Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
bodylift question
christover1 wrote:best not to cut floor, as it weakens structure and won't pass engineer or rwc. If thats an issue.
It does depend on type of bl.
Mine is box section steel, so I bolted top to body and bottom to chassis, just on those captive bolts.
threaded blocks is best idea on those pesky bolts, I think.
I do like NUGGS forementioned idea, too.
christover
I'd thaught of using box section with captive nut in top , bolt in bottom and the open sides plated.
Christover looking at your PS pictures I was wondering how much lift you running - body ,spring & shackle do I recall corectly your rolling on 33's .I want to allow for future mods when I build my "roof rack" with integral sliders , wheel & jerry can carrier etc.
97 TJ Wrangler OME lift 33"JT's
66 mustang
04 SS 5.7 (wifes)
66 mustang
04 SS 5.7 (wifes)
Wow talk about making a hard job of the easiest thing ,drive in drive out 50mm taller in under 90 min no drilling welding or cutting. Just wondering how long and painfull is that mod
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a question before i start drilling, im going to drill the old bolts out and install new high tensile items. Im just wondering, for the 10mm captive bolt in the body, it has a 16mm or so head on it thats welded in, if i drill this out to 16mm and install a new 10mm bolt with washer, wont this still slop round in hole?
If so i was thinking of welding a small piece of 4mm metal with a 10mm hole in it under the body where the drilled out 16mm hole is, so it doesnt slop. Would that work?
nd painfull is that mod
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a question before i start drilling, im going to drill the old bolts out and install new high tensile items. Im just wondering, for the 10mm captive bolt in the body, it has a 16mm or so head on it thats welded in, if i drill this out to 16mm and install a new 10mm bolt with washer, wont this still slop round in hole?
If so i was thinking of welding a small piece of 4mm metal with a 10mm hole in it under the body where the drilled out 16mm hole is, so it doesnt slop. Would that work?
nd painfull is that mod
Punk Hater
Dont know what youre doing to get it done in that time, but ive spent ages on doing this, as i hate doing things a second time, so i do it properly first time.
At the moment im cutting some large washers to shape as reinforcement over the holes from the captive bolts i drilled out.
Should be finished this avo.
At the moment im cutting some large washers to shape as reinforcement over the holes from the captive bolts i drilled out.
Should be finished this avo.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests