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100 series 6 inch lift
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
100 series 6 inch lift
Im thinking of a 1998-2002 model with 4" spring lift and 2" body lift, anyone done it? what problems/issues costs etc.
did a search nothing came up.
are they the same as the 80 series?
dumbdunce? wheres your ass at?
did a search nothing came up.
are they the same as the 80 series?
dumbdunce? wheres your ass at?
hands and mums dont count!!!
Hey man for what its worth I did a body lift with my brother in law on a 100 series and we only encountered the same probs as a hilux and a 60 series we did in terms of lengthening and stuff.
try here:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=52128
The last few posts on this should help. With regards to the 4" lift I can't help out.
Cheers
SANGA
try here:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=52128
The last few posts on this should help. With regards to the 4" lift I can't help out.
Cheers
SANGA
Road Ranger
For those years..... 1998 to 2002 that's the solid axle models,
they're pretty much similar to the 80 series, you shouldn't have any problems just make sure you've got a complete kit.
adjustable panhards, castor plates, swaybar disconnects etc
they're pretty much similar to the 80 series, you shouldn't have any problems just make sure you've got a complete kit.
adjustable panhards, castor plates, swaybar disconnects etc
1998 Toyota Landcruiser 100 series GXL
1976 FJ45 Landcruiser ute
1976 FJ45 Landcruiser ute
Remember that some of the later 100's had airbags which pretty much writes off a standard 'block' body lift if you want to keep it legit.
I had a 5" lift in my 100 series and if I had my time again I would have stuck with the 2" lift and spent the extra $ on a decent rear bar.
With sway bar disconnects they flex pretty good cause of the weight with lockers and decent 35's there's not many places it won't go.
However if you are planning on running it without carrying a s*&t load of gear and accessories and basically running an empty rig then a well setup lift is good, dont't forget that at 6" you will probably be up for at least one new tailshaft and may also need some decent drop boxes/drop arms to keep the alignment anywhere near decent.
But you knew that anyway
Any hoo i've had a few bevvies so thats my $0.02
I had a 5" lift in my 100 series and if I had my time again I would have stuck with the 2" lift and spent the extra $ on a decent rear bar.
With sway bar disconnects they flex pretty good cause of the weight with lockers and decent 35's there's not many places it won't go.
However if you are planning on running it without carrying a s*&t load of gear and accessories and basically running an empty rig then a well setup lift is good, dont't forget that at 6" you will probably be up for at least one new tailshaft and may also need some decent drop boxes/drop arms to keep the alignment anywhere near decent.
But you knew that anyway
Any hoo i've had a few bevvies so thats my $0.02
[url]http://www.my4x4.com.au[/url]
body lift is gay, don't do it. (but it does make it easier to load up sliders)
105 series suspension is more or less identical to 80 series, you can buy a full kit from 4-way, including springs, fat adjustbale shocks, panhards, castor plates. no tailshaft worries but the front angles are steep, expect vibes at high speeds (although my 5" 80 does not have any tailshaft vibes).
swybar extensions are good for maintaining onroad manners, although if I run my front shocks fairly hard (7 out of 9) it is fine for any speed up to 160km/h (about as fast as it will go).
4" springs and no body lift will fit 35's without any trouble but they WILL rub on the back of the rear wheel wells/mud flaps - this is true for any lift unless you shorten the lower arms but that is dumb. the main drama with 80's and 100's is the gay departure angle so if you want to offroad it hard, you will need to chop unless you go barlow-tall (Gigantor) - which is asking for a rollover.
also do not do donuts in a paddock on 35's with a 5" lift, it is asking for a lid-squishing.
105 series suspension is more or less identical to 80 series, you can buy a full kit from 4-way, including springs, fat adjustbale shocks, panhards, castor plates. no tailshaft worries but the front angles are steep, expect vibes at high speeds (although my 5" 80 does not have any tailshaft vibes).
swybar extensions are good for maintaining onroad manners, although if I run my front shocks fairly hard (7 out of 9) it is fine for any speed up to 160km/h (about as fast as it will go).
4" springs and no body lift will fit 35's without any trouble but they WILL rub on the back of the rear wheel wells/mud flaps - this is true for any lift unless you shorten the lower arms but that is dumb. the main drama with 80's and 100's is the gay departure angle so if you want to offroad it hard, you will need to chop unless you go barlow-tall (Gigantor) - which is asking for a rollover.
also do not do donuts in a paddock on 35's with a 5" lift, it is asking for a lid-squishing.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
whats all this about offroading?? rear bar plastic is colour matched!!
its a GXL with aribags!!
so no body lift hey... cool, too late to get 2" springs.... the 4" got here yesterday...
ive only got 285/75s on it at the moment, but i think im chasing a set of 305/85r16 or something? is that a 35" tyre?
its a GXL with aribags!!
so no body lift hey... cool, too late to get 2" springs.... the 4" got here yesterday...
ive only got 285/75s on it at the moment, but i think im chasing a set of 305/85r16 or something? is that a 35" tyre?
hands and mums dont count!!!
they will rub in the back of the rear wheelwell with 5" or 4", and possibly in the front on full articulation - but for notmal driving it will be ok.Kruza wrote:im looking at putting some 36's under my 105 series/beam front end.
Would they clear with a 4" lift or should i look at a 5"?
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
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