gday, would that be a decent set up...?
does any one have some pics of these mods.. caus i would like to see what it would look like
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zuk: 2" lift + spoa + 32" muddies
Re: zuk: 2" lift + spoa + 32" muddies
I run 34s with a 2" BL and 2" springs SPUA and gaurd trimming. Your proposed combo would be very tall to run that tyre. Have a look through the Suzuki section and members areas to see what people are doing to fit their tyres.chunkz wrote:gday, would that be a decent set up...?
does any one have some pics of these mods.. caus i would like to see what it would look like
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I thought redzook made it pretty clear.
SPOA clears the underneath of the axel tube as well, so you don't get hung up of rocks and crap.
Or you could put a heap of effort in and get a nice smooth tube if you do the same as LJxtreem..... he can post a pic or you can search for it.
What sort of stuff do you want to drive in?
SPOA clears the underneath of the axel tube as well, so you don't get hung up of rocks and crap.
Or you could put a heap of effort in and get a nice smooth tube if you do the same as LJxtreem..... he can post a pic or you can search for it.
What sort of stuff do you want to drive in?
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In general I don't think that warburton is that hard an area. a stckish sierra with say 31's and a rear locker will be pretty sweet to drive around there.
The key to capability is tyre size/pattern, no amount of lift will improve traction or ground clearance - only tyre size will do that. If the practical tyre you choose is a 32, then my thinking says do the minimum work necessary to run that tyre.
with careful work on the guards, a sierra can run a 32" tyre with stock suspension with only a 2" body lift.
Likewise, properly bumpstopped, a spoa can run a 32 no worries. I cannot see the point of both - I can think of a few places around warburton where that set up would put you on your side, or limit the lines you could drive severely, just because of the height.
that said, SPOA are expensive to pay to get right, and a hassle to get right yourself. I see very few that I like, or that I think have all of the hassles worked out of them. ( I am a well known SPOA basher, so pay as much attention as you like.)
If I were you and wanted to run a 32 in the area you are describing, I would shoot for a 2" BL and off the shelf suspension kit for around 2" of lift. (I like OME) This will give a nice stable car with ample flexibility for the area you are driving, and the minimum of modifications (and none that can't be easily removed should you want to do something else)
It won't be as "big" or as spectacular as a SPOA/BL car, but it will run like this for years, which is more than can be said for most SPOA cars, which tend to be a bit of a work in progress and get "developed" over the years, changing things like springs, steering setup and traction bars, which is coolif you like to fabricate, but bad if you want to drive stuff.
The key to capability is tyre size/pattern, no amount of lift will improve traction or ground clearance - only tyre size will do that. If the practical tyre you choose is a 32, then my thinking says do the minimum work necessary to run that tyre.
with careful work on the guards, a sierra can run a 32" tyre with stock suspension with only a 2" body lift.
Likewise, properly bumpstopped, a spoa can run a 32 no worries. I cannot see the point of both - I can think of a few places around warburton where that set up would put you on your side, or limit the lines you could drive severely, just because of the height.
that said, SPOA are expensive to pay to get right, and a hassle to get right yourself. I see very few that I like, or that I think have all of the hassles worked out of them. ( I am a well known SPOA basher, so pay as much attention as you like.)
If I were you and wanted to run a 32 in the area you are describing, I would shoot for a 2" BL and off the shelf suspension kit for around 2" of lift. (I like OME) This will give a nice stable car with ample flexibility for the area you are driving, and the minimum of modifications (and none that can't be easily removed should you want to do something else)
It won't be as "big" or as spectacular as a SPOA/BL car, but it will run like this for years, which is more than can be said for most SPOA cars, which tend to be a bit of a work in progress and get "developed" over the years, changing things like springs, steering setup and traction bars, which is coolif you like to fabricate, but bad if you want to drive stuff.
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I agree with the comments made by Gwagensteve, and would add that anytime you start modifying your Zook you are starting down the "work in progress" track. If you increase the diameter of your wheel, your overall gearing suffers. To overcome this you need to make changes to your driveline (reduction gears, diff gearing etc) just to stay as good as stock let alone than go better. Whilst a SPOA with lifted springs and a BL can run huge rubber and look really cool to your mates, it will most likely wheel offroad like a piece of shit.
It is always a good idea to try and get a ride in something like what you are aiming for before you shell out the $$ or do any work. Riding tall may look cool, but how does it handle side angles, tippy? has your steering geometry been compromised. The big rubber definitely is good for posing, but how hard is your little Zook working to get up that hill you always drive? etc etc
There are many good setups, each with their own strengths and weaknesses.
It is always a good idea to try and get a ride in something like what you are aiming for before you shell out the $$ or do any work. Riding tall may look cool, but how does it handle side angles, tippy? has your steering geometry been compromised. The big rubber definitely is good for posing, but how hard is your little Zook working to get up that hill you always drive? etc etc
There are many good setups, each with their own strengths and weaknesses.
wouldnt agree with the tippee comment spoa on lux diffs 2in bl 33 jt2s drove out of this unnassisted not havin a go at ya i just dont agree 
it all depends on what your driving and how much work you want to do and also he amount of cash you want to throw at it to.i ran zook diffs spoa with 2in bl with 32s for 2 years before goin lux and it wheeled well definately wouldnt say it was unstable.all depends on what terrain you drive as well though.we drive alot of big rock so the extra chassis clearance is needed so spoa works well in the areas i drive
it all depends on what your driving and how much work you want to do and also he amount of cash you want to throw at it to.i ran zook diffs spoa with 2in bl with 32s for 2 years before goin lux and it wheeled well definately wouldnt say it was unstable.all depends on what terrain you drive as well though.we drive alot of big rock so the extra chassis clearance is needed so spoa works well in the areas i driveYou do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
84 model hardtop, 86in wb, 36 iroks, locked front and rear, lux diffs, exo, power steer, fuel injected 4k corolla 1.3,auto transmission ,2in wheel spacers,3/4 elliptic rear
Just thought I'd add my experiences here...
I ran 31's with stock everything. just did a little bit of scalpting with the guards (just flattened the sharp lines and hit the firewall in a bit to clear at full flex was a great setup in my opinion, cheap easy low and I also had a welded rear diff, drove most things ok.
Now I'm building the same car up with SPOA on 60's cruiser diffs and 35's with guard trimming. Everything clears and should be a good setup when complete I think.
If I was running stock running gear and looking to run only 31's, I would be doing some mild guard trimming and/or reshaping again and no lift IMO.
Mark.
I ran 31's with stock everything. just did a little bit of scalpting with the guards (just flattened the sharp lines and hit the firewall in a bit to clear at full flex
was a great setup in my opinion, cheap easy low and I also had a welded rear diff, drove most things ok.Now I'm building the same car up with SPOA on 60's cruiser diffs and 35's with guard trimming. Everything clears and should be a good setup when complete I think.
If I was running stock running gear and looking to run only 31's, I would be doing some mild guard trimming and/or reshaping again and no lift IMO.
Mark.
Mark.
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