Which Disco for me ??????????????

[Utemad]

Hi all,

Just test drove a 1997 300Tdi Disco today with 135k. The clutch in it was friggin heavy! Are they all like that? In comparison when I got back into my petrol Rodeo I couldn't drive it properly as the clutch was so light I literally couldn't feel it. Felt like a goof trying to move off from the lights when I have owned the Rodeo for 5 years.

Also I had to rev it to 3000rpm before I changed gear to get reasonably smooth changes and stay on boost when going into the next gear. Is that normal? Felt like I was flogging the guts out of it just to get moving.

Also how hard is it to get acces to the timing belt? It's easy as in my Rodeo but it looks like a one day job just to get to the belt in a 300Tdi. Not good if it needs changing as often as 70k or so.

This was my first test drive. Other than the motor and the fact I felt like I was looking through the headlining instead of the windscreen (6ft2in) I quite liked it. Will be test driving a few more this week to see what engine/gearbox combo I should go for. So be prepared for a few more questions. Although I have searched here and AULRO extensively the last month or so.

Thanks.

[RangingRover]

Timing belt is pretty easy to do. drop fan and belts off, take fan shroud and radiator hoses off, lift the aircon compressor out the way (from memory), then its a matter of removing balancer and front case, there it is. Can be done in about 4 - 5 hours with practice.

Boostwise, they do respond to a bit of revving to get moving, i know TD5s are on full boost at 2500, but I think Tdis are a bit higher perhaps?

Dunno about clutch, thats something you'll have to work out against other vehicles, since I haven't driven a Rodeo.

[Utemad]

Thanks for the info. I will drive an auto Tdi and various V8s next week. I imagine an auto would be a much smoother proposition for a car that needs to stay on boost to have any go. I'll go and put my foot on a few Tdi clutchs to get a feel for them later as well. No need to drive them to see how heavy they are.

As for speed and aceleration I only drove it up to 70km/h (Beaudesert Rd for you Brisbanites) but it didn't seem much slower than my 4cyl petrol Rodeo with 31s once the turbo was spinning. Real slug off the mark though. I found I was changing into 2nd too quick to start with which didn't help. Would hate to tow anything with it with lots of stop starts.

[justinC]

utemad,

The clutch on the disco should be only a little heavier than the japper, a really stiff clutch in a Tdi means that the pivot ball and fork have no lube left, and if the clutch has done around 150,000km, then budget on fitting a new one soon. DO NOT use anything other than genuine, and replace the fork and spigot bush every time. Ring All 4X4 spares on (02) 49571117 and get a price from them for genuine Valeo / Borg and Beck kit. Around $690.00 including fork, spigot and freight I think.(The Defender actually runs a tougher clutch pressure plate, and this is the one they will supply you.)

The bottom end boost etc can be modified really easily, and I suggest you do it after the timing belt is fitted, as the slackness of a worn belt will affect the fuel pump and valve timing slightly, making it pointless to try and performance tune the engine.

Do a tappett adjustment at the same time, .203mm inlet and exhaust, set cold or hot. This can be the single most important power increase for a Tdi if they are loose. This could be the case, as I usually adjust them at 10,000 km service intervals and still find the odd loose one. If they are REALLY loose, then replace all of the valve stem caps, as these get hammered to death by loose rockers. They are cheap. I think less than $3 each.

Finally, you can expect 28 + MPG if the engine is in good nick and set up right.
MOST importantly, check for blowby from the filler cap at idle AFTER a hot long drive. This is very important as none can be evident until the engine is hot, and if excessive will mean a rebuild.
Excellent engines, and will eat a Rodeo on hills and use less fuel doing it!!
Enjoy
JC

[justinC]

I forgot to mention, there is one I know that is for sale in Traralgon Vic, had a new clutch etc recently, 2.5" exhaust, alloys, bull bar, good 265/70/16 tyres, new timing belt, power upgrade, etc etc. Phone Dazza on (03) 5176 0845
Was a customer of mine then moved to VIC.
Nice guy and loves his Disco.

JC

[Utemad]

Thanks for the info.

I have no intention of buying this one though. Other than the He-Man clutch they want $20k for it. I have seen much better for less. I just want to drive one of each engine/transmission combination to see which I like the best. I assumed there was something wrong with the clutch as it was really really heavy. Although my brother does tell me he has driven cars with heavier clutchs than my Rodeo

I tried to get that one into low range etc too. It worked once it was in but it was a bloody struggle to get it in and out. Although I have read about how to adjust/lube that.

I am looking forward to test driving some more next week I now have more things to look for. As I am new to LandRovers I plan on looking at heaps so I know the issues first hand when I finally have to give a thorough check over of the one I intend to buy. Anyone know of a good LandRover place in Brisbane to take a Disco for a pre-purchase inspection?

[Utemad]

Back again.

I just drove a 1995 (I think) 3.9 auto SE. It was awesome. So smooth. Not a real power house but I wasn't expecting it to be from reading others opinions here. However it was so smooth and had heaps more power than the Tdi or my Rodeo. This one was in excellent condition and was stock except for bullbar, towbar and alarm. They wanted $14k for it.

My biggest question I have after driving this fantastic machine is that when I put it in low range with the CDL unlocked the gear changes went from super smooth (high range) to a real THUD. I asked the salesman about it and he admitted he new jack about Landrovers. He was worried I was driving it with it in low locked but I explained to him that Discos have a low unlock position (don't think he believed me ) Is this normal? I wouldn't have thought so.

Also the exhaust was a single system that ran down the left hand side. The drivers side pipe came over to meet the passenger side making a 90 degree bend up front somewhere and when it ran across the car at 180 degrees to the rest of the pipe before rejoining the main pipe it looked highly susceptible to being torn off. Does it actually get torn off? What is the usual exhaust configuration for these from an aftermarket viewpoint?

Thanks all. I reckon it will be v8 auto for me but there are still two combinations to test drive yet