SPOA & bodylift

[Big Red Toy]

ok, for those of you with spring overs would it be ok to have 2" bodylift???

Now i know screwy had a 3" bodylift & removed it cos was too high, but has he now changed the height in his springs?

Also that kingy was thinking about putting in a bodylift at some stage, saw it somewhere

So would it be ok??? i will probably be running the 36" swampers for good i guess, although maybe bigger one day

The reason its crossed my ming is that i either have to cut the guards to fit my new 35" muds on or i do a 2" bodylift & beable to run the factory flares which look allot nicer than rubber shitty ones

So yeah after opinions

cheers
Andrew

[DR Frankenstine]

Mine has a 2" body lift with the SPOA and is way stable enough. Though I still had to cut my guards to clear under full flex with 35's on.
These fellas who recon they dont rub with 35's mustn't be getting any flex.
This photo with the front wheel compressed into the guard has 25mm clearance and thats with 50mm cut out of the back of the guard.

[DR Frankenstine]

Oh yea I have factory steel flares. I just stretched them open a bit.

[Big Red Toy]

yeah i was just looking at that & wondering, cool so thats one for ok one bodylift
cheers

[Guy]

yeah i was just looking at that & wondering, cool so thats one for ok one bodylift
cheers

The lower the better ... if it gets in the way ... cut it off ...
If your fowling the firewall a bit, move the axle forward..

[MARKx4]

I had a 3" body lift on mine with fliped rims and didnt like it. I took it out and it is heaps better, and with springs i ran my 2 year old 2" springs and i took springs our of them. IMHO with a soa keep it as low as possible, because it is still high enough.

[Big Red Toy]

so maybe chuck in a bodylift & pull it out when spoa is done might be the go

[Screwy]

Andrew,

Ideally id depends massively on what you intend on doing with the car and what sort of driving gets done with it.

When i did my spring over with the minumal spring lift and 2 inch body lift the top of the tailgate was level with the top of my nose and im 6 foot 1.

I put a 3 inch in it to clear the 38s.... but was young, stupid and inexperianced. I really should of cut the guards.... but too scared to pull the grinder out like most people.

You want enough ground clearance to clear most obsticles but at the same time keep her as low and as wide as possible. GQs are 6 inches wid than MQ and the same body width. they are so much more stable offroad its rediculous...

The best thing i did was take that body lift out, and then put flipped rims on to increase width, as now she is so much more stable and as the body lift is out, the chassis and diff hieghts dont change so i still clear most obstacles and she will handle side angles far more now then before, she was too tall and too thin.

I also have a 5 inch guard cut and a high tray and the 38s clear by more than enough.....

Guard cut is definatly what you want if you definatly intend on SOA. if your still not sure if you want SOA then put the lift in and take it out after SOA.

Screwy

[V8Patrol]

Thought about it

Got 2" blocks sitting here

running steel flares with 35"s

and I only just rub by a poofteenth on the rear wheel arch at the very front edge of the flares

yet with the fibreglass flares the tyres didnt rub at all.


And the 2" blocks are still sitting in the loft


Most ppl will SOA a rig to get the ground clearance back that saggy springs have deminished over the years, When the SOA is done the saggy paks dont actually lift the rigs that high when compared to a SOA on new springs....... nodoubt you've read how myself and others have had to add or remove leaves in order to gain the desired height / flex / ride / handling. Jeff spent hours trying out various combinations of leaf mixes in his original paks and even other paks from other vehicles, untill he bit the bullet and got a good set which is what he's still running, I ran a new set of 2' lifted heavy duty paks ( towing pak ) and then removed 3 leaves from them each to get the height and handling I was looking for, Rossco ( not on this board ) has added a second saggy pak to his existing pak so its basically a doubled up pak and although its limited in flex it has a great handling charastics

Most ppl however do an SOA instead of just fitting new paks and in this situation the 35s do rub because the "lift" as such hasnt pushed the tyres far enough away from the guards, next step is then to lift the body away with a 2" lift so they dont scrape.

I generally aim to get the bottom edge of the chassis rail level with the top face of the 35" tyre in the rear wheel arch, if however the top face of the tyre is level with the top edge of the chassis rail, then the tyres do rub..... With a load on and the rear tyre moves up from being level with the bottom chassis rail say an inch then the tyres just rub ( poofteenth thing again on the flares ).

There is a large variation in factory and aftermarket spring paks availible from 3 leafpaks right through to 9 leaf paks and every combination inbetween also exists.... from here its a question more of what paks you have to SOA with and what paks would better suit the SOA that you want ????

Kingy

p/s
I run the 2" lifted heavy duty towing pak set and it came with a 9 leaf rear and an 8 leaf front.... I removed 3 leaves from the front and 4 from the rear paks and after 2 years the paks sagged by 1 inch so I added back one leaf to each pak...... mind you she does get an absolute flogging so I expected the paks to soften up and droop a tad but I expected it to happen alot sooner than it did