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matt.mcinnes wrote:Power steering Q
My FJ40 Power Steering at idol is too heavy, its ok with a few revs on the clock and has been refurbished and an oil cooler added.
What are the possible problems i will have if i put a bigger pully on the pump to bring it up to speed sooner?
factroy or aftermarket power steer? what size tyres do you run? at what pressures?
if you fit a bigger pulley you run the risk of foaming the oil on the highway/at higher revs. remember it's only designed to turn 7.50/16's, anything wider than that might give it a hard time. is there any kinks or restrictions in any of your lines? any leaks? if it's getting any air into it on the low side the assistance will not be as good as it could be.
After Market 75 series and next set of rubber will be 35x10.5x15 centipieds currently on 34 JT2's. No Kinks or restrictions other than the power seering cooler its self. No leaks and no air getting in.
Also 4.556 Diff centers and 5 speed box.
matt.mcinnes wrote:Power steering Q
My FJ40 Power Steering at idol is too heavy, its ok with a few revs on the clock and has been refurbished and an oil cooler added.
What are the possible problems i will have if i put a bigger pully on the pump to bring it up to speed sooner?
factroy or aftermarket power steer? what size tyres do you run? at what pressures?
if you fit a bigger pulley you run the risk of foaming the oil on the highway/at higher revs. remember it's only designed to turn 7.50/16's, anything wider than that might give it a hard time. is there any kinks or restrictions in any of your lines? any leaks? if it's getting any air into it on the low side the assistance will not be as good as it could be.
After Market 75 series and next set of rubber will be 35x10.5x15 centipieds currently on 34 JT2's. No Kinks or restrictions other than the power seering cooler its self. No leaks and no air getting in.
Also 4.556 Diff centers and 5 speed box.
have you compared pulley sizes to ensure the pump si turning at the right rpm? maximum assistance should be at idle. might be worth getting s shop to put a gauge on it to make sure your pump is making enough pressure.
matt.mcinnes wrote:Power steering Q
My FJ40 Power Steering at idol is too heavy, its ok with a few revs on the clock and has been refurbished and an oil cooler added.
What are the possible problems i will have if i put a bigger pully on the pump to bring it up to speed sooner?
factroy or aftermarket power steer? what size tyres do you run? at what pressures?
if you fit a bigger pulley you run the risk of foaming the oil on the highway/at higher revs. remember it's only designed to turn 7.50/16's, anything wider than that might give it a hard time. is there any kinks or restrictions in any of your lines? any leaks? if it's getting any air into it on the low side the assistance will not be as good as it could be.
After Market 75 series and next set of rubber will be 35x10.5x15 centipieds currently on 34 JT2's. No Kinks or restrictions other than the power seering cooler its self. No leaks and no air getting in.
Also 4.556 Diff centers and 5 speed box.
have you compared pulley sizes to ensure the pump si turning at the right rpm? maximum assistance should be at idle. might be worth getting s shop to put a gauge on it to make sure your pump is making enough pressure.
I assume it has been tested as its only just come back from the power steering shop after the pump was rebuilt. But pully size and ratio is a good question. What should they be? Most seem to be one to one.
By the way pressure is front 8psi off road and rear 6psi.
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matt.mcinnes wrote:Power steering Q
My FJ40 Power Steering at idol is too heavy, its ok with a few revs on the clock and has been refurbished and an oil cooler added.
What are the possible problems i will have if i put a bigger pully on the pump to bring it up to speed sooner?
factroy or aftermarket power steer? what size tyres do you run? at what pressures?
if you fit a bigger pulley you run the risk of foaming the oil on the highway/at higher revs. remember it's only designed to turn 7.50/16's, anything wider than that might give it a hard time. is there any kinks or restrictions in any of your lines? any leaks? if it's getting any air into it on the low side the assistance will not be as good as it could be.
After Market 75 series and next set of rubber will be 35x10.5x15 centipieds currently on 34 JT2's. No Kinks or restrictions other than the power seering cooler its self. No leaks and no air getting in.
Also 4.556 Diff centers and 5 speed box.
have you compared pulley sizes to ensure the pump si turning at the right rpm? maximum assistance should be at idle. might be worth getting s shop to put a gauge on it to make sure your pump is making enough pressure.
I assume it has been tested as its only just come back from the power steering shop after the pump was rebuilt. But pully size and ratio is a good question. What should they be? Most seem to be one to one.
By the way pressure is front 8psi off road and rear 6psi.
at that sort of tyre pressure, so power steer in the world is going to steer easily. you might want to consider hydro assist.
What's the difference between 80 and 100 series diffs and what parts are interchangeable?
If the 100 series is wider but axles same length (guessing) where does the extra width come from?
Thanks in advance
First
What is involved in replacing the bottom end bearings and can it be done be an at home mechanic? Any special tools required? Should i do anything else at the same time?
Second
Same question but for the timing belt and front seal as it is leaking?
Third
How much do you think it would cost in parts and can you recommend brands or should i go Toyota?
He was about to start a SAS, but wanted me to find out if his body and tray would fit onto an LN106 chassis - and if so which type Single/Dual/Extra?
And would this be easier to get approved in QLD than a SAS?
Anyone got this or a SAS engineered in SE QLD? If so where from?
it's surely going to be cheaper and easier to buy a solid axle lux from scratch. don't reinvent the wheel.
I am not certain on the body swap but it is unlikely to fit. I know there are a few cabs that can be swapped onto different chassis but no idea which. start measuring.
LuxyBoy wrote:Thanks in advance
First
What is involved in replacing the bottom end bearings and can it be done be an at home mechanic? Any special tools required? Should i do anything else at the same time?
Second
Same question but for the timing belt and front seal as it is leaking?
Third
How much do you think it would cost in parts and can you recommend brands or should i go Toyota?
Has done about 250000kms
on what engine??
big end bearings you need patience and a torque wrench. best to replace them one at a time and rotate the engine so you're always working on a bearing at bottom dead centre. measure the threads of all the bolts when they are out to ensure they haven't stretched. ACL bearings are the go. timing belt is pretty easy, replace the idler pulley(s) at the same time. repco bits are fine, price them against the factory parts and see which is cheaper. seal replacement isn't too difficult, you may need to speedisleeve the pully spigot if it is scored.
Following pic is of a garrett turbo off a 3b for my 3b. can you help me out on what goes where, i think i know some of them
1. oil in. this to come of remote oil filter setup that came with the turbo
2. oil out. plumb into sump. should i weld pipe in or tap a fitting or drill thru and bolt in ?
3. water hose. ??
4. water hose. ??
5. no idea
cheers and great thanks
Lance
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johnboy wrote:DD, my rear brake shoes in the hilux keep auto adjusting till they drag, what causes this and how can i fix it every thing seems normal
cheers John
is it possible the self-adjusters have accidently been sawpped left/right? they should only adjust when the handbrake is appplied. also possible the self-adjuster pawl is not correctly engaging the ratchet wheel.
Following pic is of a garrett turbo off a 3b for my 3b. can you help me out on what goes where, i think i know some of them
1. oil in. this to come of remote oil filter setup that came with the turbo
2. oil out. plumb into sump. should i weld pipe in or tap a fitting or drill thru and bolt in ?remove sump, drill, weld or braze in a short bit of pipe, replace sump. might as well replace your big end bearings while the sump is off - getting the sump off is the hardest part of that job too. ditch the sump gasket if there is one, clean it up and use lots of FIPG.
3. water hose. ??correct
4. water hose. ??correct. tee these into the heater hoses. it really does not matter which one goes to which heater hose, as long as the turbo gets some water flow.
5. no ideathis one PROBABLY goes to the inlet manifold/crossover, it is the wastegate actuator signal and could be balanced between the compressor outlet and the manifold. you can probably just block it off - fit a boost gauge for testing when you get it all together, don't exceed about 9psi on an internally standard 3B
dear god, i've got a garrett gt17 off a saab and am putting it on my 3b. i realise it is only a small turbo. what kinda boost do you reckon it might pump without becoming too inefficient??? and what kinda power and torque can i expect?????
85lux wrote:dear god, i've got a garrett gt17 off a saab and am putting it on my 3b. i realise it is only a small turbo. what kinda boost do you reckon it might pump without becoming too inefficient??? and what kinda power and torque can i expect?????
what kind of power and torque did the saab make? you can expect similar peak power from the same turbo - at lower rpm means higher torque. stick it on and see - any turbo is better than no turbo. is it internally or externally waste-gated? if internal you might find it chokes a bit at high rpm, as if the 3B has any such thing as "high" rpm.
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slosh wrote:What's the difference between 80 and 100 series diffs and what parts are interchangeable?
If the 100 series is wider but axles same length (guessing) where does the extra width come from?
slosh wrote:What's the difference between 80 and 100 series diffs and what parts are interchangeable?
If the 100 series is wider but axles same length (guessing) where does the extra width come from?
Any ideas? Looking for extra width if possible.
sorry must have missed this one. believe it or not almost everything is different between 80's and 100's axles, not sure if the extra width is in the form of extra hub offset or wider housings, but in the rear the inner shafts are different (bigger diameter, higher spline count) and of hourse 10*'s are all 5 wheel stud, 80's all 6 stud. how much extra width do you need? I have -28mm offset wheels on my 80 and the tyres (315/75's) stick out of the flares about 10mm each side, it's plenty wide enough, very stable with 5 - 6" lift.
joel HJ60 wrote:Dear not so Dumbdunce,
What is the stock HJ60 exhaust size? When they first came out, how much were they brand new? ( the car, not the exhaust.) And what's involved in an engine rebuild(is it the same a recondition etc...? Thanks joel
joel HJ60 wrote:Dear not so Dumbdunce,
What is the stock HJ60 exhaust size? When they first came out, how much were they brand new? ( the car, not the exhaust.) And what's involved in an engine rebuild(is it the same a recondition etc...? Thanks joel
You forgot me
stock 60 series exhaust is 2.25" I think, but it's press bent so the size means nothing. don't remember how much they were brand new, and there was a LOT of variation between early povos, G pack, GXL and Sahara's.
an engine rebuild is usually stripping the motor down, cleaning everything up and putting it back together, with new gaskets and seals. a recondition will involve new bearings, pistons, rings, rebore, and a degree of head work depending on what is necessary. different engine builders use different terminology so don't just ask for a 'rebuild' or 'recondition' - find out what they include in the prices they offer so you can compare. It is rarely much cheaper to do a recondition yourself than to get a shop to do it, since you have to take it to a shop for the machine work anyway.
benhl wrote:DD - Please list all supercharged engines that will bolt up to a std 94 hilux petrol gearbox etc that has got a 22r in it now.
Looking to blow my lux
so it has a G52 gearbox? 1G-GZE I think will fit. you can turbo or supercharge the 22R, it's good for a mild boost - a more interesting conversion than an engine swap. but if you want a sports car, go and buy a Pulsar GTi-R or something - if you want a good offroader, don't waste money on an engine swap. Engine swaps are almost always disappointing and almost always cost twice as much as you budget (the exception is swapping ratty old V8's into ratty old patrols or cruisers where there is no EFI drama, the bellhousing is sourced cheap and second hand, and the engine is only a few hunnert bucks)
.
Are GTi-Rs common in Oz? I thought it's a pretty slow boyracer car that cant go offroading coz the ATTESA doenst work like a GTR ATTESA ETS.
Do u by chance happen to drive one around? And the thing understeers like porkchops so how can it be a sports car... And since i like an oversteering rig is dropping a 1JZ a stupid idea into my Rocky and Hilux and enter the Rainforest Challenge/
Another question.... Why does my stupid rear brake shoes wears at a crazy rate and doesnt seem to adjust itself. Now my hand brake leaver has to be yanked so hard b4 it partially locks.... I cant go changing brake pads every 3months which deprives me from aspring to own a GTR.
U KNOW TOO MUCH 
You forgot me 