Well...it's been gradually getting worse and worse...and after the run on Saturday it's quite nasty now :(
Basically, under torque, the whole gearbox is shifting towards the drivers door. I guess the mount/s are stuffed? Anyone know about replacing these? Cost, how to etc? Wondering if it's something I can do myself or if I need a pro....
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Wobbly Gearbox
Moderator: Tiny
Yep, I've read somewhere else that's the sign of the gearbox or engine mount broken. It should be easy to do yourself, just use a trolley jack or the like to lift and take the weight of the engine while you replace the old mount.
Last time I was under mine all the mounts looked really easy to access. Just make sure you choose a solid point to put the jack under......
Last time I was under mine all the mounts looked really easy to access. Just make sure you choose a solid point to put the jack under......
David
Murray,
I recently replaced the three engine isolaters, ie engine and gearbox mounts. The only hard one is the engine mount under the inlet manafold. The other side and the gearbox mounts arew dead easy. You will need a good floor jack and you can do the 2 engine mounts at the same time.
I got mine from Lincorp at Rosehill 96845777 for about $240.00 all up. You will be amazed at how much better your Feroza will run. Real smooth.
I recently replaced the three engine isolaters, ie engine and gearbox mounts. The only hard one is the engine mount under the inlet manafold. The other side and the gearbox mounts arew dead easy. You will need a good floor jack and you can do the 2 engine mounts at the same time.
I got mine from Lincorp at Rosehill 96845777 for about $240.00 all up. You will be amazed at how much better your Feroza will run. Real smooth.
Beer is the living proof that God loves us and wants us to be Happy.
Cheers Leon...
Cheers Leon...
You'll know by looking at them. The rubber bit in between the mount plates that is supposed to flex will most likely be torn in half.
You might be able to find a cheaper mount that will fit eg the ones off six cylinder Cortinas can be adapted to lots of vehicles plus are cheap and strong. Go to a place that has the mounts out where you can look at them yourself and compare them to your old one.
If you go for a firmer mount you will get more vibration throughout the whole car though!
You might be able to find a cheaper mount that will fit eg the ones off six cylinder Cortinas can be adapted to lots of vehicles plus are cheap and strong. Go to a place that has the mounts out where you can look at them yourself and compare them to your old one.
If you go for a firmer mount you will get more vibration throughout the whole car though!
David
More than likely it will be the engine mount on the passenger side. (I went through about 3 of them 
) A common problem when using your Feroza as a 4WD OFF-ROAD vehicle !!
Get a replacement one from the wreckers and install it. (Easy job) While your'e replacing it, also weld a small section of chain from either side of the mounts so next time when it breaks, you won't get as much torque bind every time you 'stick your foot into it' ! Either that or carry some fencing wire with you, next time it breaks, wrap fencing wire around the mounts to keep it located until you can get another mount.
This will also stop your gear levers hitting the side of the tunnel, trying to make it bigger
) A common problem when using your Feroza as a 4WD OFF-ROAD vehicle !!
Get a replacement one from the wreckers and install it. (Easy job) While your'e replacing it, also weld a small section of chain from either side of the mounts so next time when it breaks, you won't get as much torque bind every time you 'stick your foot into it' ! Either that or carry some fencing wire with you, next time it breaks, wrap fencing wire around the mounts to keep it located until you can get another mount.
This will also stop your gear levers hitting the side of the tunnel, trying to make it bigger
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
I'll check the local wreckers up here later this week. They are pretty good seem to have everything.
Is it going to be okay to drive the beast around? I don't think it's broken clean off, still takes a fair bit to move it...and only then really offroad or up a steep incline..
Man I got some things to fix...clutch needs doing as well...doh!
Is it going to be okay to drive the beast around? I don't think it's broken clean off, still takes a fair bit to move it...and only then really offroad or up a steep incline..
Man I got some things to fix...clutch needs doing as well...doh!
Should be OK to drive....just don't 'torque' your engine too much.
It probably has broken all the way through, but the weight of the engine is holding it in place. Only problem would be torquing it too much and 'dislocating' the engine, putting more stress/strain on the other mounts etc.
It probably has broken all the way through, but the weight of the engine is holding it in place. Only problem would be torquing it too much and 'dislocating' the engine, putting more stress/strain on the other mounts etc.
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest