I am just about to purchase a 91 model sierra and i am going to do a 2" BL and fit extended shackels and fit 31" mongrels.
Does this sound like a good set up? Any comments or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Also, with the 2" BL are there any other things that need to be extended/modified for exmaple clutch cable linkage or brake lines?
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91 model sierra, stock as a rock
dont need anything.
ive done both, although brake lines are getting a touch tight on flex down tho, but you need a fair bit to make em tight. will most likely be fine without getting new ones(this is for the front btw)
no other extends are needed for bl.
ive done both, although brake lines are getting a touch tight on flex down tho, but you need a fair bit to make em tight. will most likely be fine without getting new ones(this is for the front btw)
no other extends are needed for bl.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
if you get a proper BL kit with tapped solid metal spacers you should be fine. you can undo the bracket where the hard line joins onto the soft brake line and move it down slightly. you will also want to check that a steering shaft extension comes with the kit. it's an easy job to fit if you have two people. you may still get rubbing on the bumper with 31s. your transfer case lever maybe touch the tunnel in 4L but you can cut a small notch to make room.
Ditto what N*A*M said.
A good kit would have everything including instructions, not many good kits though (heaps of overpriced half arsed efforts available). Just a second rag joint (the little wheel of rubbery canvas in your steering shaft) with slightly longer bolts is sufficient to handle the extension created in the steering safely.
This is a topic covered many times before so a search will reveal lots of useful hints and tips for when you do it.
Also worth considering in advance the impact of anything attached to the chassis, eg bullbar. Do you want to lift that too or have it sit low in relation to the body.
Do you have comprehensive insurance? Very few insurance companies like body lifts even if engineered.
2" BL and 31" tyres is a good setup, once you "massage" the seam at the rear of the front wheel arches and trim the outside attachments for a stock bumper (easiest to cut the whole thing off)
As far as brakelines go. The BL and 31s do not affect the flexible lines, unlike a SPOA. The hardlines do need to be lowered slightly, if you look at them (just below master cylinder) you will see where they are attached to the body, and as luck would have it just below there is already a hole to which they can be reconnected. A simple and quick job.
A good kit would have everything including instructions, not many good kits though (heaps of overpriced half arsed efforts available). Just a second rag joint (the little wheel of rubbery canvas in your steering shaft) with slightly longer bolts is sufficient to handle the extension created in the steering safely.
This is a topic covered many times before so a search will reveal lots of useful hints and tips for when you do it.
Also worth considering in advance the impact of anything attached to the chassis, eg bullbar. Do you want to lift that too or have it sit low in relation to the body.
Do you have comprehensive insurance? Very few insurance companies like body lifts even if engineered.
2" BL and 31" tyres is a good setup, once you "massage" the seam at the rear of the front wheel arches and trim the outside attachments for a stock bumper (easiest to cut the whole thing off)
As far as brakelines go. The BL and 31s do not affect the flexible lines, unlike a SPOA. The hardlines do need to be lowered slightly, if you look at them (just below master cylinder) you will see where they are attached to the body, and as luck would have it just below there is already a hole to which they can be reconnected. A simple and quick job.
sounds like a good set up...cheap and effective!! everyone else has pretty much covered the body lift. All that is needed is move bracket on brake lines down, steering shaft spacer and you will need to loosen fuel filler hose and move it along slightly but don't need new one. As for the mongrels...I just bought a set of 32's and bang for your buck are great. I would personally get the 32's though as they are monoform (new rubber bead to bead) whereas the 31's are retread (new rubber on top only). Also the 32's are softer compound and give better grip. Plus theres only 11mm difference in diameter as 31's are biggish (781mm 31.2 inches) and 32's are smallish (792mm 31.6 inches) so very small difference. Just give the seam in the rear of the front guards a bit of a bash and as said before maybe trim the bumber mounts a bit. cheers.
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
Was going to mention the fuel filler I forgot before, but looks like someone else remembered. With a bit of planning you will not have a full tank when you start the BL, makes it easier to move the bottom end.
One other thing, though I have not done it (or even know anyone who has). When consulting an engineer on similar mods, he recommended that new mudflaps be fitted. he stated that even if he certifies the mods, the RTA will look for other little things to be picky, and he has seen them knock a car back until new mudflaps are fitted which cover at least the top half of the wheel. Stock ones if attached to the body will move up 2" with BL, exposing more of the very obvious bigger rubber.
One other thing, though I have not done it (or even know anyone who has). When consulting an engineer on similar mods, he recommended that new mudflaps be fitted. he stated that even if he certifies the mods, the RTA will look for other little things to be picky, and he has seen them knock a car back until new mudflaps are fitted which cover at least the top half of the wheel. Stock ones if attached to the body will move up 2" with BL, exposing more of the very obvious bigger rubber.
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