Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Slip Yoke Eliminator
Moderator: GUtripper
Slip Yoke Eliminator
Slip yoke Eliminator? Are there ways around having to purchase one? Could someone explain to me what it achieves exactly?
Cheers for any TECH SUPPORT
Thankyou
Cheers for any TECH SUPPORT
Thankyou
why would you want to get around having one is my question
it helps keep your driveline as flat as possible reducing stress on vital parts.(sorry not specific enough but I know what Im trying to say hehe)
the big price up front is worth it if your going over a 2 inch lift.
go to www.ausjeepoffroad.com and do a search. lots of information there about it. alot of for and against stuff to help you make a educated mistake.
it helps keep your driveline as flat as possible reducing stress on vital parts.(sorry not specific enough but I know what Im trying to say hehe)
the big price up front is worth it if your going over a 2 inch lift.
go to www.ausjeepoffroad.com and do a search. lots of information there about it. alot of for and against stuff to help you make a educated mistake.
Its ok to eat fish.. cause they dont have any feelings
Since posting, i been enlightened upon the actual fact behind the conversion. Plus the reason behind jeeps decision to not install the yoke in the prop, but in the tranny.
Reason i dont want one is the cost, if there are simplified options that are as effective? I would like to know....But it seems to be the only way.
35's are the benchmark tyre for Challenge events in the UK. We need to get the TJ up on a set of these.
Its going to get costly...
Reason i dont want one is the cost, if there are simplified options that are as effective? I would like to know....But it seems to be the only way.
35's are the benchmark tyre for Challenge events in the UK. We need to get the TJ up on a set of these.
Its going to get costly...
Mudman,
If the funds are tight look at a Rubicon Express Light duty (also called a cut&tap).
Although not as strong as the heavy duty or the SUper shorties, they still fix the stupid factory design and thus are s SIGNIFICANT step up from stock.....
If the funds are tight look at a Rubicon Express Light duty (also called a cut&tap).
Although not as strong as the heavy duty or the SUper shorties, they still fix the stupid factory design and thus are s SIGNIFICANT step up from stock.....
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
you could do 3.5 inches of coil lift without the SYE. BUT this is ncluding a t-cace spacer kit which will mean the the guts of your car is not raised in proportion to the lift. Then on top of that you can get a 2"body lift for roughly 5.5 inches, also get a 1" motor mount lift to straighten out the driveline. This will clear 35's but with rubbing on flares and posibly on the inner fender wall up front. (bumpstops can be adjusted to fix that)
i reccomend getting the SYE though cause the stock rear output shaft / rear drive shaft setup will not like turning 35's
secondly you start cutting up the panel work.
i reccomend getting the SYE though cause the stock rear output shaft / rear drive shaft setup will not like turning 35's
secondly you start cutting up the panel work.
i don't need no stinking quote for my sig. line!
JB convetions is it.
I have done a few of these kits & like the way it saves on shaft room & gives you a better angle to work with. Here in Alaska we have some rather tall Jeeps on anything from 33's-38's.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
It's easy to play, but hard to learn!
Re: JB convetions is it.
i guess the junk-yard available hi-pinion dana 44/60's help.ODD BALL wrote:I have done a few of these kits & like the way it saves on shaft room & gives you a better angle to work with. Here in Alaska we have some rather tall Jeeps on anything from 33's-38's.
i don't need no stinking quote for my sig. line!
The TJ in the pic is sporting a Ford High Pinion Dana 44 up front & a GM 14 bolt full floater in the rear. Both axles are full width & have been holding up well. I built the front diff with 5.13's & a ARB while the rear diff has 5.13's & a Detroit locker. The rear axle would not be my choice if you like to move fast while on a trip/off-road due to the weight! It's a PIG!stu wrote:i guess the junk-yard available hi-pinion dana 44/60's help.ODD BALL wrote:I have done a few of these kits & like the way it saves on shaft room & gives you a better angle to work with. Here in Alaska we have some rather tall Jeeps on anything from 33's-38's.
Last edited by ODD BALL on Thu Nov 24, 2005 9:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
It's easy to play, but hard to learn!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests