Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
1/4's and the tow bar
1/4's and the tow bar
okay, I've looked, searched etc, etc. I have been looking at cutting the 1/4's on my LWB GQ, but what about the tow bar, obviously it catches on steep drop offs, what have people done about their towbars to gain more clearance. Legally I doubt you should be modding a towbar or making your own, so what have people done, besides removing it all together (I need to be able to tow)?
Thanks for your help!
Paul
Thanks for your help!
Paul
Some people Ive seen have cut the rear of the chassis and re welded a hayman reece reciever into the rear rail. I personly dont like this idea, so I just remove my tow bar for most of the time and just put it on when I need it. Its a factory tow bar and its only 6 bolts to put it back on . Usually takes about 15 minutes. Hope this helps , shane..............
http://www.biders4wd.com/
http://www.autobalance.com.au/
www.4bfabrications.com.au
http://www.autobalance.com.au/
www.4bfabrications.com.au
I have seen the tow hitch being welded in place between the chassis rails with a rear bar made to fit either side and looks quite effective but if 1/4 are fine wait till rusted or bent b4 going the chop as they will provide pretection till that point Just a thought Jamie H
Twenty4-7 Rock Racing
#247
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com.au/index.htm
#247
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com.au/index.htm
Another idea on the factory receivers is to cut it off from current position and wled back onto the rear bar on the same level and brace it. If you have a factory towbar and receiver hitch you'll see what I mean. If not you'll just be lost.
By the way, Bigmav, have you got plans for your bar? Looks great.
By the way, Bigmav, have you got plans for your bar? Looks great.
CJ
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
No but its pretty basic. I bought it secondhand ages ago from someone on this board (can't remember who) apparently it was on a patrol that competed in the outback challenge a few years back who converted to a ute or something. Its simple but really strong!! The tow hitch is far stronger than the original tow bar that I took off and I got a better exit angle.
1989 Ford Maverick Turbo Diesel Tourer
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
I'm toying with the idea of a simple U channel with the chassis rails sitting inside the U and using the old bumperette mounting brackets welded onto it.
Cut a couple of 'T's into it for the high lift and a couple of rings for recovery points and see how I go.
CJ
Cut a couple of 'T's into it for the high lift and a couple of rings for recovery points and see how I go.
CJ
CJ
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
I've had this one made, cost around $300nz. Nothing fancy, but does the trick.
http://www.equip4.co.nz/rear%20bumper.htm
Dave
http://www.equip4.co.nz/rear%20bumper.htm
Dave
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests