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Castor Correction
Castor Correction
I have done some sums and I come up with completely different castor correction figures for GQ radius arms than the normally quoted 5 - 8 deg for a 6 - 8" lift and the old 1 deg per 1" lift.
My figures indicate the following:
For every 1" lift you need 1.8deg correction
For a 6" lift you need and 11deg correction to be equivalent to stock level radius arms.
I am a little confused by the large discrepancy.
Is anyone able to explain how the after-market guys calculate the required correction and indeed the actual castor correction provided by the plates???
My figures indicate the following:
For every 1" lift you need 1.8deg correction
For a 6" lift you need and 11deg correction to be equivalent to stock level radius arms.
I am a little confused by the large discrepancy.
Is anyone able to explain how the after-market guys calculate the required correction and indeed the actual castor correction provided by the plates???
JK, give me the exact measurement from where the radius arm passes through the chassis mount to the axle centreline.
And the height from the ground to the same point on the chassis (radius arm pin center) and from the ground to the axle centreline.
I'll draw it up so the castor change for x amount of lift is in black and white.
And the height from the ground to the same point on the chassis (radius arm pin center) and from the ground to the axle centreline.
I'll draw it up so the castor change for x amount of lift is in black and white.
i dont think caster correction is the way to fix the wobbles as the main problem seems to be the angle of the radius arms.
i dont have the problem any more since i changed to the radius arm drop brackets and i get better downward travel as well.
some 5 links get the wobbles when the arms are on a large angle.
the wizard bolt on one seems pretty good as the angles are low.
just my opinion.......shane
i dont have the problem any more since i changed to the radius arm drop brackets and i get better downward travel as well.
some 5 links get the wobbles when the arms are on a large angle.
the wizard bolt on one seems pretty good as the angles are low.
just my opinion.......shane
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the shimmy is usually flogged out panhrd bushes, because thepanhard angle increases with any lift, it becomes less effective at stopping any sideways movement, so any movement in the bushes shows up worse. Flogged out tie-rod ends, fuct wheel bearings, bad castor settings (not enough or too much), or out of balance wheels will all add to the problem...
Here is how the castor change works with lift. 1.875deg for every inch of lift. Also shown is the amount of correction needed for a 4" lift....
Here is how the castor change works with lift. 1.875deg for every inch of lift. Also shown is the amount of correction needed for a 4" lift....
yes the brackets hit but as the radius arms are in line with them the truck seems to slide straight over the rocks in a forward direction, in a reverse direction they will get hung up though.
because the brackets fit between the cross member and the chassis it drops the cross member slightly and the front tailshaft no longer touches the cross member.
I didnt lose any up travel but gained 3 or 4 inches of down travel as the rear trailing arm pin bushes no longer bind up.
shane
because the brackets fit between the cross member and the chassis it drops the cross member slightly and the front tailshaft no longer touches the cross member.
I didnt lose any up travel but gained 3 or 4 inches of down travel as the rear trailing arm pin bushes no longer bind up.
shane
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I have a good idea!! It will give people a direct impressoin of how the drop bracket ddodads work.
I reckon shane (drop brackets) and JK (no brackets) should both disconnect teir front shocks, reverse up some ramp type thing, and get photos of the amount of travel at the point where the arms bind, the angles of the arms, the amount of stuff/droop, and the amount of front axle steer. We could then also do the same thing with a few different types of 5-links..
I reckon shane (drop brackets) and JK (no brackets) should both disconnect teir front shocks, reverse up some ramp type thing, and get photos of the amount of travel at the point where the arms bind, the angles of the arms, the amount of stuff/droop, and the amount of front axle steer. We could then also do the same thing with a few different types of 5-links..
Wendle wrote:I have a good idea!! It will give people a direct impressoin of how the drop bracket ddodads work.
I reckon shane (drop brackets) and JK (no brackets) should both disconnect teir front shocks, reverse up some ramp type thing, and get photos of the amount of travel at the point where the arms bind, the angles of the arms, the amount of stuff/droop, and the amount of front axle steer. We could then also do the same thing with a few different types of 5-links..
That's so sensible it hurts...
And all that so early on a Friday morning... you must be getting excited about the long weekend or something.
I can get shots of my truck on Surfections 30deg ramp.
BTW, I don't have trouble with droop, it is my full compression that is limited by the binding.
Last edited by JK on Fri Jun 06, 2003 9:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
well, i went out and purchased my self a set of the radius arm drop brackets and a set of second hand radius arms. Put them on last night, and the wobble in the front end is gone, i also notice my radius arm bushes where rooted, they could have been the casue of my problem the whole time, not to worry, have a good week end all.
Shawn
Shawn
heres measurements on a 30 degree ramp from a while ago.
It went up the ramp 2252mm measured at centre of hub with a 90 degree square on the ramp.
height off the ground was 1125mm.
front ways it went up the ramp 2010mm and height was 1000mm exactly.
It went up the ramp 2252mm measured at centre of hub with a 90 degree square on the ramp.
height off the ground was 1125mm.
front ways it went up the ramp 2010mm and height was 1000mm exactly.
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