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Twin Stick transfer cases

General Tech Talk

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Twin Stick transfer cases

Post by Screwy »

guys,

Just looking into this,
trying to get some info on how to setup an auto / twin stick with good ratios, ill peice it together over time and drop it in at a later date.....

Basically....

Ive got the Turbo pattern 308 ( chev pattern ), so want to run a Turbo 700 non electronic style on the back of it....

then an adapter to a new transfer...

Ive heard some talk about DANA T300 transfers that can be easily changed to twin stick?
whats involved in fitting them up?
can they be rin divorsed style?
or need an adapter to the auto?
what sort of ratios and how strong are they?
what are the worth?

secondly are some of these other cases such as the MP205 if that is correct.... just after info on whats available and what are they worth? how they go up, can they be twin sticked, divorsed or married style etc?

any info on this topic much appreciated.

cheers,

Screwy
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Post by Modified Toy »

some info here on twin stick transfer parts

www.marlincrawler.com
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Post by spazbot »

the dana 300 seems to be a popular case for jeepers, not sure how avail they are in au, i assume AA in the us (marks resell here) make a dana300 to t700 adapter, u can twin stick em and if the 2.62:1 low range u can get a terralow gearset for them and reduce the low range to 4.1:1 (prolly lots of $$ to get one here)



http://www.teraflx.com/ <-terra low gears
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/model_300.htm
http://eshop.advanceadapters.com/commer ... ct_id=1498 <aa 700r to dana 300

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_137.htm
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Post by DamTriton »

A twin stick is possible on the Hilux gear driven case, easy adaptor to a T700. I don't know too much about the "how", but it doesn't seem too difficult. Don't know how strong it would be behind a 350 Chev.

I recently bought a case with twin sticks (H/L and RWD/4WD) and 4.7:1's fitted already.

Try the Toyota guys.
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Post by spazbot »

DAMKIA wrote:A twin stick is possible on the Hilux gear driven case, easy adaptor to a T700. I don't know too much about the "how", but it doesn't seem too difficult. Don't know how strong it would be behind a 350 Chev.

I recently bought a case with twin sticks (H/L and RWD/4WD) and 4.7:1's fitted already.

Try the Toyota guys.
id say screwy is more after a case that will do front digs, so he needs Hi low on one and fwd 4wd rwd/2wd on the other shifter.


other option is screwy get yaself a atlas or stak
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Post by scout392 »

I say the Dana300 is trong enough. Come stock with AMC360ci and IH345ci.

Twin stick transfer cases are all the rage in Denver among the Binder Bunch Members. Although this might seem like a giant leap backwards in technology to the transfer case of old, still, there is a compelling case to be made for the change. It is important to understand that the Scout transfer cases operate quite differently than older twin stick boxes. Early CJ Spicer 18 transfer cases used one shift rod (and one lever) to select among High-Range, Neutral, and Low Range. The second shift rod (and second lever) simply shifted the front axle "in" or "out". In the Scout Dana 20 and Dana 300, however, each shift rod controls one axle: the rod closest to the driver controls the rear driveshaft and axle (High-Neutral-Low); the other controls the front driveshaft and axle (High-Neutral-Low).

By separating the shift levers and overriding the interlock between them (which prevents 2WD low), your transfer case becomes capable of front-wheel-only drive (High or Low), and 2WD low-range rear drive.

We've discovered that especially with Detroit Lockers in the front axles, 2WD-Low allows engine braking on steep descents without causing steering difficulties. Moreover, on off-camber trails where the rear wheels tend to sideslip, front-wheel-only drive can be just the thing to pull a vehicle forward and back up onto the trail.

Start the conversion by removing the Dana 20 or 300 transfer case and disassembling. Mark the front and rear shift rods (part 18 & 19 in fig. 7), since it's easy to mix them up. The first step once the rods are out of the assembly is to weld up the slotted ends along with the retainer holes. Use a lathe to turn the rod ends down smooth once again to the same diameter as the rest of the shaft.

Figure 2 shows the notches that must now be ground, milled or filed into the forward ends of the shift rods. A grinder or file is adequate for the job. The cuts must begin 5/16" back from the front end of the rods. Cut a notch 5/8" long and 5/16" deep (to receive the ends of the new twin shift levers).

The last step before re-assembly is to remove the barrel-shaped interlock plungers ( part #17, Fig.1). These are what prevent Low-Range engagement in a stock case unless the front axle is already engaged. Without removing these, you will not be able to select the full range of combinations. Care must be taken while operating, however, for it is now possible (since both axles are being shifted independently) to select High-range for one axle, and Low-range for the other. Common sense must prevail.

Reassemble using the stock shifter levers from either a Spicer 18 or an older twin-stick Dana 20. These lever sets come in different shapes. Depending on which transmission and main shifter lever you have, you may have to bend the transfer case shift levers in order to clear properly. A stock twin-stick shifter boot completes the installation.

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/fa ... tick_tcase

Eric
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Post by stu »

pm jimmyB,i pretty sure that he has twin stick(ed) his Dana300 and i think he may of also put the 4.1 reduction gearing it it too.
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Post by -Richo- »

marlin are releasing a new toy t case early next year that allows

Stick one
  • front wheel drive
    4 wheel drive
    rear wheel drive
Stick two
  • high range
    neutral
    low range


based on a gear driven lux case
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Post by jimmyb »

Nah Stu, tis a NP205, the Turbo400 I had I turfed. The 300 is a good box though, and with aftermarket gearsets tis a better choice over the NP205. The NP205's final output is somewhere around 2.8:1 I think which is pretty crap, twin sticking it is easy, but dont know about the 300.

At the end of the day, the NP205 is a budget fix until funding finds itself my way for an Atlas2. Consider what you want to do, final ratio and how much work is needed, maybe holding off for Atlas might help?
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Post by Screwy »

how would you go about twin stick on an NP205 and how much are they worth to buy?

im after a reletive budget transfer that i dont need to put rock hoppers in and i can twin stick it...... while being strong on the back of a V8 and auto....

what are your preferences?

screwy
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twin

Post by DR Frankenstine »

I know you can set up a G60 transfer as a divorced unit they are allready twin stick and very low/low.
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Re: twin

Post by Screwy »

DR Frankenstine wrote:I know you can set up a G60 transfer as a divorced unit they are allready twin stick and very low/low.
are you serious?

they are twin stick? from stock?

as in they will go into front wheel drive low range only?

and rear wheel drive low range only, and hi and low 4 and hi 2?
?????

screwy
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Post by Hekta »

I think they have a stick for low/high range, and a stick for 2WD or 4WD.
I don't think you can select front wheel drive.

PS I know where ya can get one from if you want one.
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Re: twin

Post by redzook »

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:
DR Frankenstine wrote:I know you can set up a G60 transfer as a divorced unit they are allready twin stick and very low/low.
are you serious?

they are twin stick? from stock?

as in they will go into front wheel drive low range only?

and rear wheel drive low range only, and hi and low 4 and hi 2?
?????

screwy
just get a divorsed lux tcase
put tcase gears in it
and wheel the piss out of it

why do u need auto and font only?
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Post by Screwy »

Hekta wrote:I think they have a stick for low/high range, and a stick for 2WD or 4WD.
I don't think you can select front wheel drive.

PS I know where ya can get one from if you want one.
i need to be able to adapt one over to front wheel or rear wheel drive....

for front digs, i can rip the rear handbrake on and drive the front end around....

screwy
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Post by spazbot »

do a poormans one like the qldrs and use the rangie box
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Post by redzook »

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:
Hekta wrote:I think they have a stick for low/high range, and a stick for 2WD or 4WD.
I don't think you can select front wheel drive.

PS I know where ya can get one from if you want one.
i need to be able to adapt one over to front wheel or rear wheel drive....

for front digs, i can rip the rear handbrake on and drive the front end around....

screwy
i knew it was for a front dig u stoner :lol:

u reckon u really need it in tufftruck style events?
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Post by Nev62 »

spazbot wrote:do a poormans one like the qldrs and use the rangie box
In the words of the well known qldrs...

"Please Explain"

:D
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Post by Screwy »

redzook wrote:
Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:
Hekta wrote:I think they have a stick for low/high range, and a stick for 2WD or 4WD.
I don't think you can select front wheel drive.

PS I know where ya can get one from if you want one.
i need to be able to adapt one over to front wheel or rear wheel drive....

for front digs, i can rip the rear handbrake on and drive the front end around....

screwy
i knew it was for a front dig u stoner :lol:

u reckon u really need it in tufftruck style events?
This isnt for this rig....

This is doing research for the my next build im starting on the side as we speak...... I will get the componantry 100 percent the way i want it, and then later on when i can afford a car trailer and some room for it to be ill use the same running gear and put it under a buggy frame to save respending the money......

screwy
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Post by bubs »

then if you want everything 100% right, then I would use in this order

1) Atlas 2 or 4 when it comes out :cool: - what more to say
2) Stak - 3 speed t-case damn :cool:
3) D300 - compact and reasonably strong - has a 2.8:1 low range
4) NP205 - big and heavy but strong, low range is only about 2:1, might go well with the mogs
5) LT230 - compact and pretty light, but has a tendency to not actually dig from what I have seen, I dont know that much on these (but have 1 for sale)

The Atlas, Stak, D300 can be had to bolt straight on the T700, the NP205 comes factory behind T400 and T350 autos i dont know what ford autos were used

Ford NP205 is a passenger side drop and can be had as divorced, while chevy & dodge are drivers side drop.

Thats about what I know, some might be wrong :lol:
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Post by Fathillbilly »

have you thought about the T100 remote transfer case from a 720 or MQ.

changing these over to twin stick doesn't look to hard from the nissan schematic. i'll scan them and put them up if interested

http://www.purenissan.com/t-case_gears1.htm

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Post by Screwy »

Fathillbilly wrote:have you thought about the T100 remote transfer case from a 720 or MQ.

changing these over to twin stick doesn't look to hard from the nissan schematic. i'll scan them and put them up if interested

http://www.purenissan.com/t-case_gears1.htm

Stu
MQ transfers technically are good for the divorse reason... BUT they cant have crawler gears and are drivers side drop so hardly worth it...

BUBS.....

Out of all thos transfers is the NP205 the only one with passenger side drop?

if so i could make one of these divorsed behind the auto and have it drop out the passenger side for good use on the MOG diffs?
would this be the go?

screwy
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Post by bubs »

atlas and stak come in passenger side drop to

but the D300 and LT230 are only drivers side drop

there was a guy on ausjeep who had a NP205 divorved from an f-truck for sale a while back, and was in sydney to
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Post by A1 »

Hey Screwy are u wanting this setup so that u can front dig around TREES ......... :lol: instead of tryin to drive through them :?:



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Post by Screwy »

A1MAV wrote:Hey Screwy are u wanting this setup so that u can front dig around TREES ......... :lol: instead of tryin to drive through them :?:



;)
NAH...... BUT TOP IDEA :finger:

I want it so i can be a fully fat 4BE ricer and do front wheel drive burnouts and get the doof doof happening :D :D :D

Seriously though,

Really want a passenger side drop transfer..... and preferably one that in combination with the mog diffs i dont need gearing to run 42s........

on a touch of a budget so want to try as cheap as possible.... dont want to add another 2000 in gearing on the transfer ontop of the adapter to the box unless i have to...

a divorsed one would make things hella easy though....

screwy
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Post by POS »

bubs wrote: LT230 - compact and pretty light, but has a tendency to not actually dig from what I have seen, I dont know that much on these (but have 1 for sale)
Then you havn't seen much, i can dig so it pivots on one rear tyre only all with a Lt230. Theres more to it than just ripping on the brakes.
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Post by redzook »

POS wrote:
bubs wrote: LT230 - compact and pretty light, but has a tendency to not actually dig from what I have seen, I dont know that much on these (but have 1 for sale)
Then you havn't seen much, i can dig so it pivots on one rear tyre only all with a Lt230. Theres more to it than just ripping on the brakes.
got rear engine :lol:


i think sams kecks vit digs pretty well
but he has good rear brakes and they dont turn a bit :cool:
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Post by Surfection »

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote: Seriously though,

Really want a passenger side drop transfer..... and preferably one that in combination with the mog diffs i dont need gearing to run 42s........
With an auto box and mog diffs [which have hub reduction !!!] you won't need transfer gearing to run 42s.
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Post by scout392 »

bubs wrote:then if you want everything 100% right, then I would use in this order

3) D300 - compact and reasonably strong - has a 2.8:1 low range

Thats about what I know, some might be wrong :lol:
Dana300 2.6 low stock

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