rear disc brakes seizing on

[christover1]

My rear brakes have started seizing on.
Will look into master cylinder, as its never been changed or reco'd since I owned it.
I have recently fitted new disc pads to rear, tho I can't see that causing any probs. If I did it right? Tho the need to replace them may have been caused by original problem anyhow?
New pads have been in a week or so, have been on one very muddy trip, and a few hundred k's on road since new pads.
Any ideas greatly appreciated.

christover

[lexi]

Master cylinder is a suspect but why only the back that has probs? Are sliders on rear calipers free? Maybe strip them out first as you might not have to disturb hydraulics. They are basically long bushes and should be cleaned and greased. Fine emery paper helps to get them sliding nice and easy. I use a silicone based grease to keep them free as it`s not affected by the salt we get on our roads here in Scotland. Pistons could be seizing in calipers, maybe time for a strip and a looksee.
Cheers Alex

[Bad JuJu]

Check the self adjust cams in the drums are ok and the wheel cylinder pistons dont have corrosion on the last few mm as both of these can cause sticking.

The cams should have very small serrations on them no gouges, burrs or chunks. One of mine had a burr that was causing similar problems though only on 1 side. 2 seconds with a dremmel was the cure.

The pistons usually clean up with metho and a scotch brite scrubber, don't use steel wool as you WILL have rust from the bits of steel wool getting everywhere.

[christover1]

pintara disc rears no adjustment
I greased and cleaned the sliders, looked very good, and moved freely...tho this may have changed.
there was no sign of rust or damage on the pistons, tho I didn't reco the calipers. $limit :(
will have a look see today

christover

[zooki]

is it both sides or just one? would be strange to seize 2 callipers at once.

did you remove the residule pressure valve from the master cyl when you did the conversion? the pressure combined with free moving slides might be causing the drag, crack a bleed screw and see if there is some pressure build up in the line

[christover1]

is it both sides or just one? would be strange to seize 2 callipers at once.

did you remove the residule pressure valve from the master cyl when you did the conversion? the pressure combined with free moving slides might be causing the drag, crack a bleed screw and see if there is some pressure build up in the line

I did remove the valve from the master, mines a 1.0 litre, a simple rear/front split, nothing fancy.
the discs have been on for ages now, but was surprised pads wore already, tho they were not new, they came off the donor.
the unused handbrake mechanism in the calipers is seized, this may be an issue, am fighting with it now, it involves a course screw cork screw type arrangement.. both sides were seized on, but one side was easy to seperate the pads but one side aint so easy....I guess I'll get a kit or another caliper, but am going to do master anyway, cos its been untouched for over 12 years.

christover

[klrevo]

yeh im with lexy, my only experience with this was ont he wkend, replaced pads, and it seemed that one of the pads had worn down to metal, becuase im assuming that the caliper had shitt stuck on the sliders and once the pads were down far enpoguh the slider didnt want to return. little decline and the car stopped itself just outside my driveway, didnt know what was going on, went to take the wheel to find out, and things were very VERY hot pulled it apart, bit of WD and some fine emery paper and were away, all good now, and fancy new green pads from Ferodo

dean

[christover1]

need both master cylinder and calliper kits, thanks all for advice, then to do the fronts, just in case

christover