considering putting a 3-link on the front of my hilux to match an A-frame on the back, decided against 5-link for various reasons
just wondering what everyone else thought, its main priority is hardnut weekend off road use and hopefully some comps, but it will still be putting in a few road miles as well
what do you all think, DO's and DONT's, PRO's and CON's etc etc
also when setting it up, on all the set-ups i've seen the 3rd link, the top one is always on the passenger side, just near where the panhard attaches to the diff.......thats not a hard and fast rule is it???
theres no problem mounting it on top of the diff pumpkin is there????
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3-link questions???
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3-link questions???
My name is Rob.
Daily Tourer: GU - 6.5 Chev Turbo, ARB's, 33's, Barwork, Drawers etc
Play: Hilux dual cab - 5 litre, Twins, Buds front & 2010 rear, 35s
Comp: Ruffs old green Hilux
Daily Tourer: GU - 6.5 Chev Turbo, ARB's, 33's, Barwork, Drawers etc
Play: Hilux dual cab - 5 litre, Twins, Buds front & 2010 rear, 35s
Comp: Ruffs old green Hilux
Re: 3-link questions???
The single upper link can be offset to counter torque reaction during acceleration.Elmo wrote:considering putting a 3-link on the front of my hilux to match an A-frame on the back, decided against 5-link for various reasons
just wondering what everyone else thought, its main priority is hardnut weekend off road use and hopefully some comps, but it will still be putting in a few road miles as well
what do you all think, DO's and DONT's, PRO's and CON's etc etc
also when setting it up, on all the set-ups i've seen the 3rd link, the top one is always on the passenger side, just near where the panhard attaches to the diff.......thats not a hard and fast rule is it???
theres no problem mounting it on top of the diff pumpkin is there????
During acceleration, the front upper link is in compression. So if the link slopes up toward the chassis it should be offset the right hand side of centre to countract the torque. If it slopes down toward the chassis it should be offset to the left hand side of centre.
The amount of offset to exactly offset the upper link depemds on the spacing of the lower links and the reduction ratio of the crownwheel and pinion in the diff.
On centre is best for hard braking so don't be too concerned about how much to offset it - use the minimum to clear stuff (like the engine sump). Just about everything do is a compromise.
John
Re: 3-link questions???
Exactly wat bush65 said.Bush65 wrote:During acceleration, the front upper link is in compression. So if the link slopes up toward the chassis it should be offset the right hand side of centre to countract the torque. If it slopes down toward the chassis it should be offset to the left hand side of centre..
Another thing is if your using single upper link build it strong, cause when or if the vehicle is bouncing it gets all the compression loading. Make sure both mounts (on diff and chassis) are strong.
Ow and post lots of pics
ive got my upper link to the drivers side and its fine.
the reason i did it this way was for clearance. it would come very close to the exhaust if put on the passanger side.
as said make the top link decent in strength.
the reason i did it this way was for clearance. it would come very close to the exhaust if put on the passanger side.
as said make the top link decent in strength.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
make the chassis mount for the top link in the same plane as the lower links (imagin a bolt right through the three mounts)this is the princible that Glen dobbin has with the A frames. it works like a motor bike swing arm and the radious arms on an 80. keeps the pinion uni pointing at the output flange too(need cv or double cardinal on output flange)
Chad
Chad
if this is in the rear go a triangluated 4 link, it will work way better than what you have now.
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
read and understand this, get the 4 link calculator and start measuring, searching pirate will give you plenty of ideas as well.
What ever you use for the lowers make them strong, avoid using tube for them, if you insist on tube, weld a thick fin along the top of them.
Making the uppers adjustable will allow you to play with your pinion angle but try and get as close as possible to to the right angles (ie both flange faces parallel if your running unis each end)
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticl ... index.html
read and understand this, get the 4 link calculator and start measuring, searching pirate will give you plenty of ideas as well.
What ever you use for the lowers make them strong, avoid using tube for them, if you insist on tube, weld a thick fin along the top of them.
Making the uppers adjustable will allow you to play with your pinion angle but try and get as close as possible to to the right angles (ie both flange faces parallel if your running unis each end)
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