opinions on the 2F

Post by **BeZeRK** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 1:16 pm

whot do people think of these for power and fuel efficiancy and general reliability etc...

Post by **bad_religion_au** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 1:57 pm

reliability... good for a petrol, except for water crossings (may just be me). sometimes suffers vapor lock... vapor lock + dying battery = only time it let me down

power... ok, in a low down torque way.

fuel efficiency.... sh!thouse, bearable on gas (as long as you don't need to cover more than say 250 k's a tank)

Post by **Gunmetal_45** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 4:23 pm

Im Running a 2f at the moment and find it adequate for low down tourqe.
i have mine on gas and and find fuel economy fine.
i have a 180lt tank (160lt actual capacity) and get approx 1000ks hwy and 6-700 4x4ing.

Post by **4sum4** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 4:38 pm

I just bought a 45 not long ago and get 500K`s plus out of the 85L Tank when not loaded and the power is better than I thought I can sit on a 110k with the A/C on no worries

Post by **dumbdunce** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 7:20 pm

they are a pretty tough motor and will take a lot of abuse, but they are famous for a couple of problems. Third world points ignition really lets them down - upgrade it to electronic. Make sure the mixture is good (slightly rich is better). if you add extractors, or the EGR and PCV and EAI aren't working properly (eg if you disconnect the pollution control gear) then they tend to run a bit lean, then (a) the manifolds get hot, the inlet will crack and warp, the exhaust will warp away from the head and you will get manifold leaks. (b) the exhaust valves burn out and/or the rotators give up over time, causing the exhaust valves to leak and the compression dropping off over the months until the compression is so bad the engine won't even start. They have also been known to have problems with blocked oil galleries to the rocker gear resulting in squashed pushrod ends and/or valve stem ends and rockers, and by the time you notice the symptoms, it's usually too late. As for wear and tear generally the bores and pistons and crack/bearings etc last a long time and they should give you no trouble. Kept in good tune and not thrashed they return decent fuel economy, I used to regularly get 13 - 14 litres in a stocker FJ40 by driving it very softly.

cheers

Brian

Post by **Rough60** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 10:43 pm

if you are looking at buying, i'd shop around for at least a 2h, sooooo much better economy, i think a good 2f get around 18-19 L/100 where as a my 2h gets 13-14, if you fit a turbo to the 2h, even better, or just go for a 12ht.
cheers

Post by **DIRTY ROCK STAR** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:22 am

mate mine goes strong no issues with it so far.

pushing 35s around it gets about 250km for 50litres.
expensive but so is a conversion.

it pushes the 35s without gearing fine. and top end i dont go much over 100, but it would for sure. once its wound up its fine.

dumbdunce where does one find the electronic ignition and what $$ roughly??
we have asked these questions before, but you actually seem to know some details.

Post by **dumbdunce** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:50 am

DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
dumbdunce where does one find the electronic ignition and what $$ roughly??
we have asked these questions before, but you actually seem to know some details.

the simplest and cheapest electronic ignition setup is to use the dick smith/jaycar kit which massively reduces the current through the points thereby more or less completely stopping the wear caused by arcing, and providing a much fatter spark. the kit is about $60 and anyone with a soldering iron can put it together. if you want to go full electronic you have to fit an optical or hall effect sensor in place of the points - there are web pages out there describing converting the 2F to a GM high energy ignition but I don't know how easy it would be to get the parts here. maybe you could graft the dizzy etc out of another toyota 6 (M series maybe), of the electronic ignition off 22R's is cheap and plentiful at wreckers, you would still need to find and adapt a 6-point star wheel though. surely someone on this board would have done it.

cheers

Brian

Post by **Landcruiser Tom** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 9:06 pm

i have mine on gas and and find fuel economy fine.
i have a 180lt tank (160lt actual capacity) and get approx 1000ks hwy and 6-700 4x4ing.

Gunmetal,

How do you get 1000km from 160ltrs of LPG??? I reckon my 60 is pretty well tuned, and I get about 330km on the highway from 72ltrs of lpg. I'm pushing 33's mudders at the moment, but when I had 31's on it I got roughly the same.

Tom

Post by **Frostyboy** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 9:51 pm

Mines in a good state of tune,extractors snork,etc, but still gets about 18-20 l/100k. Its the price you pay for a cool car!!
Mark

Post by **Gunmetal_45** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 8:10 am

Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 9:06 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
i have mine on gas and and find fuel economy fine.
i have a 180lt tank (160lt actual capacity) and get approx 1000ks hwy and 6-700 4x4ing.

Gunmetal,

How do you get 1000km from 160ltrs of LPG??? I reckon my 60 is pretty well tuned, and I get about 330km on the highway from 72ltrs of lpg. I'm pushing 33's mudders at the moment, but when I had 31's on it I got roughly the same.

Tom

I am running reasearch on it through a gas carb, so i get even better milage from gas tahn i would petrol, i carry a second carb that i use if i run out and need to switch to petrol.

Post by **brentlee** » Sun Aug 07, 2005 7:55 pm

is that the gas research carby? did u do any mods to make it run eg electronic ignition etc? do they have an adapter plate or did you have to make one? are you using two carbys or just one?

i have just bought a fj45 ute and have the gas research setup on the 253 one tonner and was wondering if it would go accross? do i need to do up the head?? any help appreciated as this is my first fourby.

thanks
brett

Post by **Robbo171** » Mon Aug 08, 2005 9:25 pm

my 2F is a bit thirsty,but mind you i do give it a hard time though...havnt worked out the l/100km's yet...
mine has extractors,2.5in exhaust straight through muffler its a bit loud but the sound and performance is sooooo worth it..!:),spitfire airfilter its the same as a k&n,i've also modified the original dizzy to take cressida electronic internals..just to keep it all toyota also for reliability,cressida coil and ignitor,bosch leads,NGK BPR5EY-11 plugs.
with that combo also advancing the timing by a couple degrees has improved the responce of the engine..i can blip the throttle n it will rev nice n clean n smooth. i've seen the tacho needle at 5000rpm before...ooops!
i find i get around 450km's to a tank..mines an 82 model so the tank is under the car above the g/box. thats country driving sitting on 110-120kmh in 5th.
i'm about to fit LPG n see how this combo will workout

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Tue Aug 09, 2005 4:29 am

My 2F rocks had it stripped and totaly rebuilt last year balanced too and for those who have seen it the comment usuall is "is it running." Also have
Pirana electronic ignition with optical distibuter fitted. Cam changed to suit 90% Gas but can still run petrol if i have too. Plenty of power to drive the 34's. Though i have just had the crown and pinions changed to 4.6's and a 5 speed box fitted to cope with the up coming 35's. No matter what people say the bigger the tyre the more power you wash off turning them. It will be interesting to see the differnece next time off road.

As for economy if your running a 2F you have lost the battle they will never be economical

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 3:20 am

Off to be dynoed today. One year on since its total rebuild and balancing.
Anyone had a 2F dynoed befor? Your results? What is standered for a 2F output anyone know?

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:17 am

matt.mcinnes wrote:Off to be dynoed today. One year on since its total rebuild and balancing.
Anyone had a 2F dynoed befor? Your results? What is standered for a 2F output anyone know?

All done here is mine
See pic below

Post by **bad_religion_au** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 12:06 pm

what type of engine work is on that 2f? 490nm of torque sounds pretty good

Post by **DIRTY ROCK STAR** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 12:38 pm

Well Done!!
and yeah what kinda work is on it?
thats alot at wheels!

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:10 am

DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:Well Done!!
and yeah what kinda work is on it?
thats alot at wheels!

Not 100% sure but engine was fully rebuilt and balanced new pistons and cam to suit gas, The Engine builder was told we were more interested in low down torque. So the cam was picked to suit that. I Requested everything be balanced as I know how hard I drive it. Also had Pirana electronic ignition fitted with optical dissi. Other than that it was left to the Engine builders expertise.
Quite happy to recomend him if anyone wants his details.

Post by **bad_religion_au** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 2:39 pm

might be interested in his details, do you have a rough price for the work? i'm looking into building a strong torquy 2f that'll cop straight gas and a turbo.

also how much for the electronic ignition? going to redo the points and everything soon, but if the elec ignition is easy enough i might bite the bullet

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 5:26 pm

bad_religion_au wrote:might be interested in his details, do you have a rough price for the work? i'm looking into building a strong torquy 2f that'll cop straight gas and a turbo.

also how much for the electronic ignition? going to redo the points and everything soon, but if the elec ignition is easy enough i might bite the bullet

Ok the Electronic ignition system pirahna Part No PIG17437 $454.55 @24/7/03
Engine rebuild came in at $4150 and I have been trying for over a year to get the exact details out of him but no joy as yet, I will chase him up on the pretext that someone else is looking at having the same work done tomorrow but may take a little time.

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:30 am

Spoke to the Engine builder today details are posted on my members page for those interested.
Just follow the link below

Post by **hokey** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:52 pm

looking through the cruiser bible and i thought this was the best spot to ask my question.
i love the torque that my 2F has in my newly aquired 40! the only problem is the tappets are so noisy the thing soundsl ike a bloody diesel and i can' here the exhaust not even. would someone be able to tell me the tappet clearances please?
Cheers guys:)

Post by **Hamo** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:51 pm

hokey wrote:looking through the cruiser bible and i thought this was the best spot to ask my question.
i love the torque that my 2F has in my newly aquired 40! the only problem is the tappets are so noisy the thing soundsl ike a bloody diesel and i can' here the exhaust not even. would someone be able to tell me the tappet clearances please?
Cheers guys:)

Valve clearance (HOT)
Inlet 0.20mm (0.008in)
Exhaust 0.35mm (0.014in)

Did you fix the over heating problem

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:25 am

Hamo wrote:
hokey wrote:looking through the cruiser bible and i thought this was the best spot to ask my question.
i love the torque that my 2F has in my newly aquired 40! the only problem is the tappets are so noisy the thing soundsl ike a bloody diesel and i can' here the exhaust not even. would someone be able to tell me the tappet clearances please?
Cheers guys:)
Valve clearance (HOT)
Inlet 0.20mm (0.008in)
Exhaust 0.35mm (0.014in)

Did you fix the over heating problem

Had my vlaves set the other day, sooooooooooooo much better now

Post by **hokey** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:42 am

Hamo wrote:
hokey wrote:looking through the cruiser bible and i thought this was the best spot to ask my question.
i love the torque that my 2F has in my newly aquired 40! the only problem is the tappets are so noisy the thing soundsl ike a bloody diesel and i can' here the exhaust not even. would someone be able to tell me the tappet clearances please?
Cheers guys:)
Valve clearance (HOT)
Inlet 0.20mm (0.008in)
Exhaust 0.35mm (0.014in)

Did you fix the over heating problem

thanks for that hamo! i am putting in the original fan and shroud and also using a better radiator so i will see how it goes.
Cheers, Calvin

Post by **Hamo** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 7:52 am

matt.mcinnes wrote:
Hamo wrote:
hokey wrote:looking through the cruiser bible and i thought this was the best spot to ask my question.
i love the torque that my 2F has in my newly aquired 40! the only problem is the tappets are so noisy the thing soundsl ike a bloody diesel and i can' here the exhaust not even. would someone be able to tell me the tappet clearances please?
Cheers guys:)
Valve clearance (HOT)
Inlet 0.20mm (0.008in)
Exhaust 0.35mm (0.014in)

Did you fix the over heating problem
Had my vlaves set the other day, sooooooooooooo much better now

A mate who is a toyota mechanic of 27 years reckon's they should be checked every 10'000 klm's and he discribed it as critacal(sp)

Post by **matt.mcinnes** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:34 am

Hamo wrote:
matt.mcinnes wrote:
Hamo wrote:
hokey wrote:looking through the cruiser bible and i thought this was the best spot to ask my question.
i love the torque that my 2F has in my newly aquired 40! the only problem is the tappets are so noisy the thing soundsl ike a bloody diesel and i can' here the exhaust not even. would someone be able to tell me the tappet clearances please?
Cheers guys:)
Valve clearance (HOT)
Inlet 0.20mm (0.008in)
Exhaust 0.35mm (0.014in)

Did you fix the over heating problem
Had my vlaves set the other day, sooooooooooooo much better now
A mate who is a toyota mechanic of 27 years reckon's they should be checked every 10'000 klm's and he discribed it as critacal(sp)

Have mine done every 5000 but it does get a hard time.

Post by **bad_religion_au** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:40 pm

my valves haven't been adjusted in 5 years... might do it this weekend

Post by **chevJ40** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:36 pm

matt was that dyno run in low range or high

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