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Beefing up air con
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Beefing up air con
I like it COLD inside my car... what options are there for improving air con performance in my LWB GQ without forking out too much money?
Anyone know much about this side of things?
Jason
Anyone know much about this side of things?
Jason
This is not legal advice.
Banned
WTF ?HJ60_HEATHUS wrote:The freon used in consumer aircons is only a lower grade kind of stuff. see if you can find someone that services industrial refrigerators/freezers. they can hook you up with the good stuff
automotive gas is R134a and most commercial/indoor air con runs on R22
My best advice is that if it is working poorly have it stripped down, all the rubber lines replaced and re-crimped, new o rings, and put a really large condensor. Make sure they put plenty of air con oil in the system - makes it very simple to detect leaks and helps the system out.
Measure the vent temperature with a air con themometer and see what the temp is, mine was about 6 degrees at the vent and close to 4 at the evaoprator - this will give you a good idea on what is going on.
Tom
Some cars aircon just suck. My Rodeo will make my knuckles numb if I don't adjust the vents away from the steering wheel and it is 8 years old. Whereas our F250s at work don't know the meaning of cold. It is like they forgot to install the aircon. This is from brand new This is in Brisbane.
I think your best bet would be to check the temp at the vents to find out if it is either not coming out cold enough or if you need to insulate the car more (tinted windows etc). Should be able to tell by holding your hand in front of it for a rough guess.
One way to tell if you could do with a better condensor fan is does your aircon get better on the hway? As this is what happens in our F250s. Better air flow through the condensor gives better aircon cooling on those oversized utes. Still crap but better.
I think your best bet would be to check the temp at the vents to find out if it is either not coming out cold enough or if you need to insulate the car more (tinted windows etc). Should be able to tell by holding your hand in front of it for a rough guess.
One way to tell if you could do with a better condensor fan is does your aircon get better on the hway? As this is what happens in our F250s. Better air flow through the condensor gives better aircon cooling on those oversized utes. Still crap but better.
The other thing I did in the two rangie I had was to insulate the floor a heap better, I ended up buying 4 or 5 cheaper windscreen reflective covers and two rolls of self adheasive bonnet covers/blankets and took the whole interior out of the car.
I then make a mat out of these - relective covers first face down and then then blankets cut up over the top - made a really big difference to the heat rising through the floor. This would probably only make a big difference in older cars - the newer vehicles have very good insulation IMO.
Tom
I then make a mat out of these - relective covers first face down and then then blankets cut up over the top - made a really big difference to the heat rising through the floor. This would probably only make a big difference in older cars - the newer vehicles have very good insulation IMO.
Tom
dual circuit ac. i know top line pajero's and crusiers have it, never looked at a ti patrol. might be worth looking into.
edit, speak to haultec its their trade. get a big truck farkker that takes up half the cabin
edit, speak to haultec its their trade. get a big truck farkker that takes up half the cabin
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
as opposed to perspex across your cab divider.. just put up a cotton flag of your chosen specifications.. it does the same job but wont add heat like perspex does when the car is locked up in the heat for a few hours.
you dont really need to stop the air flow to the enire car.. just slow it down so that it cools up the front first
you dont really need to stop the air flow to the enire car.. just slow it down so that it cools up the front first
Its ok to eat fish.. cause they dont have any feelings
Awesome info from everyone... I know the LWB aircon isn't up to full power because it BLOWS just as hard as my SWB, but it doesn't blow as COLD in the same conditions, most noticeable when it's hot outside.meiamaro wrote:Had same prob when i bought my lwb GQ.
took it to a/c people and,
evapoator was cloged(common problem) now clean.
a/c system serviced/re-gas ect.
had windows tinted.
now have to turn vents away,much better.
and 'm in FNQ.
Cheers IAN.
So I will take it to an AC guy and ask him to make it as good as it can be...
Thanks.
Jason
This is not legal advice.
Has anybody played with the thermostat??? I had a cordia turbo many moons ago that had a buggered thermostat controlling when the compressor kicked in and out. Basically the compressor ran all the time. After 15 min, I had to turn it off because it got too cold. It was so cold that the air vents would ice over. Was strange when outside temp was 35c and inside you could see every breath being exhaled.
FJ62 Crusier GM V8 Diesel Lockers 33 MTs/35 117 extremes
Macarthur District 4WD Club http://www.macarthur4wdclub.com.au
Macarthur District 4WD Club http://www.macarthur4wdclub.com.au
WTF...r134a is actually a frig freezer gasRaginRover wrote:WTF ?HJ60_HEATHUS wrote:The freon used in consumer aircons is only a lower grade kind of stuff. see if you can find someone that services industrial refrigerators/freezers. they can hook you up with the good stuff
automotive gas is R134a and most commercial/indoor air con runs on R22
My best advice is that if it is working poorly have it stripped down, all the rubber lines replaced and re-crimped, new o rings, and put a really large condensor. Make sure they put plenty of air con oil in the system - makes it very simple to detect leaks and helps the system out.
Measure the vent temperature with a air con themometer and see what the temp is, mine was about 6 degrees at the vent and close to 4 at the evaoprator - this will give you a good idea on what is going on.
Tom
r22 is a domestic gas for air con's.different properties.
it can be retro fitted to run on a r134a system but the seperator has to be changed.
most new cars are r134a because of CFC's and it's in everything now.
my advice witch is wat i did is if it is a r12 system get SP34E put in it.it is a mineral based oil gas witch the comm loves and doesn't work as hard and it will drop straight in..
any advice on putting a bigger fan on is a load of crap...if you do that it will over condensate and f*%k the compressor.
only other improvment would be to insulate the discharge line that goes into the fire wall.
pic's an vids here
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
Can you explain how to tell what system is installed in a vehicle?suzy wrote: my advice witch is wat i did is if it is a r12 system get SP34E put in it.it is a mineral based oil gas witch the comm loves and doesn't work as hard and it will drop straight in..
FJ62 Crusier GM V8 Diesel Lockers 33 MTs/35 117 extremes
Macarthur District 4WD Club http://www.macarthur4wdclub.com.au
Macarthur District 4WD Club http://www.macarthur4wdclub.com.au
The sticker on the radiator support panelNev62 wrote:Can you explain how to tell what system is installed in a vehicle?suzy wrote: my advice witch is wat i did is if it is a r12 system get SP34E put in it.it is a mineral based oil gas witch the comm loves and doesn't work as hard and it will drop straight in..
Nev62 wrote:Has anybody played with the thermostat??? I had a cordia turbo many moons ago that had a buggered thermostat controlling when the compressor kicked in and out. Basically the compressor ran all the time. After 15 min, I had to turn it off because it got too cold. It was so cold that the air vents would ice over. Was strange when outside temp was 35c and inside you could see every breath being exhaled.
HotFourOk wrote:Fiddling with the thermostat can also make a difference...
My dads VL commodore's thermostat stuffed up on the coldest setting... and it blew ice particles out of the main air vents... frickin cold as!! The temp out of that used to be around 0 deg. Sometimes even minus a couple.
should be a sticker on the seperator or on a sticker on the inside of the door.where the interior light switch is..Nev62 wrote:Can you explain how to tell what system is installed in a vehicle?suzy wrote: my advice witch is wat i did is if it is a r12 system get SP34E put in it.it is a mineral based oil gas witch the comm loves and doesn't work as hard and it will drop straight in..
other than that you would have to look up the year off the car and make sure it is origanal..
pic's an vids here
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
OMG...if u do this it could whats called (iceup)..that means that the gas if it is to cold it will not evaporate in the evaorater and be sent to the compressor as a liquid and it will hydro look the compressor...so maybe not a good idea..HotFourOk wrote:Nev62 wrote:Has anybody played with the thermostat??? I had a cordia turbo many moons ago that had a buggered thermostat controlling when the compressor kicked in and out. Basically the compressor ran all the time. After 15 min, I had to turn it off because it got too cold. It was so cold that the air vents would ice over. Was strange when outside temp was 35c and inside you could see every breath being exhaled.HotFourOk wrote:Fiddling with the thermostat can also make a difference...
My dads VL commodore's thermostat stuffed up on the coldest setting... and it blew ice particles out of the main air vents... frickin cold as!! The temp out of that used to be around 0 deg. Sometimes even minus a couple.
if u want cool air just get it seviced and clean the coil and make sure it's alright..
to much gas is not good...it will cause iceup...
not enough gas will cause it to run at a low pressure and not to it's full potential..
a dirty condensor or evaporater will restrict air flow causing the aircon to workharder.
pic's an vids here
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
the reason why they use perspex is because its clear so you can see whats behind youhappygutz wrote:as opposed to perspex across your cab divider.. just put up a cotton flag of your chosen specifications.. it does the same job but wont add heat like perspex does when the car is locked up in the heat for a few hours.
you dont really need to stop the air flow to the enire car.. just slow it down so that it cools up the front first
Don't forget that it takes more to cool down a LWB than SWB as you are trying to cool a larger volume.chimpboy wrote:Awesome info from everyone... I know the LWB aircon isn't up to full power because it BLOWS just as hard as my SWB, but it doesn't blow as COLD in the same conditions, most noticeable when it's hot outside.meiamaro wrote:Had same prob when i bought my lwb GQ.
took it to a/c people and,
evapoator was cloged(common problem) now clean.
a/c system serviced/re-gas ect.
had windows tinted.
now have to turn vents away,much better.
and 'm in FNQ.
Cheers IAN.
So I will take it to an AC guy and ask him to make it as good as it can be...
Thanks.
Jason
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I had my gasses wrong, my mistake - If the other poster had outlined what gases he was talking about then it would have made more sense.suzy wrote:
WTF...r134a is actually a frig freezer gas
r22 is a domestic gas for air con's.different properties.
it can be retro fitted to run on a r134a system but the seperator has to be changed.
so are you saying that this can be done on an r134a system legally with no modifications or only on an r12 system ?suzy wrote: my advice witch is wat i did is if it is a r12 system get SP34E put in it.it is a mineral based oil gas witch the comm loves and doesn't work as hard and it will drop straight in..
I never mentioned the fan, I mentioned perhaps fitting a larger condensor might help - I should have elaborated as another poster did and say that if he noticed improved air con on highway runs then the condensor could be an issuesuzy wrote: any advice on putting a bigger fan on is a load of crap...if you do that it will over condensate and f*%k the compressor.
Just on this - the discharge line would be hot - your insualtion here is to reduce heat in the cab yes? Would it be of benefit to insulate the charged line from the compressor as well ?suzy wrote: only other improvment would be to insulate the discharge line that goes into the fire wall.
Thanks for the info
Tom
an r12 system can have sp34e dropped straight in legally providing that whats left of the old r12 is reclaimed by a vac unit and disposed off according to aus standards.so are you saying that this can be done on an r134a system legally with no modifications or only on an r12 system ?
to get r134a in an r12 system you have to change the seperator and a couple of other little things.
i didn't mean to direct that comment to your post i was replying to the other.....but i don't think a bigger condensor would help as one of the main principals of refrigeration is gas pressure and temperture and most car a/c's are regassed by a dail gauge that measures the weight of the gas and if theres a bigger condensor you would have to work out the gas for that system...but not impossible...I never mentioned the fan, I mentioned perhaps fitting a larger condensor might help - I should have elaborated as another poster did and say that if he noticed improved air con on highway runs then the condensor could be an issue
the charge line should be insulated but in my car the lines go under the carpet a bit and you can feel them..Just on this - the discharge line would be hot - your insualtion here is to reduce heat in the cab yes? Would it be of benefit to insulate the charged line from the compressor as well ?
If you want to check and see if it's all working
Here's a chart that may help you out. Sometimes you can have a combination of problems and some problems appear different on a fixed metering device versus a TXV but this is a pretty good reference.
LOW ON CHARGE
head low
suction low
compressor amps low
superheat high
subcooling low
delta temp low
OVERCHARGE
head high
suction high
compressor amps high
superheat low
subcooling high
delta temp high
POOR EVAPORATOR
head normal or low
suction low
compressor amps normal or low
superheat low
subcooling normal or low
delta temp high
POOR CONDENSER
head high
suction high
compressor amps high
superheat high
subcooling low
delta temp low
RESTRICTION (liquid side)
head normal or low
suction low
compressor amps low
superheat high
subcooling high
delta temp low
BAD VALVES
head low
suction high
compressor amps low
superheat high
subcooling low
delta temp low
I pulled this from memory real fast so I hope I didn't mess it up too bad. I'm sure someone will correct me if I've got a mistake.
pic's an vids here
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
http://imageevent.com/evlhilux/mundaringvideo
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