Hey guys,
Looking for some info on when the block design changed on the TD42?
I have been told it was around 95 / 96 is this right? Are there any identifing features?
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TD42 Blocks??????
As GQ said, there was a change to the internals between non-turbo engines in August 1993, then another change to the block in early 1996 (March I think?).
Quick way is to check if the brake vacuum thing is remote mounted off the RHS of the block, under the power steering (instead of on the back of the alternator)?? If it is block mounted, then its post 1996 build.
At some stage there was a change to 4 bolt engine mounts too....not sure which one of those two dates above it coincides with though?
Cheers
Mitch
Quick way is to check if the brake vacuum thing is remote mounted off the RHS of the block, under the power steering (instead of on the back of the alternator)?? If it is block mounted, then its post 1996 build.
At some stage there was a change to 4 bolt engine mounts too....not sure which one of those two dates above it coincides with though?
Cheers
Mitch
So its a 04/1996 non-turbo engine?? Then lotsa boost is a very bad thing! Have recently seen two late 1995 non-turbo engines (lighter rods and pistons) shit themselves from aftermarket turbos running 14psi or less. Showed itself in cracked pistons, pre-comb chambers etc. There was a piece of pre-comp the size of your finger-nail sitting under one of the valves...no wonder that cylinder was a little low on compression......... 
At 20 psi, it could last for 2 weeks, or up to 2 years!?!?!?
At 20 psi, it could last for 2 weeks, or up to 2 years!?!?!?
prolly the safest way to do it would be to run a maximum of 10 pounds of boost... 15 is pushing it...DanielS wrote:Thanks for that guys, from what i have looked at on my engine its a 4 / 96. So does that mean high boost is not recommended for this block say around 20 - 25psi?
the pre aug 93 motors have heavier pistons and rods and have higher tolerances and can probalby handle more boost than the post 93 engines.
TOM
20+ boost you'll be flat out keeping the valves shut even with aftermarket H/D valve springs
most guys are running 15 in comps n stuff
most guys are running 15 in comps n stuff
H( * )( * )NZ loves B( * )( * )BIES
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
You don't need to run 20 odd psi "just to burn the extra fuel".....provided the pump is setup correctly with an aneroid etc.
How long do you intend to keep the donk for?? If its just a crash and burn truck, it may be worth it, but I wouldn't be trying big boost with the later non-turbo engine if you expect it to last a reasonable length of time.
The Navara TD27 rods and pistons are interchangable with TD42 rods and pistons, so too are TD27-T and TD42-T. So we found a knackered TD42 with a good head and built a "turbo spec'd" engine up from scratch using Navara parts....got the cam reground at the same time, everything balanced etc....that would be the most reliable way to go.
Cheers
Mitch
How long do you intend to keep the donk for?? If its just a crash and burn truck, it may be worth it, but I wouldn't be trying big boost with the later non-turbo engine if you expect it to last a reasonable length of time.
The Navara TD27 rods and pistons are interchangable with TD42 rods and pistons, so too are TD27-T and TD42-T. So we found a knackered TD42 with a good head and built a "turbo spec'd" engine up from scratch using Navara parts....got the cam reground at the same time, everything balanced etc....that would be the most reliable way to go.
Cheers
Mitch
What it cost us won't be reflective of what it may cost someone else.....cost us less than $600 for parts to build it up, including the cam work etc, but only because my driver is a diesel mechanic and deals with wreckers alot too. The tired TD42 engine was bought for about $400 I think, which is cheap considering the head was fine. It took a while to find enough TD27-T rods and pistons in good enough condition to make it work. Cam grind was $120. The rods and pistons come as a matched pair, so can't be seperated if one or other is damaged.
The thing is, TD27 engines don't demand the same premium as the TD42 engines, so their parts can be had for a fraction of the price. And if you're willing to wait for the right bargain, things can be found at a realistic price.
Cheers
Mitch
The thing is, TD27 engines don't demand the same premium as the TD42 engines, so their parts can be had for a fraction of the price. And if you're willing to wait for the right bargain, things can be found at a realistic price.
Cheers
Mitch
need parts?
Hi, I have a few engine parts laying around, but dont have a block.
If you need rods, or cranks, or a head let me know.
Mick Christie
If you need rods, or cranks, or a head let me know.
Mick Christie
Chop it drop it and big block it.
i have a complete engine for 500
complete engine, had the head doe needs 4th piston rings and resleive, it has new injectors, water pump too i wana get rid of it its taken up room for other crap.
a pootrol
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