Hi Peoples, fj45. Today I bought all paint, undercoat, and clear coat from auto paint shop to paint it (Im sick of the landcruiser beige). I really dont want to pay a dodgy panel beater over 2g's to paint it, and as it is a knockaround car im not worried if its showroom quality, but I also dont want it looking like it should be sitting in someones lawn at logan (no offence to any loganites on the forum, but im sure you would hear it all the time anyway). I am starting to prep the beast this weekend (sanding all the old crud paint off it). Im using a compressor and gun to apply.
I am just wanting to see if anyone has any advice on painting these vehicles, as I am a first time painter.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
First time painter seeks long time painters advice
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
It's all in the prep of the vehicle, sand quality and rust repair. Also what paints are you using? two-pac paints i find are the best. I'm no expert, but i've painted a few 45's, and when i paint mine next it will be gloss two-pac black (paint which is made of 2 parts - colour + hardener), the last backyard job we did was in the garage, plastic sheets on all walls/floor/roof, and a board with two thermo fans attached over the window as a exhaust fan. Turned out good, like this:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Landcruiser UTE 1996 FZJ75 - SPOA, 35"s,
extended chassis, poor mans extra cab, 4.56 diff gears, Lockright front, chinese air locker rear...
extended chassis, poor mans extra cab, 4.56 diff gears, Lockright front, chinese air locker rear...
It is a two pack metallic dark red. Can you tell me how many layers you did of each undercoat, top coat and clear coat/hardener? And did you sand between each coat? Your paint job looks very impressive.
I'll be doing it in a work shed, so how much protection should i have around the car, you said you had plastic sheets around your paint job, is this a neccessity and if so how would i make the best setup (being that its a huge shed i cant really put plastic over the walls)?
Sorry about all the questions but I know that a good paint job looks good and a bad one looks really bad.
I'll be doing it in a work shed, so how much protection should i have around the car, you said you had plastic sheets around your paint job, is this a neccessity and if so how would i make the best setup (being that its a huge shed i cant really put plastic over the walls)?
Sorry about all the questions but I know that a good paint job looks good and a bad one looks really bad.
Mate, I ve painted a few cars in my shed at home. If it is clean inside ie new steel frame shed clean or if you can clean it inside then you can go without plastic.
This is my regime - I turn off the power to the shed, hose or gurney it out inside hose the floor down, wait till its dry, turn the power back on, put car inside, close roller door, paint away.
if you are under a house or in an old shed the plastic is the way to go
for two pac you need a fan or whirly bird to extract the vapor, my mate uses a setup similar to stackson45 works good.
Id put at least 4 coats of primer, let it dry, rub back with 600 grit on a big block, this is where you get it straight.
remember - any humps bumps or hollows will show up real bad, you have to be a perfectionist in the rubbing.
once you have it straight, one coat of primer 3 or 4 of colour, let it dry
Rub back with 1000 grit, 3 or 4 coats of clear
dont put 2 pac paint on 'wet on wet' let it dry between coats, prob half hour between coats
keep everthing clean, keep hosing dust down
once it has been dry for a week, buff it, it will look great
painting a car is not something that can be done in a weekend, I would take two weeks of work to do it......you can do it in a week but you will work your ass off ( if you do it properly). A quicky will look dodgy guaranteed
Paul
This is my regime - I turn off the power to the shed, hose or gurney it out inside hose the floor down, wait till its dry, turn the power back on, put car inside, close roller door, paint away.
if you are under a house or in an old shed the plastic is the way to go
for two pac you need a fan or whirly bird to extract the vapor, my mate uses a setup similar to stackson45 works good.
Id put at least 4 coats of primer, let it dry, rub back with 600 grit on a big block, this is where you get it straight.
remember - any humps bumps or hollows will show up real bad, you have to be a perfectionist in the rubbing.
once you have it straight, one coat of primer 3 or 4 of colour, let it dry
Rub back with 1000 grit, 3 or 4 coats of clear
dont put 2 pac paint on 'wet on wet' let it dry between coats, prob half hour between coats
keep everthing clean, keep hosing dust down
once it has been dry for a week, buff it, it will look great
painting a car is not something that can be done in a weekend, I would take two weeks of work to do it......you can do it in a week but you will work your ass off ( if you do it properly). A quicky will look dodgy guaranteed
Paul
91 FJ 80 Project on the go - air lockers, 3in lift, super duper 3F, 36" pedes, toyota V8 getting prepped now
Pauwolf is leading you in the right direction - i did 3 or 4 coats of primer, rubbed back with 600 grit (wet) did any final repairs then, more primer over repairs, 600 grit wet, then 4 coats of colour - i found that it took me close to 30 mins to go around the car + plus bonnet on a stand + flares on a stand, so i where i started had already had half an hour to go off, start next coat. Took just under 3 hours to paint it, and extremely red nose-hairs (had a face mask on, but it didn't catch all of it).
Last edited by Stackson45 on Sun Nov 20, 2005 7:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Landcruiser UTE 1996 FZJ75 - SPOA, 35"s,
extended chassis, poor mans extra cab, 4.56 diff gears, Lockright front, chinese air locker rear...
extended chassis, poor mans extra cab, 4.56 diff gears, Lockright front, chinese air locker rear...
Re: First time painter seeks long time painters advice
Funk_off wrote:Hi Peoples, fj45. Today I bought all paint, undercoat, and clear coat from auto paint shop to paint it (Im sick of the landcruiser beige). I really dont want to pay a dodgy panel beater over 2g's to paint it, and as it is a knockaround car im not worried if its showroom quality, but I also dont want it looking like it should be sitting in someones lawn at logan (no offence to any loganites on the forum, but im sure you would hear it all the time anyway). I am starting to prep the beast this weekend (sanding all the old crud paint off it). Im using a compressor and gun to apply.
I am just wanting to see if anyone has any advice on painting these vehicles, as I am a first time painter.
Screw you hippie
, my toy sits out the front of my house and I must say its extremely bling, right down to the headlight wipers. You can even ask the other guys that have been wheeling with me...they are so jealous of my headlight wipers 
. So to cut a long story short, I dont want my 4wd looking like one that has been painted in a shed in brissy. .
On a more serious note, have you thought about hiring a spray booth or is that too exy????
Funk_off wrote:Take it easy Rollsalot, its just a stereotypical joke. Im sure every town in australia has an area that they hang crap on, thats why i said no offence.
How much does a spray booth cost, and for how long can you hire them for?
dont worry about him dude, hes the last bloke that would get upset over anything )you should see what i do to him)........you can hire spray booths for a day at a time but i have no idea what they cost.
Painting
If you do not have the place to paint in you can propably hire a spey booth... Much cleaner than any shed/garage and better venitlation. Less paint in your nostrils, cleaner air supply etc...
Funk_off wrote:Take it easy Rollsalot, its just a stereotypical joke. Im sure every town in australia has an area that they hang crap on, thats why i said no offence.
How much does a spray booth cost, and for how long can you hire them for?
John's paintshed in Hemmant (just on the south side of the gateway bridge) hires his booth out for a $100/day (pretty sure that was it). I have been over there and it looks the goods (good lights etc). Been trying to paint my troopy for months
never done it b4 either....Being that Im going to be spray painting my 4b in a large shed. Being that it is to large to clean all the dust in the shed before i start. Can anyone give me some advice on how to setup a good area for painting in this environment? I was thinking of getting some sort of mobile gazebo and putting plastic sheeting on top of it.
paint
Being that Im going to be spray painting my 4b in a large shed. Being that it is to large to clean all the dust in the shed before i start. Can anyone give me some advice on how to setup a good area for painting in this environment? I was thinking of getting some sort of mobile gazebo and putting plastic sheeting on top of it.
Mate, you are going to have to find something big enough to put the car inside then drape plastic over it and tape it up, my mate tied blue tarps all around his car taped one on top, sealed it all up and it worked allright. The thing to remeber is if it can move dirt will get in. try to anchor it down. keep everything wet to keep dust down.
any frame you use has to be sturdy that it cant blow over.
I honestly think it would be good money spent to get the car rubbed ready to go, then hire a booth for the top coats and clear. Yuo can fix the primer coats if they get dirt or bugs in them but whats in the top coats stays for all the world to see
Paul
any frame you use has to be sturdy that it cant blow over.
I honestly think it would be good money spent to get the car rubbed ready to go, then hire a booth for the top coats and clear. Yuo can fix the primer coats if they get dirt or bugs in them but whats in the top coats stays for all the world to see
Paul
91 FJ 80 Project on the go - air lockers, 3in lift, super duper 3F, 36" pedes, toyota V8 getting prepped now
Hi, I do have a 2 car garage seperate from my house, which seems like it might be a better idea to paint in. It just that im renting and if i get paint on any of the wall my miss's will cut my bits off and feed them too the dog.
Im sure if i buy enough plastic sheeting and cover the wall and roof it will be safe. Has anyone painted in this environment and how did they set it up to stop paint going everywhere. And will I need any heat lamps, or blowers to do so?
Im sure if i buy enough plastic sheeting and cover the wall and roof it will be safe. Has anyone painted in this environment and how did they set it up to stop paint going everywhere. And will I need any heat lamps, or blowers to do so?
I'd put the plastic up as previously discussed, put a board under the roller door with 2 thermo fans attached to provide some extraction and as MY92SURF says a respirator is a must, you will be so high you wont be able to finish painting the car without one, and it WILL kill you
if its a wooden shed just staple your plastic up, if metal you need to hang it from top put something heavy to weigh it down and stop it flapping
Paul
if its a wooden shed just staple your plastic up, if metal you need to hang it from top put something heavy to weigh it down and stop it flapping
Paul
91 FJ 80 Project on the go - air lockers, 3in lift, super duper 3F, 36" pedes, toyota V8 getting prepped now
I rang up a equipment hire business and they quoted $44/day for an air compressor or $176 for the week. I was in supercheap before and saw that they had a compressor on sale for around the $200 range. I am just wondering what size compressor i need to spray paint, and whether it is worth hiring or buying a cheap one? Im sure the supercheap compressor is a "you get what you paid for scenario", but it comes with a warranty and should hold up for at least a week.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests