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SPOA or Spring lift?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
SPOA or Spring lift?
Ok guys and gals
My 60 is currently a topic of debate around my part of the traps. I was going to put a SPOA in (as advised by a certain kaos4x4 person!) however many people reckon that this in a 60 wagon is a shit idea. Those people reckon that a 2" lift would be more than sufficient.
Heres where you come in...let me know from experience of just plain commonsense as to what you reckon
Cheers
SANGA
My 60 is currently a topic of debate around my part of the traps. I was going to put a SPOA in (as advised by a certain kaos4x4 person!) however many people reckon that this in a 60 wagon is a shit idea. Those people reckon that a 2" lift would be more than sufficient.
Heres where you come in...let me know from experience of just plain commonsense as to what you reckon
Cheers
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
Well, all depends on how hardcore you want to go.
You can go just about the same height by either spoa, or combo of spring lift ( 2"+ i'm not sure what lift kits are available) body lift ( 2"+ depends how far they can go) tyres - 33"s 35"s or bigger, extended shackles.
Spring over is good for clearance + approach angle, as your springs are tucked up higher, out of the way.
I've just sprung over my troopy - it rides heaps better on road, flexes better, but at the moment not super flexy.
If you're handy with tools spring over can work out cheapest $ vs height, when you start looking at cost of new lifted springs set. I think, anyway.
But, there are a few spoa 60's around here, so i'm sure they'll chime in.
You can go just about the same height by either spoa, or combo of spring lift ( 2"+ i'm not sure what lift kits are available) body lift ( 2"+ depends how far they can go) tyres - 33"s 35"s or bigger, extended shackles.
Spring over is good for clearance + approach angle, as your springs are tucked up higher, out of the way.
I've just sprung over my troopy - it rides heaps better on road, flexes better, but at the moment not super flexy.
If you're handy with tools spring over can work out cheapest $ vs height, when you start looking at cost of new lifted springs set. I think, anyway.
But, there are a few spoa 60's around here, so i'm sure they'll chime in.
I personally reckon the SOA on 60s is too high and looks OTT. Besides, you don't need it, a half decent spring lift, bigger tyres and lockers would do more for your truck than a spring over. IMHO, etc.
I know that someone who recently left KAOS recommends against it...makes 'em too tippy. Also, with all the engineering and legal complications, a spring over would cost at least as much as the mods I listed above...and potentially make the truck harder to insure and or sell at a later date.
I know that someone who recently left KAOS recommends against it...makes 'em too tippy. Also, with all the engineering and legal complications, a spring over would cost at least as much as the mods I listed above...and potentially make the truck harder to insure and or sell at a later date.
Can you recomend a decent springlift for the 60 series, been looking and all seems the same to a bit of a novice.Diesel 60 wrote:I personally reckon the SOA on 60s is too high and looks OTT. Besides, you don't need it, a half decent spring lift, bigger tyres and lockers would do more for your truck than a spring over. IMHO, etc.
I know that someone who recently left KAOS recommends against it...makes 'em too tippy. Also, with all the engineering and legal complications, a spring over would cost at least as much as the mods I listed above...and potentially make the truck harder to insure and or sell at a later date.
Cheers
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
2"spring, 2"body, 2" shackles.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Can you recomend a decent springlift for the 60 series, been looking and all seems the same to a bit of a novice.Diesel 60 wrote:I personally reckon the SOA on 60s is too high and looks OTT. Besides, you don't need it, a half decent spring lift, bigger tyres and lockers would do more for your truck than a spring over. IMHO, etc.
I know that someone who recently left KAOS recommends against it...makes 'em too tippy. Also, with all the engineering and legal complications, a spring over would cost at least as much as the mods I listed above...and potentially make the truck harder to insure and or sell at a later date.
Cheers
SANGA
[b]1985 HJ60[/b]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
Joel, your recommendation would equate to the aproximate lift to a SOA conversion... why do u think that wasting 2" of height on body lift would be better.joelthommo wrote:2"spring, 2"body, 2" shackles.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Can you recomend a decent springlift for the 60 series, been looking and all seems the same to a bit of a novice.Diesel 60 wrote:I personally reckon the SOA on 60s is too high and looks OTT. Besides, you don't need it, a half decent spring lift, bigger tyres and lockers would do more for your truck than a spring over. IMHO, etc.
I know that someone who recently left KAOS recommends against it...makes 'em too tippy. Also, with all the engineering and legal complications, a spring over would cost at least as much as the mods I listed above...and potentially make the truck harder to insure and or sell at a later date.
Cheers
SANGA
For a SOA to work properly, you should thin down your leaf packs to lower your COG and increase your flex. This will probalbly mean you will need to run a track bar.
I would also like to say that 60's have always looked "tippy" to me but im sure if you thin you packs you will acheive much better results with a SOA.
SOA will also require an engineers certificate, John Wilson from the RTA's list will engineer your 4x4 in ACT at the old drag way (I payed $600 for a SOA conversion).
----HillBilly Engineering----
Well the tracks I drive can be pretty steep (kinda like the KAOS4x4 test tracks out near the clyde. But the terrain on the flats and plataus is strewn with rock and large holes (tops for some articulation). Mus is always an issue when it rains, but I guess that ain't that often. If any of you know the Mongarlowe and Brindebella areas then you k now the tracks I talk of.MY45 wrote:Before you take in any of this advice....WHAT TERRAIN DO YOU DRIVE...mud rocks, sand. Each of these will require a differant approach. Try to be more specific in future posts and you will find the answers you want will be less debatable.
Adam
So does that change what any of you reckon?
Cheers
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
It didn't have to be all three of those surely body lift and shackles would be pretty cheap. I dont know whether hes doing it himself or not, but if he was to do it that way would it be cheaper? I know a propper SOA on a 60 is roughly$4700 with high steer.MY45 wrote:Joel, your recommendation would equate to the aproximate lift to a SOA conversion... why do u think that wasting 2" of height on body lift would be better.joelthommo wrote:2"spring, 2"body, 2" shackles.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Can you recomend a decent springlift for the 60 series, been looking and all seems the same to a bit of a novice.Diesel 60 wrote:I personally reckon the SOA on 60s is too high and looks OTT. Besides, you don't need it, a half decent spring lift, bigger tyres and lockers would do more for your truck than a spring over. IMHO, etc.
I know that someone who recently left KAOS recommends against it...makes 'em too tippy. Also, with all the engineering and legal complications, a spring over would cost at least as much as the mods I listed above...and potentially make the truck harder to insure and or sell at a later date.
Cheers
SANGA
For a SOA to work properly, you should thin down your leaf packs to lower your COG and increase your flex. This will probalbly mean you will need to run a track bar.
I would also like to say that 60's have always looked "tippy" to me but im sure if you thin you packs you will acheive much better results with a SOA.
SOA will also require an engineers certificate, John Wilson from the RTA's list will engineer your 4x4 in ACT at the old drag way (I payed $600 for a SOA conversion).
Last edited by joel HJ60 on Wed Jul 27, 2005 11:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
[b]1985 HJ60[/b]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
Sorry, that was just for the engineers cert. I did my SOA myself and used crossover steering not high steer. It is a very cheap option if you can do it yourself.joelthommo wrote:600 bucks for a spring over!?! Did you do it yourself?
All u need is new shockies, spring perch's and shock mounts. You can easily play around with the spring packs yourself.
----HillBilly Engineering----
What I am after is more flex which goes hand in hand with greater articulation. Do you think extended shackles alone would do this? Or, am I still better off with the spring lift as well?joelthomo wrote:It didn't have to be all three of those surely body lift and shackles would be pretty cheap. I dont know whether hes doing it himself or not, but if he was to do it that way would it be cheaper? I know a propper SOA on a 60 is roughly$4700 with high steer.
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
Im here for the sausage!
Dude go a SPOA!
If you cant do it for a grand with a couple of mates helping you havent tried.
engineering? why worry!
thats a whole other debate though. i have a SPOA40, never had the police or RTA bother me.
value for money its the go.
but yeah as homo45 said take a couple of leaves out.
remember your comparing SPOA to lifted springs, dont worry about the lockers and other stuff people mention in comparison.
If you cant do it for a grand with a couple of mates helping you havent tried.
engineering? why worry!
thats a whole other debate though. i have a SPOA40, never had the police or RTA bother me.
value for money its the go.
but yeah as homo45 said take a couple of leaves out.
remember your comparing SPOA to lifted springs, dont worry about the lockers and other stuff people mention in comparison.
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
SPOA !!! ALL THE WAY
Also the thing people forget is that a flatter spring will articulate more that a heavily arched spring for greater lift.
I agree with above take out some leafs to flatten out the pack and your done.
I done my soa in a weekend and it cost me less than getting new springs all round i think it was under $500 bucks , including u-bolts , shockers , and other bits and bobs.
Also the thing people forget is that a flatter spring will articulate more that a heavily arched spring for greater lift.
I agree with above take out some leafs to flatten out the pack and your done.
I done my soa in a weekend and it cost me less than getting new springs all round i think it was under $500 bucks , including u-bolts , shockers , and other bits and bobs.
Ok this is all tops..but my at home guru (bloddy mates) reckon it matters which order of leaves I take out and neither will aggree on which ones. So If I was to take two out which would be the right ones (if right ones even exist)
Cheers
SANGA
Cheers
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
From memory i think i had duel stage heavy duty packs , and i removed the bottom 3 or 4 and left 5 long leafs ,
now that is super soft but im not going to be driving it everyday on the road , so you may not want to take out as many , but its shit easy remove them then lower the leafs back onto the saddles and let the car sit on them and see how arched they are ,,
if still to much arch in them , remove some more....
now that is super soft but im not going to be driving it everyday on the road , so you may not want to take out as many , but its shit easy remove them then lower the leafs back onto the saddles and let the car sit on them and see how arched they are ,,
if still to much arch in them , remove some more....
Regarding the engineering...sure it costs more and is a hassle, but you have a prang and your vehicle is found to be illegal, not only do you lose your chance of an insurance claim, you could be in a heap of trouble.
I have a problem with the attitude that "if I don't get caught then it's ok". You reckon the authorities make engineering a requirement just to ruin your day or do ya think maybe it has something to do with safey
Going by that attitude, if I need a child seat, I just need to take to a foam box with a stanley knife, hit it with some glue and paint and tie it into the car with a bit of rope...hey the police and RTA won't know, so my kids will be safe.
I have a problem with the attitude that "if I don't get caught then it's ok". You reckon the authorities make engineering a requirement just to ruin your day or do ya think maybe it has something to do with safey
Going by that attitude, if I need a child seat, I just need to take to a foam box with a stanley knife, hit it with some glue and paint and tie it into the car with a bit of rope...hey the police and RTA won't know, so my kids will be safe.
Ok guys,
The spring over is now the way I'm a goin But I need to purchase some shocks (or dampers as Dumbdunce may correct me) to accomodate two leaves being taken out of the packs. Also the shocks need to be really quite cheap to fit into budget.
So, any suggestions as to which shocks and length, hopefully Hey Charger can help with this.
Cheers
SANGA
The spring over is now the way I'm a goin But I need to purchase some shocks (or dampers as Dumbdunce may correct me) to accomodate two leaves being taken out of the packs. Also the shocks need to be really quite cheap to fit into budget.
So, any suggestions as to which shocks and length, hopefully Hey Charger can help with this.
Cheers
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
Dont buy the shocks before the SOA is done and you have your spring packs to were u want them. Then ramp it (or find a nice wash out) to find min and max length that the shock needs to be and then add about 40-50mm to them (incase you hit a bump at full flex and compress the springs a little more thatn when stationary).Guy From Nowhere wrote:Ok guys,
The spring over is now the way I'm a goin But I need to purchase some shocks (or dampers as Dumbdunce may correct me) to accomodate two leaves being taken out of the packs. Also the shocks need to be really quite cheap to fit into budget.
So, any suggestions as to which shocks and length, hopefully Hey Charger can help with this.
Cheers
SANGA
Then buy your shocks, have a look at the rancho 5000's and the procomp 500o's. The procomps seem to be a good 4x4 shock.
Now depending on your packs you should remove the small load leave (if the rear has any), 1 or 2 of the smaller leaves and one of the longer leaves (3rd or 4th from the top of the pack). the longer the leaf you remove the softer your springs will become.
If it does have 2 load leaves in the rear leaver the long one in the rear and put the smaller one on the bottom of the front pack. This reduces the axel wrap quite significantly.
Adam
----HillBilly Engineering----
Yeah I agree with the back being too heavy and creating too much body roll, but give me six months (or a little more depending on funds) and it will be an extra cab ute. I believe this will solve the rear end problem!turbo4t wrote:I'm a big fan of the SOA in anything except a 60. In my opinion they're too back heavy, especially when climbing and all the weight shifts backwards. You'll get 35's under there with some decent springs if you don't mind a little scrubbage.
And, yes I know it would be easier to buy an extra or dual cab but the old gal has character and I'm not going to let go
Cheers
SANGA
[quote="MissForbyNooB"] I've played with you AND your missus. [/quote]
Ute chop would be the go.Guy From Nowhere wrote:Yeah I agree with the back being too heavy and creating too much body roll, but give me six months (or a little more depending on funds) and it will be an extra cab ute. I believe this will solve the rear end problem!turbo4t wrote:I'm a big fan of the SOA in anything except a 60. In my opinion they're too back heavy, especially when climbing and all the weight shifts backwards. You'll get 35's under there with some decent springs if you don't mind a little scrubbage.
And, yes I know it would be easier to buy an extra or dual cab but the old gal has character and I'm not going to let go
Cheers
SANGA
Ok, SPOA is set to happen in the next few weeks I have most of it sorted but need to locate some spring perches. Don't really want to reuse the old ones and the only new ones I seem to be able to find are at Superior Engineering. Is there anything closer to canberra (i.e. Sydney and the whereabouts)?
Or any better ideas?
SANGA
Or any better ideas?
SANGA
Big balls sell them, as do maquarie 4x4. Both in western SydneyGuy From Nowhere wrote:Ok, SPOA is set to happen in the next few weeks I have most of it sorted but need to locate some spring perches. Don't really want to reuse the old ones and the only new ones I seem to be able to find are at Superior Engineering. Is there anything closer to canberra (i.e. Sydney and the whereabouts)?
Or any better ideas?
SANGA
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