2" body lift HELP?!

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 7:41 am

I want to put a2" body lift in my 95GQ patrol ute coil cab
do I have to upgrade anything else if I do this?

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 8:45 am

yes, GQ patrols, are notorious for punching body lifts through the floor

beef up your floor mounts, the rest should shift up pretty easy, can do it an hour or two

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 9:12 am

how/what do I beef it up with?

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:23 am

just a piece of flat plate, even only 2 or 3mm, up to 5mm, will be sufficient, it is to spread the load more evenly across, a larger surface area, so as you don't tear the floor, because they are weak, and move a lot (wagons are BAD for it) utes are normally ok, less body = less leverage!

all you gotta do is spread the area of the mount surface over say twice the stock surface area...

do you get it?

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:25 am

yeah thanks
gonna do it all myself save some dollars
will I have any trouble with brake lines/hosing steering or anything?

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:29 am

NO it all has enough room for a 2" BL!!

if the steering shaft is the non-collapsible type, then a steel or rubber spacer with some longer bolts is used, but mostly, the steering shafts (ive only seen the wagons) have collapsible joints, which stretch more than enough

Post by **Damo** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:33 am

Piece of piss huh, I told you man, just DO IT!

Or is that GET IT?

BJ should know, he's t eh mastuer...

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:37 am

GQs on the whole are very simple and have very minor issues, a child could do it :twisted:

lift the tray too

i was thinking townsville hey!! another one of damos boyfriends?

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:40 am

screw u hippy :bad-words:

hahaha

yes I will be lifting the tray 3"

Post by **Damo** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 10:45 am

Hey Rob, how about you go outside and play hide-and-go-fawk-yourself?

:fist:

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:06 am

The 'F' word, is one of the most interesting words in the english language, of all the words that begin with the letter, F, fawk, is the only one referred to as the 'F' word

now you two boys, both jumping to each others defence, and saying similar things, people might get suspicious :roll:

Post by **Damo** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:15 am

Bah! red headed freak :lol:

On the body lift thing, he'll have to cut and shut the mounts on his winch bar so it matches the body lift wont he?

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:17 am

you can leave the bar, for a while, but it looks funky, yeah lifting the bar is just some 5mm plate/angle, or bigger....depending

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:19 am

time to break out the welder and grinder then
could be dangerous might make a mess of it

Post by **speedyracetape** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:35 am

you will have to play abit with your 4wd gear stick,it will hit the body when you put it in 4 low.other than that what B.J said is about it...have fun............and your radiator, the bottom of the shroud should clip off...if you forget you will work it out when you start it up...not a good sound...

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:36 am

what the .. how do I fix that?

Post by **Juzza** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:39 am

And remember to remove the clip -out piece in the bottom of the radiator fan shroud

Post by **Damo** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:39 am

you gotta cut the mounts off your winch bar and lower them 2" so it matches up with the body lift

otherwise it's gonna look rewted, and usually the top bar on the winch bar blocks the headlight

instead of cutting you might be able to make a bracket out of flat plate that moves the bar up 2", that's prolly the best way to go.

Post by **speedyracetape** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:44 am

when you pull the gear stick boot off pull it in to low4 it only just touchs the body,mine did but it is a 91 gq cab on a 89wagon chassis,they shouldm't be much diffrents i don't think.....i just trimed it out with tin snips

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:45 am

coooool
not many modified 4wds in townsville .. this should be sweet

Post by **speedyracetape** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:50 am

can you weld??????????if you can chop the ass clean off the back of our tray and shorten your chassis about 150 -200mm it looks fat and your departure angle is heeps better

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:52 am

who can't weld?
I thought about that ... ALOT
but I would have to move my fuel tank as well .. got an aftermarket one .. might go back to an orginal 70ltr or what ever they are

Post by **Damo** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 12:14 pm

Man, i can't believe this thread got to 2 pages... :roll:

Post by **moose** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 12:40 pm

bj , stick to tiotas !!!
2 hours !!! i,d like to see that !!!!!

gear levers foul on the floor !
clutch flexi line braket has to be re-worked(bent)
rad bottom shroud
steering shaft/move shaft up splines

raise bullbar
when raising tray/fuel filler neck-lengthen

95 models already have xtra strengthing in floors around body mounts !!!
HAVE FUN !!!!!!

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 2:28 pm

whats the deal with the steering shaft?! explain more so I can do it

Post by **Wendle** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 7:31 am

Actually, 2 hours for a 2" lift is pretty realistic. If it is a TJM bar there is only about 30 minutes welding to lift it. ARB is another story (big boxed mounts).
3" lift is almost a full weekend bonanza thanks to the fact that nearly everything has to be fuct with..

Post by **Wendle** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 7:33 am

Terrafirma wrote:whats the deal with the steering shaft?! explain more so I can do it

loosen the spline clamp at the rag joint. lift the truck and retighten. 2" lift it only moves about 3mm. With a 3" lift it starts to slide out a fair way..

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2" body lift HELP?!

2" body lift HELP?!

body lift !!!

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