Hi Guys....
As some of you may have noticed, i am selling my modified Wrangler and am thinking of getting a 1997 onwards Land Rover Defender 110.
What made me decide to get this vehicle is that it's so capable straight from factory. One cencern that i DO have is the lack of power for such a large car. 90kw is nothing to write home about (compared to jeep's 130kw and it's 400kg lighter).
I haven't got access to drive a Defender 110 from any of the dealers in perth but what i want to know is.....how gutless is the 2.4l turbo? what kind of performance figures are we looking at? (i.e. 0-100km in how many sec?)
Thanks for your help.
Also, any other info you can provide would be appreciated.
Cheers
Kris
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Jeeper considering Defender 110
Moderator: Micka
I've got the TD5 with the upgraded chip and 3" exhaust. It is now running at around 150kw and still pulls around 10l/100km on fuel.
At standard, the diesel is slow until the turbo spools up, but any concern about the motor not being big enough is foolish.
Off-road, the gearing and torque make light work of many tracks and with a bit of lift and bigger rubber - I run 37s on standard gear with a 4" lift - you will be constantly looking back to make sure your mates got thru.
Good luck with it.
Do plenty of searches before you buy.
Micka
At standard, the diesel is slow until the turbo spools up, but any concern about the motor not being big enough is foolish.
Off-road, the gearing and torque make light work of many tracks and with a bit of lift and bigger rubber - I run 37s on standard gear with a 4" lift - you will be constantly looking back to make sure your mates got thru.
Good luck with it.
Do plenty of searches before you buy.
Micka
In the discos a chipped TD5 can go better than the V8. It is well worth the money to get the chip and intercooler upgrade. With both done they are close to 170kw & 500nm whilst still getting better than 12l/100 km.
IMO look for about a 2000 model as you still get the salsbury rear diff and you also get the TD5.
The TDI's (to 1998) are a good economical motor but no rocket ship.
Biggest thing with any landy, make sure they have been serviced on time every time.
Welcome to the club
IMO look for about a 2000 model as you still get the salsbury rear diff and you also get the TD5.
The TDI's (to 1998) are a good economical motor but no rocket ship.
Biggest thing with any landy, make sure they have been serviced on time every time.
Welcome to the club
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
I have the 300tdi in my fender and while no rocketship it will sit on 110 all day and return figures of around 9-11l per 100k.
A few fuel pump mods and a decent exhaust will have you keeping up with traffic no problems.
A few fuel pump mods and a decent exhaust will have you keeping up with traffic no problems.
"Why do the British drink their beer at room temperature? Because Lucas builds their refrigerators."
Thanks for your responces guys.
So i should be looking at a 2000 model and up right? What is the major difference between the 2000 model and previous ones?
How much can i expect to pay for a chip upgrade and intercooler? Is there a package that you can buy at all?
With 150kw and 400nm i will be more than satisfied.
Also...how much would i need to spend to get some 33's under the rover?
What is the stock gear ratio? And is the turbo upgradable for more power?
What should i look out for when buying a Defender 110? Are the Defenders renowned for anything (like Ford and Oil Leaks?)
Sorry for the million and one questions. It's a big move to go from what i've got to a completely difference vehicle.
So i should be looking at a 2000 model and up right? What is the major difference between the 2000 model and previous ones?
How much can i expect to pay for a chip upgrade and intercooler? Is there a package that you can buy at all?
With 150kw and 400nm i will be more than satisfied.
Also...how much would i need to spend to get some 33's under the rover?
What is the stock gear ratio? And is the turbo upgradable for more power?
What should i look out for when buying a Defender 110? Are the Defenders renowned for anything (like Ford and Oil Leaks?)
Sorry for the million and one questions. It's a big move to go from what i've got to a completely difference vehicle.
stock ratios are 3.54:1
you can fit 255/85/16s without suspension mods that equates to 33.4
BFG/MTs.
loads of info on mods including a 2.8 TD5 on http://www.LR4x4.com
have a look in the members vehicle section
turbo upgrades aren't really required for extra power.
bigger intercooler and a straight through centre exhaust will provide a decent increase.
you can fit 255/85/16s without suspension mods that equates to 33.4
BFG/MTs.
loads of info on mods including a 2.8 TD5 on http://www.LR4x4.com
have a look in the members vehicle section
turbo upgrades aren't really required for extra power.
bigger intercooler and a straight through centre exhaust will provide a decent increase.
Defender 90 Modified
Defender 110XS Standard
[url=http://www.lr4x4.com]lr4x4.com[/url]
Defender 110XS Standard
[url=http://www.lr4x4.com]lr4x4.com[/url]
They come with 33s from factory (750X16 is close to 33) but wack a 2 inch lift in one without any dramas. if you go for wider tyres, i recomend reinforcing the steering lincages (graham cooper and davis landies and many others have these on the shelf). The hardest thing is to find some 15X8s or 15x10s for the 33s as no one makes/imports them in Oz. budget for 7-800 bucks for some custom jobbies, or cut and reweld the centers on some 15x7s (they scrape like a bitch with standard offset 15x7 and 33X12.5s).
The other thing about owning a traditional shape landrover is you have to wave at other similar drivers. (ITS A LANDROVER THING YOU WOULDNT UNDERSTAND
)
Good luck
Andrew
The other thing about owning a traditional shape landrover is you have to wave at other similar drivers. (ITS A LANDROVER THING YOU WOULDNT UNDERSTAND
)Good luck
Andrew
I won't go anything over 33x10.5 anyway so i don't think i will bother much about getting another set of rims.Mate...I got 37s under mine with no lift at all. 
Then I did a 4" just to be sure.
The hardest thing about tyres is trying to find 16x8 rims if you keep the OEM tyre size. Otherwise, go with a 15x8 rims with a 80-100mm backspacing and you will be laughing. 2" lift will give you 35" tyres no problem.
The gearing in them is mega low, so there are no real issues with changing centres. I run 37s on 3.54 diffs and all standard gear - except for the suspension and tailshaft. When/if it breaks axels/cvs whatever, I will replace them then.
If you get a TD5, you can get it from 90 to 150kw with the chip upgrade $900 and a 3"mandrel exhaust $500 from the back of the turbo...no mufflers needed. And this will give you one angry Fender.
Add another g and you can have it closer to 200kw with a custom intercooler.
There is so much you can do and the best part is seeing the looks on the faces of the jappers when you walk up a hill that they have to throw it at.
Micka
Then I did a 4" just to be sure.
The hardest thing about tyres is trying to find 16x8 rims if you keep the OEM tyre size. Otherwise, go with a 15x8 rims with a 80-100mm backspacing and you will be laughing. 2" lift will give you 35" tyres no problem.
The gearing in them is mega low, so there are no real issues with changing centres. I run 37s on 3.54 diffs and all standard gear - except for the suspension and tailshaft. When/if it breaks axels/cvs whatever, I will replace them then.
If you get a TD5, you can get it from 90 to 150kw with the chip upgrade $900 and a 3"mandrel exhaust $500 from the back of the turbo...no mufflers needed.
And this will give you one angry Fender.Add another g and you can have it closer to 200kw with a custom intercooler.
There is so much you can do and the best part is seeing the looks on the faces of the jappers when you walk up a hill that they have to throw it at.
Micka
Dude...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... search.php
Heaps of info in the Rover section.
Also have a look at www.scorpionracing.co.uk and then build the stuff you want yourself
Micka
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... search.php
Heaps of info in the Rover section.
Also have a look at www.scorpionracing.co.uk and then build the stuff you want yourself
Micka
Well i finally got to take a Defender TD5 for a test drive yesterday and i must say that i was rather impressed by the way it drivers. Although i can see myself doing the chip, exhausts & intercooler mod VERY soon after purchase.
Is it possible to move the driver seat any further back? The english must be a population of midgets coz i could not fit in to the car properly. When i was turning i had to use 1 hand as my right elbow was hitting the bloody door all the time. I know this can be fixed if i could move the seat another 4 inches back.
Appart from that....it's a car that would DEFINITELY suit my purposes.
Is it possible to move the driver seat any further back? The english must be a population of midgets coz i could not fit in to the car properly. When i was turning i had to use 1 hand as my right elbow was hitting the bloody door all the time. I know this can be fixed if i could move the seat another 4 inches back.
Appart from that....it's a car that would DEFINITELY suit my purposes.
CrazyNuts wrote:Well i finally got to take a Defender TD5 for a test drive yesterday and i must say that i was rather impressed by the way it drivers. Although i can see myself doing the chip, exhausts & intercooler mod VERY soon after purchase.
Is it possible to move the driver seat any further back? The english must be a population of midgets coz i could not fit in to the car properly. When i was turning i had to use 1 hand as my right elbow was hitting the bloody door all the time. I know this can be fixed if i could move the seat another 4 inches back.
Appart from that....it's a car that would DEFINITELY suit my purposes.
Welcome to the world of the Defender
see that changing face...that's what you're gonna have too. I started out loving mine...then I hated it with a passion. I would beg for a truck to run into it so that I could buy something else.
Then after a few trips off-road, and seeing how much fuel other guys where using, I started to like it again.
Then I put in a 4" lift, did the 3" exhaust, the chip and 37" rubber
I'm keeping this one for a long time.
You will get used to the seat...and the handbrake...and the blinkers...and the HUGE turning circle...and the cabin noise (kind of a moot point with the chip and zorst
)...and the shite you cop from the japper boys.You will also get used to the knowing smile from the other fender boys...the amazing fuel economy - 700kms to a standard tank...the brilliant off-road perfomance - even as a stocko...the superior driving position...the fully house out floor...the seats that have you feeling great after sitting on them for 6 hours driving...the massive cargo area - a single mattress fits perfectly between the wheel arches and the rear seats folded forward...the massive gain in power you will get for less than $1500.
You will love it...then hate it...then love it all over again.
BTW...once you own a LR it is all over for you.
Micka
On a wagon it is possible to relocate the seat further back on the seatbox easily.CrazyNuts wrote: Is it possible to move the driver seat any further back?
When I bought my 110 the previous owner had made up a spacer to move the drivers seat 2" back on the seat box and 1" higher. The extra legroom is good (I am 6'3"), but the extra height means it is harder to see the high traffic lights when you are stopped at them.
Also the spacers are made out of wood and painted black!!! God knows how many roadworthy inspectors (truck was from NSW) have missed them. They will be replaced with thinner alloy spacers and bolts that go straight through soon (either that or I will replace the seats entirely).
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
At least the coil springs make it better than the old series rovers... Go over a bump with your head out the window in a series rover, especially while reversing, and you sure as hell won't be sticking your head so far out the window again.forget the forward/back possie what about the turn left and smack head on doorframe trick !??!
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
You just need to remember to lean into the cornerGordo wrote:forget the forward/back possie what about the turn left and smack head on doorframe trick !??!
I have seen some landies with a padded pad attached to the inside of the B pillar.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I am in the process of moving the seat over a little as there is so much space between the seat and centre cubby box.
Once you go defender I'll doubt if you'll go back, once you get used to the few compromises and see how good they are off road.
Richard
1994 300TDi 90 for trials,
1995 300TDi 90 for winch challenges, ( under construction )
2005 TD5 110 station wagon. ( My practical everyday car )
I love 'em
Once you go defender I'll doubt if you'll go back, once you get used to the few compromises and see how good they are off road.
Richard
1994 300TDi 90 for trials,
1995 300TDi 90 for winch challenges, ( under construction )
2005 TD5 110 station wagon. ( My practical everyday car )
I love 'em
130's are surprisingly capable and manouverable offroad, once you have disconnected the rear swaybar and removed the inner coils from the rear. There are plenty of times when the extra wheelbase is a big advantage when climbing.Gordo wrote:
Will have to recommend to a mate with a 130 cruise liner.
Every time he turns it we have to shout Stand by to come about !!
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests