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NT switch
NT switch
hay I just been thinking latly since i got a NT i want to make my zook alittle wider but i dont want lux diffs so i was wondering is it possible to switch NT diffs with WT diffs would it just bolt in? or is there a million things to change
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
There are a couple of ways to do it, one is to get the later mdel diffs (inc axles?) and chop off the spring mounts and weld them back on further inboard to line them up with the nt spring mounts (which are under the chassis as opposed to being outboard) - this topic has been covered quite extensively before however, so just search some of the previous threads... (someone was going to say it...)
Nick
Nick
yeah i was reading one on here when my F*@King computer crashed now i cant find it took me an hour to find that oneone is to get the later mdel diffs (inc axles?) and chop off the spring mounts and weld them back on further inboard to line them up with the nt spring mounts (which are under the chassis as opposed to being outboard)
what do you mean nick the WT zooks have outboard... don't the spring sit under the chassie ...
if i have to move the spring mounts i can see it most likly wont be allowed in queensland
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
ofr57,
The wide track diffs are going to increase the track by over 25mm, which is the point of the exercise anyway, but in Queensland 25mm is all you are allowed, not sure whether you can get it engineered I would imagine since this is stand zook equip. you might be OK. The spring perches would be the least of the concerns.
Greg
The wide track diffs are going to increase the track by over 25mm, which is the point of the exercise anyway, but in Queensland 25mm is all you are allowed, not sure whether you can get it engineered I would imagine since this is stand zook equip. you might be OK. The spring perches would be the least of the concerns.
Greg
from my understanding (I've never done it, so don't know for sure) the later model (wt) sierras has springs that were mounted further out (I suppose to increase stability??), so for a nt to wt conversion, you have to cut the spring mounts off the later model diffs and move them further inboard to line up on the nt chassis.
The other option i suppose would be to get a complete wt chassis and swap your body over...
Like I said, I've never done it, however if I was going to, this is what i would be doing (the first option). Hope that helps...
Nick
edit:
Try here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ight=nt+wt
The other option i suppose would be to get a complete wt chassis and swap your body over...
Like I said, I've never done it, however if I was going to, this is what i would be doing (the first option). Hope that helps...
Nick
edit:
Try here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ight=nt+wt
I think that if widetrack flared were fitted at the same time as the axles, no one (except for a suzuki trainspotter) would ever know what had been done. do the right thing and don't exaggerate the WT look by fitting offset rims and leaving the NT flares on and it will be sweet.
The underslung springs with the WT axles are the way you want to go. NT's with WT axles flex better than WT's and have more tyre clearance at the spring. - the axle exerts more leverage on the spring lowering the cars roll stiffness when articulated. On road it will behave just like a NT with a lower centre of gravity. Some people have expressed that this makes the car feel like it rolls more, but I think t his is primarily due to the car feeling more stable and weight transferring onto the outside tyre less. The car will certainly not roll more unless you corner harder because of the more stable feel.
three of the spring pad relocations are easy, just make sure that your work is accurate and looks clean. The harder one is the RHF. To do this properly, you will need to cut the spring pad and the U bolt guide that sits over your diff/axletube on that side off of your NT axles and fit that in the right spot. You will also need to use the U bolt off the NT as it is longer.
The diff flanges are different- NT's use a small pattern that has 8mm bolts and a WT has a large pattern that takes 10mm bolts. You will really want to swap you NT centres into the WT housings as the NT diffs are 3.9:1 and WT are 3.7:1.
Otherwise they bolt in if you get the axles complete. you might have to do a little bit of work with the rear brake lines, over the years suzuki split the system in different ways, but that should be a case of just swapping some lines and brackets fromt he NT diff. (this will affect the rear only)
With the launch of the WT in 1988, suzuki were responding to the US market hassles re stability and along with increasing the roll stiffness via outboarding the springs, also fitted a much more aggressive sway bar. IMHO it didn't really help anything - it made made the car harder to predict when you got it close to its adhesion limits.
The underslung springs with the WT axles are the way you want to go. NT's with WT axles flex better than WT's and have more tyre clearance at the spring. - the axle exerts more leverage on the spring lowering the cars roll stiffness when articulated. On road it will behave just like a NT with a lower centre of gravity. Some people have expressed that this makes the car feel like it rolls more, but I think t his is primarily due to the car feeling more stable and weight transferring onto the outside tyre less. The car will certainly not roll more unless you corner harder because of the more stable feel.
three of the spring pad relocations are easy, just make sure that your work is accurate and looks clean. The harder one is the RHF. To do this properly, you will need to cut the spring pad and the U bolt guide that sits over your diff/axletube on that side off of your NT axles and fit that in the right spot. You will also need to use the U bolt off the NT as it is longer.
The diff flanges are different- NT's use a small pattern that has 8mm bolts and a WT has a large pattern that takes 10mm bolts. You will really want to swap you NT centres into the WT housings as the NT diffs are 3.9:1 and WT are 3.7:1.
Otherwise they bolt in if you get the axles complete. you might have to do a little bit of work with the rear brake lines, over the years suzuki split the system in different ways, but that should be a case of just swapping some lines and brackets fromt he NT diff. (this will affect the rear only)
With the launch of the WT in 1988, suzuki were responding to the US market hassles re stability and along with increasing the roll stiffness via outboarding the springs, also fitted a much more aggressive sway bar. IMHO it didn't really help anything - it made made the car harder to predict when you got it close to its adhesion limits.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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