replaced the factory ones with high tensile longer bolts.
David
Well clearance was a problem- the terminals on the Exide ED4 hit on the bonnet strengthening ribs.
So I've had to settle for one of those dual purpose type batteries- it a Power Breed PDIN55 460CCA 80RC. I guess the positive side is at least I can use it for starting if the main battery dies- unlike a dedicated deep cycle. Should have it all fitted by the weekend hopefully.
So I've had to settle for one of those dual purpose type batteries- it a Power Breed PDIN55 460CCA 80RC. I guess the positive side is at least I can use it for starting if the main battery dies- unlike a dedicated deep cycle. Should have it all fitted by the weekend hopefully.
David
murcod wrote:Well clearance was a problem- the terminals on the Exide ED4 hit on the bonnet strengthening ribs.
So I've had to settle for one of those dual purpose type batteries- it a Power Breed PDIN55 460CCA 80RC. I guess the positive side is at least I can use it for starting if the main battery dies- unlike a dedicated deep cycle. Should have it all fitted by the weekend hopefully.
Did it hit by much
Just wondering if you could take a panel beating hammer to the rib, not removing it, but knocking a small dent in the rib and then getting a piece of rubber to cover the battery and terminals so it would short out if you hit a bump
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
Ferozius wrote: Did it hit by much
Just wondering if you could take a panel beating hammer to the rib...
A hammer!!! No thanks! I'd rather just settle for the other battery... A deep cycle would have been better for my purposes, but it was all too hard in the end.
It needs a fair bit dented in to clear and it would be right where the bonnet is hinged (probably the strongest part). Would have been fine if the aircon lines didn't come out in such a stupid place, as it is the holder only clears the lower of the two by about 5mm and is hard up against the side of the larger one.
Next problem is fabricating a clamp to hold it in place- once again the clearance issue prevents me from using an off the shelf item....
Last edited by murcod on Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
David
The "fitted and finished" pics should be up in the next day or so. I've had a bit of a set back in the form of a shagged water pump that let go on Sunday. Luckily for me the three month dealer warranty had a couple of days left
I get the Feroza back tonight and will try to fit everything then.
I get the Feroza back tonight and will try to fit everything then.
David
OK it's finally all done!
Finished it all last night and checked out it works. The auxillary battery was 12.6v before starting the engine and was charging at 14.4v with the engine running. At the moment I've just got the auxillary battery wired to the AUX terminal on the seven pin trailer plug and have made up an adaptor to run lights etc off when camping.
Here are the pics:
Finished it all last night and checked out it works. The auxillary battery was 12.6v before starting the engine and was charging at 14.4v with the engine running. At the moment I've just got the auxillary battery wired to the AUX terminal on the seven pin trailer plug and have made up an adaptor to run lights etc off when camping.
Here are the pics:
David
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