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mating auto to sierra transfer
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mating auto to sierra transfer
has anyone got any good ideas for mating a toyota trimatic to the zook transfer theres not much room left with the extra length of the auto any ideas apprecited thanks in advance 
84 model hardtop, 86in wb, 36 iroks, locked front and rear, lux diffs, exo, power steer, fuel injected 4k corolla 1.3,auto transmission ,2in wheel spacers,3/4 elliptic rear
Re: mating auto to sierra transfer
I looked into that idea, and is still a maybe, but in a lwb is much easier.roc box wrote:has anyone got any good ideas for mating a toyota trimatic to the zook transfer theres not much room left with the extra length of the auto any ideas apprecited thanks in advance
I was going to move the t-case back, so as to use a front tail shaft in the rear, and rear in the front. Then shorten the jack shaft to suit. I doubt it that simple in a swb, and I only did rough measurements. I decided my pile of manual stuff was all too good and cheap, not to use it.
You can get away with using a cv instead of a jackshaft (joeys first sr20 conversion was in a swb and used this idea). Vibrations can be an issue if it isn't all perfect, tho.
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
thanks christover was thinking the rubber torque block like [similar]to the ones on vt commodores ,a local has done it but is on holidays im going to ring him to find out which one it is apparrently it works great[this guys a pedantic bugger ]ill let you know how i go thanks for the input 
84 model hardtop, 86in wb, 36 iroks, locked front and rear, lux diffs, exo, power steer, fuel injected 4k corolla 1.3,auto transmission ,2in wheel spacers,3/4 elliptic rear
I'm an ex Moke owner. The early ones used a rubber cross instead of a uni joint in the driveshafts. These wore out much faster than the later steel unis and cv types, but had much less vibration issues, and also they broke instead of more expensive and difficult to fix diffs and such...its good to have a weak point with easy access....I think the commy rubber block sounds a great idea, plenty available and an easyish fit.roc box wrote:thanks christover was thinking the rubber torque block like [similar]to the ones on vt commodores ,a local has done it but is on holidays im going to ring him to find out which one it is apparrently it works great[this guys a pedantic bugger ]ill let you know how i go thanks for the input
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
i was lucky with mine, the mazda jatco 3 speed (similar to a VL box) the output shaft with the uni on the end was the same yoke and cup size as a 1L sierra uni, so i just put the 2 halves together and redrilled the 1.3L flange on the transfer and bloted it all up.
Chris
Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
I am not a fan of the rubber block type coupler, or any other combination that really only has one flex point.
I think that the factory sierra has close to the shortest jackshaft you could get away with without unacceptable vibration, and decent uni and bearing life.
sure you can do lots of things that are shorter, but so long as you realise that the shorter you go, the greater the chance of vibration, short uni/bearing life etc.
any of the really short combinations, such as a rover/volvo/whatever coupling or a single uni will not allow the gearbox and the transfer to move in the independant planes they were intended to, so IMHO, you will be asking for trouble.
I'm sure that there ar eplenty of people out there that are running short combinations, but there are also plenty of stock sierras over 10years old with a gazillion miles on them with the stock unis in the jackshaft, which is more that can be said for the short combinations I have seen
It is not for nothing that I like LWB's
I think that the factory sierra has close to the shortest jackshaft you could get away with without unacceptable vibration, and decent uni and bearing life.
sure you can do lots of things that are shorter, but so long as you realise that the shorter you go, the greater the chance of vibration, short uni/bearing life etc.
any of the really short combinations, such as a rover/volvo/whatever coupling or a single uni will not allow the gearbox and the transfer to move in the independant planes they were intended to, so IMHO, you will be asking for trouble.
I'm sure that there ar eplenty of people out there that are running short combinations, but there are also plenty of stock sierras over 10years old with a gazillion miles on them with the stock unis in the jackshaft, which is more that can be said for the short combinations I have seen
It is not for nothing that I like LWB's
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
i think i may have it sussed
im going to try to use half sierra flange half toyota run a single uni set up ,im hoping the toyo uni caps will swap with the sierra ones so where it comes out of the auto it will be toyo flange then have zook uni caps on the other side into the zook flange onto the transfer case if the caps dont swap ill get the flang machine a little to accept the yota cap [its only .4 the difference]and then i may run solid mounts all round because it will have to be spot in line to work ,thanks for the input guys much appreciated
ill let yas know how it goes
84 model hardtop, 86in wb, 36 iroks, locked front and rear, lux diffs, exo, power steer, fuel injected 4k corolla 1.3,auto transmission ,2in wheel spacers,3/4 elliptic rear
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